DAN00H

Hi Mate I started - mounted the unit and ran the lines, but I got home late last night (and I'm a fussy bastard and want it to look at neat as possible!). I looked in the book and found a diagram of how to hook it up in your car so will bring it with me tomorrow and try to get it scanned here at work. if I can't, I'll do my best to tell you what goes where. PM me your email details. Cheers

I'd agree that for the few extra $$$ it is worth going the Jap brand. in the case above $350 is very little!

Oh, yeah - don't go down in pipe size like the zorst guy is suggesting?!?!? you want the least amount of restriction possible! I'd suggest you get a set of brand name f/pipes and avoid the zorst guy! the F/pipes will bolt straighht up to your existing system of 3in dumps and 3in cat back (do you haev a good 3in cat?) it is something you can do yourself, but you need ramps at a minimum and it is sooo much easier on a hoist!

fortunately it is a bolt at the top, if it snapped, then just drill as described above. if you have basic tools you can do this job (or find a mate and borrow his/hers ) one thing I found usefu when doing manifold bolts like this was using a flexible drive off the drill - usually not enough room for the actual drill.

my system WAS like this- twin 3inch front pipes, merged into a 3.5inch join. 3.5inch straight through exhaust from the merge of the two front pipes, NO cat or mufflers. I had to put a cat and mufflers on for rego and at the time I could only get a 3inch cat. I CURRENTLY have 3in F/Pipes, collect into 3.5in, 3in cat, 3in pipe 2x 3in straight through mufflers. What I'm THINKING of doing is 3in F/pipes, collect into 3.5, 4in cat (one of those magic cats? for heaps of flow!), 3.5 pipe, 3.5 or 4in muffler (whatever is available). the very best setup is the 3in F/pipes, collect into 3.56, then 3.5 pipe - but this is not legal.... (sounded awesome and boosted much better though!!). What are you thinking of doing?

Gee, looks like I'm the newest member of nissansilvia.com thanks to pinoi_boi_r33!!! those prices are great!

No, my two 3 inch front pipes collect into a 3.5 inch, I've just got it going down to a 3 inch as that is what the Cat and Mufflers were at the time. My system was like this as it had a straight 3.5 pipe from the collection of the two front pipes when I got it from Japan. I'm thinking of putting my old 3.5 inch back on and getting a larger cat (4in?), along with a 3.5 or 4 inch muffler.

GunmetalR33, I'd suggest something from the Jap tuners in the way of a turbo. I looked into Hiflow GCG's for my GTR and it wasn't much more to get a set of HKS turbos... I see you needing Turbo + injectors.

Tial Go with something that can be quiet if you need. cops love the shinny ones.... oh, and if they say they are illeagle, they are not, what about the factory BOV's!!! just make sure it is a neat job.

don't take it back to the mechanic!!! it is going to cost you an arm and a leg by the sound sof him! as stated above, go to suprecheap/ repco/ autobarn etc and get some eziouts (make sure you check if it is a BOLT or a STUD - is there a section of the stud left in the head, or a hole?) if NOTING is left in there, it could just be a case that the bolt was not very tight to start with. The head metal material heats up and expands faster than the metal that the actual bolt is made out of, when this happens, the already loose bolt is prone virbrating out. get a new manifold bolt from Nissan, when your car is stone cold see if it will screw in by hand (if nothing left in the hole), if it fits and is not flopping around like a co*k in a sock, then it shoudl be fine to use that bolt. while you are at supercheap/ repco/ autobarn etc, get some high temp thread lock. If the bolt is too loose when you have inserted it all the way, and the threadway is clean (no squashed threads), you can take your new bolt to a bolt/ nut and screw supplier and ask them for one that is a size thicker. It sounds like a simple $5 fix to me (hot head, loose maniflod bolt....) you might even be able to find an SAUer that can help you. (I would but I'm in Canberra ) Sorry for the long post .... oh,the RSI/ OOS/ laterial epicondylitis....

I've got 3inch front pipes from my turbo dumps, NO flex joint - seems to be fine on my car. I understand the flex joint makes it easier to get the pipes onto the dumps. either way, your choice - but yes get the front pipes (as large as you can go). The rest of your system should be at least 3inch from the end of the front pipes back, bigger if possible (need to take into account the cat and mufflers). I have 3 inch cat and mufflers, quiet and works well.

that's what I was going to say, saw your thread engine bay heats up, pipe goes soft.... big suck from the turbo..... well dome for working it out - did you replace it with steel pipe or fit a spring on the inside to stop the crush?

see that black R32 gts-t with the red on the rims quite a bit, usually around civic.

that will look pretty neat best to discuss with a panel beater and an engineer (engineer will tell you if the changes you propose require anything specific) I had an XD van that was turned into a ute, not a major job, but required a good P/B. it would really depend on how much of a ute you wanted to make it, I'd be running reinforcing along the chassis rails and fitting cross bracing between them). do some sketches to get your ideas together.

x]SPHYNX[x - kinda like putting aaaa.... let's see, 12A rotor in a falcon GT Ha ha ha ha - you do realise that Mazda kitted out a holden HQ with a 13B rotor!!! this is JUST like your example above. it was an abomination, but they did do it... it was called the ROADPACER!!! http://holden.itgo.com/roadpacer.html how funny!

agreed! what a tosser!!! :headspin:

75k - 95k depending on condition and level of mods? (and where you purchase from...)

given his age, he may be asking a legitimate question (someone might be spinning him BS). But dude, have a think about these things before you post - saves embarrassment.....

people - Paul was very good with my boost controller, I dare say much quicker than what the 'internet sellers' could have done it. Free Bump for you Paul, if I can't get one S/H - I'll be up for one.

dude, V8 REV HARD if they are built and balance right, my old 302 windsor reved to 9000rpm!!! swwweeeeetttt sound...... As for superchargers runnign out of puff, what about the drag cars? I know these are 6/71's+ but they work a treat! The biggest dilemma in 'twin charging' is the crossover point f supercharger and turbo charger... the best example is the nissan superturbo march.

Good job Col - useful stuff for the rest of the SAUer's

No worries, another thread you should read is the SBC iD III vs AVC-R http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+ID+III+vs+AVCR. I had a look at mine yesterday and it is two wires and a few vac hoses! pretty straightforward.

supercharge a N/A RB26 or RB30/26 combo... I've seen the pic of the supercharged & turbocharged RB26, but thought it was more aof a stunt - never heard anything about it running...

no worries mate - I've got a brand new one that I'm putting in tonight (if I finish the fencing...), I 'll see if it has a diagram of your engine and how to connect. (it has a diagram of my RB26 and how to connect). Money is better in your pocket than someone elses! As for the setting up once installed, best thing to do is set channel 1 to 10 psi. Taken from SAU thread today go ito channel 1, select manual, boost - set to 43, gain set to 10 = 10psi. raise the boost numbers slightly each time to increase boost, BUT leasve the gain at 10

DIY, very easy - the english instructions were posted on this site by a friendly SAUer http://www.rs-competition.ru/blitz/pdf/Bli..._i-D_manual.pdf enjoy!