R31Nismoid

Mmm the stock airbox should be fine mate - archie01 & various others have made more power outta R32 airboxes!

I'll have more pictures later this week, w/e. This willl have to do for now but gives you a good idea of what needs attention, other shots would predominately show the rest of the car is pretty much ok. NOTE THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN WASHED. Fair few of the brown marks are simply hand/finger streaks that will wash off. The rest of the car is in gear nick otherwise. Only pictures below are of the issues really. rest of the interior is ok, same with the panels etc. Right rear 1/4 panel / Left rear 1/4 panel, its just above the wheel arch, just a bit of bubbling under the paint Roof i think its minor surface in the pic, it could even just be dirt/bird shit. Interior Other pics.

I'll get the link when i get home that explains in depth the ladder system (except for the bits Blizzard doesnt want to include) Going by that, it makes *some* sense why my mate & I matched such players, however not 4 games in a row based on the assumptions of the model that is being used.

Think about some places that rebuild motors etc. Some will do one a week, if not two. Over a year that is a lot of motors in a year. Of course you hear the all about the failed one I've had more than one, both over 5,000kms ok. And sometimes shit just happens, a beraing might fail etc, sometimes just due to the manufacturing fault down to poor checking. So many facets that can go wrong so its quite an achivement to see how many DO last perfectly fine making big power

Have your trimmed it down? If not, buy a radiator that fits? You dont need 52mm for even a moderately modded car

Oh look i watched it all and it was ok, if there wasnt some commentary I'd have fallen asleep. I just think the game overall isn't that enthralling. AT im now 13-7 lol, the matching system decided to pair us (we are silver) with expert diamond players 3 games in a row. Gotta love blizzards matching system's decisions *facepalm*, not one game have they got it correct. I've actually been reading up on how the whole system works, seems you basically have to mass more games for it to workout and doesnt inititally grade you correctly at all which kinda makes redundant the 5 "placement" matches.

Its more about was it built right, in terms of will it hang together @ those power levels, i'd hate to see it not last or something. I always have that worry i guess with unknown motors But ye, 650/700 & a tomei pump will be fine for -5s on PULP. You'll need at least 800'c for E85 as you'll be over 400rwkw (provided all things are in order)

Obviously i am not interested in sorting that out - if the buyer is, then im sure we can come to some arrangement

Due to it having had a cage (since removed), there are holes in the floor plan - wouldnt be a major issue to fix though of course. And the panel work required (rear 1/4's). Missing brakes/motor etc It cannot be complied as it is currently. If it was all fixed, then yes. If you wish to go through this then further discussions can take place surrounding that.

A larger plenum than what he has now will take longer to fill. Longer to fill means... (not saying the plaz stuff is bad quality or whatever).

His point is though i think - 19's will never be as good as a 17's equivalent, regardless of if you can buy them or not It's just pure logic really and the limitations. What gives the advantage is the sidewall. On a 19, you have less than the 17, or 16. The tyre has to be ever softer again to even come close to matching the grip levels (if at all) & last less longer again. If you plan to run MT ET's or similar you'll be on a 17 (not 18s) at the most to be honest as Noel said. Can't say I've ever seen a RWD car run a 10 sec pass with 19's on it

Ok selling a rolling R33 GTR shell, uncomplied at this stage, White car. Parts that are missing: Motor. Centre '3-gauge' cluster. Brembo brakes (has some other callipers on there for now, could be N/A skyline). No so good points Interior is average/rough, hence it would suit track/stripping. Minor exterior damage to both rear 1/4 panels, not major and reasonably easy repair. Did have a roll cage, so a few small holes in the floor Good points Car drives fine currently, gearbox is in good condition as are the diff's etc. No major body work has been performed on the car far as we can tell (no hard hits). Overall paint is ok Other than parts missing above, car has everything else. Has some aftermarket exhaust on it, stock suspension/cooler etc. Price: $6,500 ONO (this is without decent wheels, just some shitters for transport). Any wheels from the Import Monster SHOP (Click Me) can be organised for a reasonable price (possibly discounted), and final price altered to suit. Shell still has a motor in it so it can be moved easily, will be removed @ time of sale. Will ship/freight @ buyers expense. Pictures: See post #5 If I don't sell it I will just part - majority out to mates, won't be many bits left for the general SAU populace unfortunately! Contact via PM, if you have my number feel free to call & discuss. Thanks.

