R31Nismoid

I've put 30 odd hours into Fallout 4 thus far - Having never played the others I'm quite enjoying it as a good time filler. Certainly haven't lost interested in it as fast as I did with Witcher 3. After about the 15 hour mark I realised if I had my time again I'd do one major thing different, biggest tip would be the Idiot Savant perk, get the first 2 levels of that out as fast as you can and keep intelligence low (lvl 4 max, for hacking) till lvl 25 ish and then bang heaps into it fast to get the gains from it - put whatever other points into things that you wanna head down. If I doing it that way speeds things up massively once the exp starts rolling @ 3x and then 5x as you can get to hacking/cracking safes relatively quickly. I didn't get the Idiot perks till around lvl 15 after I realised and from then on it made the game go along a lost faster IMO. Unlocking points fast and quick. Detailed info on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/fo4/comments/3siw35/i_tested_intelligence_idiot_savant_and_experience/

I should report back Went with the Senn G4ME ZERO headset. The ZERO needs to be amplified and as I've got a Xonar Essence STX, that was no problem at all. I forgot to enable the amp gain so initially I was like "These are shithouse like the Logitech USB rubbish I had"... Once I turned the gain up and put some power through them. WOWweee. Absolutely sensationally immerse for gaming. Previously I had Senn HD555 (modded to 595s) and they were good but these are better again IMO. Did a bit of tweaking in the sound card settings and improved a bit more. Would recommend for the money. Do get a bit hot after wearing for longer periods, but that's just a sign to get up and grab a beer lol.

And EVO is booked into Import Monster's new service factory with a loooong ass list of shit to do. I should be a starter for Jan 30 now, need to lock in a tune somewhere in Jan however.

If you don't have an oil cooler, you're gonna have a very bad time. Once you see oil temp hit 120 back off as it's gonna climb top 130-135 before it starts to come back down. R888 will be fine, you'll run outta oil (and/or brakes depending on setup) before the tyres will give out

LOL good son of rajab... I can imagine! lol I know it is, believe you me it's almost sacrilegious in my view (if i was a religious person). Give me Japs and H patterns of the 90s any day. But none the less it will fix his problems, well the problems that are to come perhaps

But you have a NISMO clutch in your car? Just like most of us did/do... At least they got one thing right

+1 Laughed heartily.

lol indeed

See I've found that to be all over the place too (the fade). Given there are loads of variables in that scenario, cooling etc. You would think though one pad shouldn't massively wear faster than another in a certain region of performance. I know the A1RM when tracked, get eaten up like butter even on 1300kg cars and they are 780 degree or whatever. Ah brake pads, such a PIA

I had a Pedders Sth Melb do my GTR once, had to take it elsewhere a day later to fix it up, was pulling heavy to the left - no way that couldn't have been picked up during the test drive. Admittedly that was 4 years ago now and there have been lots of good reports since so perhaps just a blip on the radar Out of interest, where did you take it? You can also use Raceline in Blackburn. They recently did a full suspension/diff bush swap out on my EVO and I'm very stoked with the results, they are closer to me than Traction so I thought I'd give them a go. They are a new workshop in the scene, but the guys there have been in/among it all for 10+ years now so if you've been around you'll recognise the faces They have done quite a few SAU'ers alignments/suspension work lately and are also a Forum Trader (doesn't get any better than that!).

I'd be surprised if Chris didn't have one sitting there on a shelf (Nismo Coppermix), given how many they'd install in a year.. Best clutch.

lol absolutely

I've found temp ratings mean 2/5ths of f**k all in a lot of instances. Where by you'd think two pads both rated to around the same temp should last around the same length of time - but that is certainly not the case. Example A might last 4 track days where Example B will be cactus after a single outing... Identical cars. Now maybe the compound is different etc, but generally I've found if you are destroying pads (basically, disintegrating them) then you're going outside their "temp rating" and hence the breakdown.

