DAN00H

Nik Can't be the cams that have made the difference, as my car is doing it as well! and it has not had any changes since the dyno day. 1st time I experienced it was using OCTANE booster - it foulded the iridums, which i replaced with coppers. This solved it for a few hundred km's, but it has since returned. I have read other posts that point to the coilpacks.... I'll be checking these and changing my fuel filter.

sounds similar to my project (althoguh my stock turbos are still good ) I suggest the GT-SS kit, with 550cc - 700cc injectors and a nismo intank replacement pump. Tuning, as always will be important - I'm not going to guess what your RWKW will be, as things vary but expect 300+ (mine makes 230 on the stockers with 10psi - stock ECU, inj, pump. 3in exh) I'm going to be fitting GT2530's to mine (when I get the gaskets.....) Good luck

might be able to get them for ~$100 each - try a mazda wrecker. they shoudl be good for ~340rwkw (100%). from what i have heard they are good units - cheap upgrade. not sure if you can just drop them in - it is likely you will need a tune.

didn't notice a difference in my GTR

seems the PFC is very popular due to it's 'pre-programed' nature. and it is a good price.

with a turbo big enough for the rotor and 2jzgte, it will be slow to spool, but if you have everything else in place should push 600hp+ at the rear wheels ~ 1.4bar. What did you pick it up for? was it an entire kit?

I have reused head bolts in other cars (no boost) and they worked fine. are you sure the gasket is the correct one? Check all the oil/water lines to the turbo (is the turbo in good condition? did you connect the oil / water lines to the right places?

easier just to get a new copper washer!, but make sure you get 2 and do both sides of the banjo. (make sure you put them on the right way!)

best place to look is the F1 and cart related web sites.

you should be able to get the seal from nissan, or buy a replacement from supercheap etc... you should be able to remove the front of the roof lining enough to get to it (need to remove the edge trims).

more power if you upgrade the AFM's and pump... but the stock gear should get you to 300rwkw.

agreed - I would not pay that money for it!

seems odd that the GT series turbos would have such a design 'flaw'

only thing I can suggest is to scan the instructions and then go to a site that converts to english...

what are the flow rates on it? cost? where from?

anyone with 2530's (or the like) that is experiencing oil issues??? I imagine the replacement turbos would have the restrictor inbuilt?

1. simple test on the airflow of the elec fans, place your had on the front of the cooler and you should feel the air being sucked through. this will indicate of the fans are sufficient. 2. if your car has reached a really high temp there is every chance you have cracked/warped the head. when it first got hot, did you put any cold water into it? Once a car has had a really bad overheating it will always run hot (happened with an alloy head falcon we had... nothing fixed the high temp...) 3. When HPI/Zoom (don't remember which) covered the clockwork conversion of an rb20 into a silvia, they had major overheating issues - this was due to the intercooler / front bumper assembly and was only fixed by removing the original bumper and cutting away some of the metal / plastic... 4. when the engine was installed, one of your coolant pipes may have been crushed... 5. remove the rad cap and see that the water is circulating properly... sounds stupid, but a rag may have been left in one of the pipes casuing a blockage... 6. substance in overflow tank looked to me like oil... is your car using water??? might be a problem with the head as above, or the gasket. 7. when the car is hot, is the cap pressurised? DON"T FULLY REMOVE IT OR YOU WILL GET MAJORLY BURNT! place the thermo in a pot of water and bring to the boil, is it working??? 8. when you did the back flush, did you do it from various locations? might still have a blockage - squeeze all teh rubber pipes, might have rust/scale buildup... 9. that's about all I can think of for the moment.... Good luck!

how do you drive your car!?!?? never heard of this happening! I've not done it, but it should be a straight forward job. You might not need to remove the brake booster / master cylinders, if you can get the peddles off the hangers. Good luck.

huge power, mind posting a list of the work done along with the turbos? does it have cams/capacity increase/injectors etc to make that power???? Well done, can't wait to see the graph.

blu32GTR - Did you end up buying it then???

make it the do-luck GTR kit (version 2) and I'm in!

If you have carried out an engine swap, you have no-doubt upgraded to a large front mount cooler as well. I think you are having air direction flow issues, in that the air is not going through your cooler or rad properly. Are you able to measure intake temps after the cooler? you might find that the air is bypassing the intake duct and going under the car?!?! As for the oil in the overflow tank - not good. Take the oil cap off and see if you have a creamy light coffee colour foam up the top of the cap (best to do it after a bit of a drive). if the gasket needs replacing, you will need to have the head machined for sure before fitting the new gasket. See if you can put some padding between the outside face of the cooler and the edge of the front bar opening (most coolers do not sit flush with the bar opening, this can cause the air to take the easiest route AROUND the cooler and rad.

Hi Joe, I found the mag and PM'd you the info. For anyone else that is interested, it is located in issue no. 26 of ZOOM (with the front of a bayside blue R34 GTR - saying it was the first in the country, I think it was around 2000?) Anyway - it was a barina combo van fitted with the electronic clutch (had a button on the top of the shifter). Martin Donnon wrote the story, apparently very easy and quite cost effective (can still switch between manual clutch and the auto clutch), it woudl be heaps cheaper and easier than doing an auto conversion. If anyone wants more info let me know (PM me). Cheers

be costly new! I'd try CAPA, AVO etc and see if they have replaced the stocker and have it sitting around... Failing that try a ford wrecker (they should be able to link up on a network to find a smashed one). If you want one new, let me know - My friends parents own a ford dealership. (send a PM as I might not get back to this thread...)

the mesh is sealed in under the R32 GTR AFM's, you haev to remove a section of the plastic 'lip' to remove the screens. If you do this, be careful that you don't leave any plastic bits loose - make sure it is well cleaned up and clear of loose items.