Not on purpose either, a friend is organising a drag day in Dec... bit of a bet running as i said i'll run a 10, so did a mate (blown SS commo) Maybe something in the setup has changed, isn't right and so on. Many worms in the can to pull out. Not saying you aren't right or wrong, I've just never been unsatisfied in any -5 equipped car, they are savage IMO and I've had my own big single @ 370rwkw before in my car Equally fun are GT35 equipped cars which produce very similar numbers etc. Turbo Dave - His comments are valid and fair, i guess everyone is different mate. Depends on what you want. Just remember doing it in a GTR is more costly due to sump adaptor and similar things. It comes down to how much do you want to spend, and how far you want to go. Rebuilding is not a cheap/easy/fast exercise generally and anyone that's done it can tell you it always costs more than you set out If you don't have at least 10k lying around - i would honestly suggest smaller, better turbos, drive it and be merry for now. Noely - you wanna come run 10s as well?

I wouldnt run without VCT personally. You can adapt it to the RB20 loom (im dead certain there is a detailed thread somewhere with the wiring info)... but IMO if you have the RB25 loom & motor combo, go down that route and keep the VCT. Its overall a cleaner end result as well

I've been on/off, so nothing majorly regular. So i will indeed hit it massively hard as i know all about that type of stuff, it's just the motivation factor to do it im lacking in - knowledge wise im all sorted

Horror stories about what? Nothing wrong with a 3ltr in a GTR. It's certainly a bit more work involved than say a GTS-T RB26/30 conversion, but i wouldnt go as far as to horror story base it! Although that said not a lot getting around, I've always wondered how the torque + gearbox would fare over 12-18months with the added torque as GTR's love to strip 3rd as it is without the added oomph.

Yeah, its fine on the PFC base map and the vipec one, as long as the haltech one is similar in that regard (maybe give them a call?) Then it should be ok mate, but just do not get carried away (easy thing to do )

Plenty of conversion threads mate - have a bit of a search. Otherwise its very simple. Loom, motor, ECU. If you plan to chase power i would most certainly put a RB25 gearbox in there as well. Not sure whats required for a R32-t tho (i know a HR31 needs crossmember mod). Fuel pump - well that largely depends, in stock form it should be OK, but wont hurt to change it of course for a couple hundred.

Ye? I need to get back into hitting the gym, and as im lazy... Getting myself there is a mission. If i have someone to go with, its far more motivating and one can push a lot harder etc.

Tisk tisk! All access was sorted out over about 2hrs last night... You were in arrears by just a 'couple' of months, I'll follow up with him and find out where the cashola is. This is why we much prefer people to follow the proper renewal process rather than handing cash around @ events and so on. It's very hard to keep track from an audit point of view (cleaned the thread up also to keep it clear/simple for new users/members)

Well given he is a good friend of mine and we were actually discussing it yesterday, I'd be inclinded to believe my version. You aren't the only one, plenty of cars out there are using factory dumps and making 330-380rwkw. If you are so dead certain the car doesn't have anywhere near the power spend $80 and put it on another dyno and see, would be the first thing i'd do. (i've gone from racepace to dr.drft, varience of a whopping 10rwkw) Anyway, proof will be in the pudding - I'll remember this thread for a time when i run a 10 with "super piss ant -5's!" Till then

If you cannot run a 10 sec pass on -5's, in daily street rubber - then you aren't using the pedals correctly. Leewah ran 11.2 @ 130mph (normal daily tyres, no special rubber) with 347 @ the wheels... So -5's, 20+ psi you have a LOT more. You dont even need to swap tyres. End of the day if you don't like it then change it, there is always one that isn't happy.

The KU's tread wear is more than RE001's 255's (read, they are softer, grippier) So if RE001's are fine in my car with 270rwkw, barely breaks traction at all, then your friend needs larger tyres or some suspension/diff attention. As is the problem with those types of examples, sometimes setups are fully correct and hence the tyres stand no chance regardless

You brought up old threads, with useless shit posts that dont mean anything. Take the warning on the chin and don't do it again.

So so true