R31Nismoid

400rwkw even. I did lol a little bit when i read factory ECU & FPR...

^ good thing a PFC involves no custom wiring then doesn't it? Nistune & the PFC for all intents and purposes are identical in reference to RB's. Be it you or someone else, whoever was doing the tuning/setting of the PFC didnt do a good enough job if results were not the same. Cold start, temp threshold, A/C loading and so on, all the stuff that most ECU's dont have "out of the box" the PFC has. So it shouldnt run any different at all. PFC was a product to fill the void for what, 10+ years. Nistune has only come to be viable in recent times. I remember when initial development work was being done 6-7 years ago and i was sending my special R33 chipped ECU over to SA to lend a hand Nistune is a great option, so is a PFC. They should both deliver identical results in capable hands. As for the rest, already covered.

Define "smilar spool" Larger rear housing, larger turbo comp side, that combination dont usually make for 'similar' by my definition

No excessive bumping, and you do not need 2 threads about the same thing.

Blackburn to Mitcham - go down there and ask

problem is with 12years, all the updating/recoding that needs to go on. But at least they have a good idea of what they want It had better be epic, and it had better be filled with more cheesy lines than a 80s action movie or im gonna be annoyed!

I think you'd be one of the first people to get over the 300rwkw marker on a stock manifold with a 3ltr! I know a few others ran into problems a while ago (Joel from SA was one). Everything should be fine if you upgrade injectors either way mate as long as your tuner is competent. I've had factory, 550 & 740cc injectors in various setups with a PFC, i didnt notice a difference with any.

Get a better boost controller Or a better actuator

lol @ an hours work. I think you'd find it'd be signifigantly more than that. It's hardly like the guy gets out there for one lap. On location you'd be looking at a full day, if not more. Plus the guy has to maintain skills and so on which is more time. Considering what the show makes money wise, 10k GBP is a very good deal IMO. Obviously he could/wanted/should have got a lot more but all depends on how you view it.

Some ECU's crack it @ 9psi, some are fine with 12psi. Its just luck of the draw. Either way just dont go giving it heaps of curry until you get it checked out. End of the day all that will happen is it'll hit R&R mode in epic fashion anyway.

I can think of 3 R34's making 380rwkw/-5s (20-22psi) through factory coolers down here without a problem. It sounds like you haven't actually confirmed you are getting soak. Could also be your core could do with a bit of a clean even. So I'd certainly suggest spending some time checking out your setup in more detail - no point upgrading if you dont know if its a problem. That said, if you needed to upgrade for that power range i'd be looking in the For Sale and pickup a jap one a bit cheaper 100mm you might not even need to go that big. (side question, whats the thickness of stock? I cant remember off the top of my head atm )

Ticket scalping is not legal, closed. Either you post them @ the purchase price - or don't post them at all. They didnt cost $225ea, i know because i have some.

Ask your tuner - use the search function. This has been covered many many times. Every ECU is different. Its upto you to work it out with your tuners reccomendations given they are tuning it.

Its easier.

Garrett -9s or a GT3076 Failing that go and look @ the dyno sticky threads.

Check the manufactuers info. Bosch quote thier pumps running voltage that is higher than factory. Walbro are the same, they need more juice.

No, that is not what he asked. Get the mutlimeter out then, and see for yourself @ idle, under load etc. It's not always enough. 1volt loss to the pump can mean quite a bit in terms of volume.

Stock wiring does not let enough voltage through to the pump.

Chris - You can get them new for cheaper atm from many places. If you come down on price i might be interested, will save me having to order

Read the forum rules, then try posting again. Thanks.

It's been imported under SEVS, therefore its complianced Aus wide. It couldnt have been registered otherwise. Sounds like the R32 was a '89 GTR, therefore not requiring a plate - either that or it was done dodgy.

hehe true, I've never played starcraft before this though... But the Blizzard games do have a similarity element

Just tell the tuner 12psi max, thats it. It's your car, its your call regardless. For long turbo life, 12psi is the limit realistically.

IMO the N1 crate motor is the biggest waste of money possible, all the cost of a proper build - with all the factory faults still. Still does not solve the issues of tuning... Thats the biggest issue IMO. You dont need to touch the head mate - who are you getting your advice from? Whoever it is, stop. They are sending you on a wild money goose spending spree! N1 oil pumps by and large, are fine as i stated above.

Mate if you only want what, 280-300rwkw, you could basically do that on a stock bottom end. Realistically pistons are a bit of insurance, but at the end of the day detonation is detonation, and it will kill your motor either way. Especially considering you cannot tune. The oil pump dying issue is blown massively out of proportion here unfortunately. Yes some have failed, but out of the 1,000's installed every year, without full disclosure (things like limiter bashing & tune related) then its even less again. Highly unlikely you'd bust a pump if you have half a brain and dont drive the car balls on 8,000rpm everywhere. Honestly if it was me? Just have a factory rebuild done. Install steel wheeled factory turbos and simply be happy with 250rwkw on a factory ECU which will at least give you some known reliabilty. That is the most cost effective solution for you, without and added risk or failures which i can see will occur in the future unfortunately.