jjman

For N/A's it is never worth it for a power increase. You have to go full extractors back for that and then that is major $ and overkill for the petty gains you get from an NA. Otherwise, absolutely avoid the turbo designed stuff, go custom and cat-back. -It is new (2nd hand might rust out soon), probably cheaper, designed for N/A, and your desired noise level. You can also get the right sound but have a nice big cannon tip if you are after that look (a big cannon from a turbo designed 'zorst usually wakes the dead on an NA) I had one on mine and it sounded gorgeous. Never droned, wasn't too loud, but had just the right note from idle to redline. I miss that noise to this day and know why many reviewers note that seldom, if ever, do turbo cars sound as good as a sweet N/A.

Obviously- Traction. But there are many better mods to do first to improve traction So my recommendation is based on ur mods- unless ur stock LSD is knackered and you are just single spinning all the time- wait until you have done things like put decent tyres on(and rims for bigger & better tyres), as well as suspension, and even more power into your car before you worry about diffs... Also there are many cons to mechanical diffs such as the noise, and driving in the rain....

decent setup then. im surprised those tyres don't hook up better... I used to have those coilovers in that spec and I found that running the rears at about 10-25% damping was the best. Something about fully soft wasn't goood and I remember the traction not being as good. THat was in an R33 though and only 240rwkw...

what spring rates do you have? ALso any other suspension mods like traction bushes or camber arms?

this was a good squeal

here is a 9.5 rim with 275/35/18 (on the rear only of course being a GTST). 2 things to keep in mind though. Just because a tyre is 275 (or whatever width for that matter) doesn't mean it is exactly. Iv seen 2 255 tyres next to each other and 1 was over 1cm wider than the other. Same goes for sidewall profile. ALso for rim width too from what iv been told. And, really how it looks also depends a bit on how the car sits- e.g. offset in the guards, camber, height.

Black R33 with the cops on it and bonnet popped on Mitchell fwy heading north around cedric st 9pm sat night. Did not look like a good time being had...

Yeah, what MJTru said. Essentially, for a stock turbo the AFC can yield acceptable results but if you are going for a bigger turbo (which means to really do the job right you also are going to change the AFM and injectors- and fuel pump if that isn't already done) then a nistune will probably be your best option for an auto. Perhaps even consider a Toshi tune (search for this).

maybe, maybe not. This has always been the fact with the timing belt noises. You cant say for certain without a bit of testing that it is or isn't a problem. i.e. that it is or isn't just belt noise or noise from incorrect tension.

to give the SAU mechanics a bit more info to go on id recommend you get your phone and make a video of 1: the noise (which can help determine if it is the belt or the idler). 2: take off the cam cover and video yourself manually twisting the belt by hand to show us how much tension is on it. Bottom line is that noises from cam belts are common and most likely nothing to worry about. But if indeed it is too tight, then you need to worry about it...

in WA go for Japwreck or KYP in Welshpool are good for jap and import parts. otherwise have a look thru n call on this list http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/191756-consolidated-workshop-business-listing-thread/

seems like a win overall. But what is going on with this rev drop when you clutch-in? Otherwise what does it idle at generally?

this guy for real? any mods want to consider a ban on this fool?

Ah yes, I just skim read it and assumed he had it too far advanced,hence the knock, but it is indicating 5 degrees retarded isn't it, OP, you are reading the timing marks correctly aren't you? Also using the correct technique to read the timing?. (I.e. not on the cold start map and also using cyl no 1 lead and not the 'timing wire')

another win for knock detection. May well have killed your motor had you driven that long drive like that.

Hahaha, yeah my mate has one. Im quite astonished at what they put down. And honestly the ones at the drag strip scare me (im in WA so all the mining guys love em and throw mad money into their LS's). If its lumpy its usually in the 11's

Must. have. launch. grip. Hate losing to HSV's.

Hey Stao, are you able to work with/ rebuild a turbo like this that has already been highflowed? obviously it will need a new CHRA but are the housings usable for a highflow rebuild by you?

great line Final thought for the OP. Are you sure that your ignition timing is set correctly on the motor vs what you are intending on the Haltech?

Correct me if I am wrong anybody here with more knowledge. But I am thinking that at .75 bar on a 3076 would be needing to use more than a 65% duty cycle on the stock injectors? Otherwise, definitely replace the stock pump before doing anything more. They are incredibly prone to failure or dangerously poor flow on R33's by now. Many a failing or failed stock fuel pump have killed an R33. This may be your problem atm.

good man. you know what you are doing then. this being the case my recommendation would be to find a stock motor with good compression and vitals etc and put that in after a good cooling system cleanout and also some decent head bolts. Its all a lot cheaper than a rebuild too... Stock RB25s are cheap as chips these days. Also mean that if it goes bang you don't have to deal with the heartache of the $ and care that went into a rebuild. otherwise, what manifold are you running?. the stock manifolds are known for their choke tendencies and heat building... Not a good thing for track work.

While of course motorsports does put higher levels of strain on a motor (and the RB25 are never a young motor anymore) Im a little curious how you are now through your 3rd motor. What were the causes of the other failures? Are you limiter bashing a lot? WOT shifting? Is the radiator and fan in good condition (with shroud), is it a track tune (safer tune with more leniency). Can you tell what your knock levels, engine and oil temps were during use? The reason I ask is that perhaps there is an element of mechanical sympathy you are overlooking that might be killing motors a little pre-emptively?

low octane map? is this the same as R&R? (rich and retard)

sure you don't have a very slight head gasket leak? bubbles in the system and a slow loss off coolant...?

get your car up to full operating temp such as after a 20min + drive. leave the car idling, get out and go and listen to the radiator n motor. if you hear bubbling noises- not good. if bubbles are coming out into the overflow bottle, also not the best. But likely that the mechanic just didn't bleed the system well if you say it has been done recently. if so then search SAU how to properly bleed that air from an RB25. yes, its likely you will smell radiator fluid as they would have spilled some doing the fluid change.