You'll care when boxes start becoming harder to find I hate to say it, but an Auto will make life a lot easier on all of it... There is a reason the people have trended to Auto GTRs (more the last few years) - Reliability/Consistency are key. Don't break shit and don't need to service it anywhere near as often. The H pattern days of 8 sec Jap GTRs from the 90 and early 00's, I can only imagine how often they must have been breaking shit. IMO that was the pinnacle of GT-R drag racing though - 8 sec passes with H pattern boxes and huge RPM, that is insanity. A 2 way in the front? I didn't know you did that man, would've been interesting on decel Can't compare front/rear though, they are two different types of diffs essentially. Agree the Nismo rear is harsh, well, it does settle down and you can back it off to the "lowest" lock or whatever and it does come good. If it's too chattery you can always add some friction modifier (Penrite etc), not that I did,. That does the trick too - I suspect not a consideration in MJ's case tohugh

Well there you go haha yeah 400rwkw is the new 300rwkw, and as a result people are busting shit now more than ever - coupled with ever aging components, it's just never gonna end well.

I'll find out either way, will be doing a few track days on them next year too. I've done at least 3,000km on them, no issues yet.

And shiny!

As I said, 370rwkw and I had a modified transfer case, so sending a lot of power forward over factory. I never ran a electronic controller however, it was factory in that regard but I still do believe the 4WD is 70% mechanical (transfer case) and 30% electronic (4WD controller). So doing the transfer case negates need for electronic, I mean you can keep using it but then you're sending even MORE front. That's a lot of stress the drivetrain was simply never designed for. Held up fine once replaced. I loved the Nismo personally. I did take a good 1,500kms of driving to settle down... And by settle I mean the car used to try change lanes on a big launch/power put down when it was new as it was savage initially. I know others prefer the Quaife and I haven't have the chance to drive one with a Quaife (yet), one day Paul will stop breaking his car and I'll go to Syd and give it a hiding For me, Nismo suited my driving style and the motorkhana stuff I used to do in it as I could essentially 4 wheel power slide around cones etc due to the way it could lock (in conjunction with Nismo rear). IT certainly wasn't as street friendly as a Quaife would be, but I didn't care for that essentially. Yeah agreed. When making big power (500rwkw+) nothing is going to last IMO with a "dumb" setup that just sends as much to the front as it can, just too much stress all the time. I would suspect the super big boys (8 sec) are doing some trickery with how much is sent depending on car speed etc. Some serious ECU programming there.

1000 options. It's a direct AP caliper size. I think CP5555 - you'll have to research. Basically gives you more options than you can think of

How many KMs do you want? What driving do you do? 10k km? 20k km? AD08s will last 15k-25k depending on use. I mean I was doing motorkhana's, 8200rpm launches (100s), 4WD hellis and I still managed to get 10k kms out of a set of them. They are a bit harder than the RS-3, which I wouldn't expect to last as long. That said AD08/RS-3 are "Extreme Summer" as I call it, they are next level above P-Zero which come into the "High" category where other things like Nitto INVO, Continental ContiSport and similar come into play. NT05 are also in that Extreme Summer and I'm a huge fan of them, lasted 10k kms on my HSV and I tracked that thing hard. It really depends if you are track or not. If track, forget Pirelli/Conti etc. Soft widewall, will chew out. The Extreme Summer wont. Another good option, if they come in your required size, RE003s. They will wear longer, little less grip but still impressive. I also tested/reviewed them earlier in the year and was impressed then - So impressed I have a set of them on my EVO 8, for a daily driver, I reckon perfect compromise of dry grip/wear/wet performance/road noise.

Hard pipes usually do the exact opposite - in that - they make shuffle far more pronounced/problematic. Particularly when running larger twins, stock turbos not a problem but upgrade to -5s or 2530s and you're in for a tuning headache. So no, they are certainly not a good upgrade IMO. Plenty on this forum have even REMOVED the hard piped and gone back to stock ones for that very reason, plenty of posts about it. So definitely something that article fails to touch upon but then he's still running stock turbos... They should be the first thing you change, not everything else first.

10 year long (and happy) customer of Racepace here. Given you're usually the instigator, long as you don't, it should be fine?

Yep, it's fixing up the VSpec woes - A-LSD of fail.

Totally depends on the power. A good centre, shouldn't break. I had the same issue as you, broke a stock front R33 GTR diff/370rwkw... Took out my lovely Racepace sump as well, destroyed it is probably a more accurate description. Put in a Nismo centre in the front/rear, didn't break it again even after a year of giving it a beating. Failing that you'd need to fab up some sorta sump that'll take more stress (and won't fail). That would be high end drag racer stuff though, I've not seen/heard anyone doing it in a common sense but then even guys running 450rwkw and big launches don't smash things with aftermarket diffs (that I've heard about)

Must be vspec vs non that are different lengths... I couldn't remember what but something is certainly different