DAN00H

Hey Stirlo good about the car , bad about the Roo Mine went through on Friday - I'll have to post some pics!

Trav I've answered all your questions (and a few more!) in My DIY COMPLIANCE thread. Yes, you need the intrusion bars - get them from ISASO in QLD, Belts are fine, they test them to ensure they lock when pulled. Cheers Dan. BTW - My 15 year old skyline ROCKS!!!

Messiah The stock mirrors have a banana bend in them (Concave), like the one's that have 'objects may appear closer than they look'. The ruling was to change this to a 'flat' type of mirror for compliance (to give you a 'normal' view), but this rule has since been replaced. (don't ask me what the ADR # is!!!) ISASO in QLD 07 3200 3988 (speak to Steve) to bars for all sorts of imports - not just Lines They do a damn fine job, and are very reasonable on $ (plus they are dead easy to install). Yes, you can do it yourself and get an engineer to certify Save

Hi All As the title says, I did the work on my car to get it to rego standards. Contary to what I was initially told (check you own state or territory ), you will require an engineers cert. So heres the list: Exhaust db took me about 2 hrs per side from opening the door - through to reinstalling and closing the door! VERY EASY JOB IF YOU HAVE SOME MECHANICAL ABILITY - YOU JUST NEED ACCESS TO A WELDER, OR SOMEONE WHO CAN DO IT FOR YOU. I am thinking of posting a 'HOW TO' if people are interested??? $280 for the bars inc postage (bris to Canb) ISASO QLD is the place to get them - Absolute perfect fit (well done guys ). High rear brake light - Kmart, $10 (I looked for 4 weeks for the long slimline one...) Unleaded only sticker - $0, if you have a nice engineer (cheers John!) Tyre placard (sticker) - if you have non original wheels / tyres. Again, see your engineer. Plaque in engine bay, showing the new VIN number DOTARS issued to you (at the bottom) $15 from key king - computer engraved, stick on. Additional things / Costs: I removed my roll cage, Had to remove tint on rear window (crying about that....) took a while as well! Rear diff bearings (~$400 - $500) as the pinion bearing collapsed... Engineer cert ~$450 I think that is everything.... as you can see - if you are prepaired to do the work yourself, financially you can be in front (I don't count my time, as I like tinkering with cars). Any questions??

but then again, what are the 'newer' R32 GTR's worth??? I think you could sell it for mid 20's (as long as it is half decent!) A GTR, is still a GTR....

Dude, stay away from anything that is performance orineted - it woudl have been thrashed and in need of dollars spending. I like your idea on the camery or magna, but they are just so dull... I would go a Mazda 626, or the telstar cousin - but get a manual (better on fuel). Anything that is too small will be a bitch to live with.

I agree - for that money, it is worth getting! who here would knock back an actual N1 at that money?!?!? Burto, if you end up getting it and come to Canberra, get the air con!! Nik, don't you remember how hot is was last summer!!! I would not have a car without fridgeability... I imagine you can get the N1 complied the same as a standard R33 GTR.

OS have the 3.o, but bring your cheque book! Jun do a 2.7 (from memory) there is also a 2.8 Most of the bigger jap companies have something in the way of more cubes.

PM sent re doors.

Heard this morning that the ACT government has allocated 8 million for the building of a dragway in Canberra. As yet no area has been earmarked. Be interesting to see what comes of it....

No - not without some big work

Hi Nik The problem you will encounter is this, the GTR does not have a spline shaft coming out the back of the box (ie: ford BW35, C4 & GM T350, T400, powerglide to name a few of the more common RWD) - it has a 4 bolt flange. The spline actually moves in and out with the rear suspension (as these car are mostly live rear axle - I know this is kindergarten basics, but I have to make sure I'm explaining myself!!), where as the GTR has the diff centre mounted solidly to the rear cradle. The trouble with putting a solid shaft into the GTR means you will have no movement between the rear of the box and the front of the diff flange. I would love to see how he is going to mount a solid shaft between the diff and box (which are both solid mounted, as on the normal falcs etc, you slide the tailshaft all the way into the back of the box, then bring it back to mate to the rear uni/flange on the diff) So, unfortunatly in your case, the short answer is no (unless he is going to convert your rear box flange, to enable it to be the spline type - scary!!) I looked at all of this only last night, as I finished bolting up my tailshaft. One thing you need to look at is to make sure your current centre bearing has not come adrift of the lugs on the hoop mount. Remember I told you mine was fragged? when I looked at it, it had come out of the lugs - so now that it is back in - it is way tighter, very little movement. Best of luck - let me know how it goes Dan

For a cheap tyre ($320 per hoop), I've found the Toyo Proxis T1-S to be excellent tyres, use the same compound as more expensive tyres and far better than the Falkens I have experienced. I've always had yoko or potenza, but these rank as good, if not better.

I think you are dreaming a bit if you think the GT-T will be in the mid to high 20's withina year! best example is to see what happens with the rest of the models over the years and their rate of affordability (I don't believe skylines depreciate!! IMO, this is a term for the local rep mobiles...)

my jap 3.5 inch was too low - wasn't fitted up all that well - I changed it to a 3 inch with a magna flow 3 inch cat (worth $450), along with 2 x 3 inch straight through mufflers. Phillip Exhaust did the work. email me at [email protected] and I will discuss further with you inc price / pros&cons.

you can borrow mine and get a copy if you want. sms me on 0413 377 742

I think it is very honorable that you are so commited to your car, but keep in mind the simple investment vs return formula. At the end of the day, have you spent more that you would have, had you sold your current car and bought a nice turbo model? I have learnt that the hard way before, but of course it is entirely your choice. The only thing you might want to check is engineering requirements and insurance problems.

why not drop in a GTR engine or running gear? someone is selling their whole R33 GTR driveline for 10K!!! (have you thought about the cost of putting a blower on your car!!?!?! - not cheap to do it properly...). I can't help but think if it's a powerful sports car you want, then buy one - don't try to 'build' one....

Dust, I haven't got mine there yet, but I spoke to the Head guy at Dickson. He said as long as it passed the usual roadworthy and had Child restraints in the rear, it was fine (providing you have all your paperwork) You will also have ot stamp your import approval (issued to you by DOTARS) on the body under the bonnet. He said you do not need an engineer cert. I am also fitting a HL brake light. will let you know

Hi All Well, I was on my way for a rego inspection this morning (after having changed the oil in the rear Diff last night to penrite 80 - 140 LSD oil), when about 3km down the road, a hear a clunk in the rear end (I punch the clutch, little good it did!) and get on the picks. As I cost to a halt, the rear diff is making a real bad grinding/crunching noise and I can smell something lick burnt oil/rubber. I thought it coudl have been the wheel rubbing, but no - too easy for that... I look under the car, but see nothing obvious (bad smell of burnt oil ....). I drove back and forward about 3 meters, trying to figure what it is... Decided it is the diff centre, Any ideas? Any one used this oil befier? it is a very heavy viscous oil... Anyone know the replacement cost on S/H R200 centre??? Cheers. BUGGER!

only way I can think of is to actually test it. you might get lucky doing a google search - some times the american sites have stuff like that.

it is the same engine, gearbox has an extra gear, do a search on the ratios. from memory all the GTRs run a 4.11:1 diff ratio. you may need the 34 box of sparks as well. do you haev an 89' that lunched the engine?

I have a chrome moly 6 point (6 mounts on the floor) for an R32 GTR which I will be selling. it is black and in as new condition. I have pictures of it in the car, but I have taken it out, but it is labelled (for reassembly)

I have the clamps pictured above - mine are Blitz, they work a treat.