Akshunhiro

Ah, right. Thanks for the responses. Good to know I'm not the only one. I did find a diagram of it and appears to just be the one sensor but sits on the opposite side of the fuel neck and pump/filter assembly. I suspected it would be similar to the WRX where it sits over the trans tunnel and essentially splits the tank but there's no secondary fuel pump from the looks.

Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?

This

I see everyone's blacking out their headlights. Looks good but I'd prefer a pair of the split headlights on S2 M35's. Reasonably cheap too, shouldn't be too much in shipping...

It was pretty straight forward! I saw the thread for swapping out the Japanese TV tuner for an Australian one but wanted to go one step further and playback my own media. The Stag has an aftermarket head-unit already but bluetooth audio streaming is the best it can do and the screen was going to waste so read up how to tap-in to the A/V input that plugs into the stock TV tuner. Turns out it's just one long aux cable with female RCA connectors at the end. I can't confirm where it runs to though as mine was unplugged and I also found an aftermarket video splitter for what I imagine was for a roof mounted TFT. One of the labels on the video RCA feed was marked iPod so may have just been used with one of the iPod docks for both video and audio.I had the rear trim unclipped to see whether the input cable was still there or if I had to make up a new RCA lead to plug-in (even bought a Dupont connector kit off eBay since I thought I'd need it) but just traced it back to the front and that's when I found the other wires that had already been run. Decided to sit the Pi in the centre console for the time being (was going to keep it in the rear originally) and bought a 12v-5v converter to power the Pi via it's standard micro USB connector. Mounted LibreELEC on a spare SD card and fired it up. I'm using a standard 3.5mm breakout cable (which includes composite video) and it works okay. Couldn't really find a suitable skin to match the small resolution of the pop-up display but was able to increase the font size to make it readable (text is sometimes an issue but video is fine). I tested LibreELEC 7, LibreELEC 8 and OpenELEC 8 but settled on LibreELEC 8 being the most recent build and hopefully the most efficient for the Pi 3. Startup time is pretty good but I have to shut it down manually when I get home. It's hard-wired to 12v at the moment and surprisingly doesn't die when cranking (was expecting the voltage drop to cause it to drop-out and restart, must be because it's only 5v) but I'm waiting for a module to come into stock from the US which has 2x USB ports, a startup trigger and shutdown script triggered by accessories. I control it with the head-unit remote and a FLIRC v2 USB IR receiver as those buttons aren't assigned to anything when on the aux input (but can use any IR remote with the FLIRC). Link to gear below; 3.5mm to RCA cable ~$5 12v to 5v transformer ~$5 FLIRC USB IR receiver ~$40 Power supply with shutdown trigger (haven't ordered, waiting to come back into stock) ~$30USD + international shipping? Raspberry Pi 3 ~$60 A micro SD card (capacity of your choice depending whether you want to keep media on the card or stream over Internet) The Pi 3 has both bluetooth and wifi but, since they both share the same antenna, you can't have both running at the same time. I was going to get a 4G USB dongle but haven't confirmed which model will work with the Pi (Apparently the Sierra wireless 320U does but haven't tried it yet) so have just been hot-spotting off my phone. I was tempted to mount a blank DIN for switches and USB ports etc to replace the head-unit but will keep it for the time being. Was also toying with the idea of a cleaner source unit (since my aux cable plugs in the front and it's pretty much always on that input) but the only one I like is $2k (can use the rear USB input though) and really not worth the $$$.

Installed a Raspberry Pi to take advantage of the pop-up display. Found that this thing had a decent sound system at some stage after lifting the carpet. Main purpose is for streaming music (Spotify and SoundCloud) on the go but also setup YouTube, Twitch and Covenant.

Niiice. I just went through this myself. Ended up buying a battery because I thought it had dropped a cell since the car was struggling to turn over haha. Found a few threads on here stating the same thing with the M35 so whipped the starter out and found it caked in crap due to worn brushes. There's brush kits available on eBay or even genuine Nissan (part number 23378-0M300) but mine still had a bit of meat left so just cleaned it all up. I did have minor scoring on the armature but not enough to be concerned. Threw it back in and sounds/starts like a new one.

M35 thermostat for $40 Hey all, Just an FYI for cooling improvements for your Stag. The V35 thermostat 21200-4W01B which suits VQ series is only $40 from Kudos Motorsports. Figured this would be good info as it's a good medium between the stock 82 and Nismo/Mishimoto 65 @ 76.5 Happy cooling, JB.

Yeah Scotty referred me to Fenix as well but I'm being stubborn and doubting fitment due to core width. Fenix NZ lists what appears to be more suitable for S1: http://www.fenixautoparts.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=693 I took mine out on the weekend but hadn't measured it up yet. Was just going to try get a Koyo through Natrad.

So, still haven't sorted this yet haha. Probably organising to get one through my local Natrad since they can get Koyo's. I have 2 questions though. My stock radiator is only 16mm thick. I was probably gonna go up to 26mm but will this affect clearance for A/C condensor and A/C fan? I've got room at the back with the shroud and clutch fan but slightly concerned about the front even though it may only be about 5mm difference (if they keep the core centred). And, was probably going to get some silicone radiator hoses, are 350Z/VQ35DE the same? It looks like they are but just wanted confirmation. I've got the coolant bypass mod from Scotty so just trying to piece everything together ready to go all at once.

Yeah although they still had the VQ25 in S2. Apparently VQ25 S1 and VQ30 are same radiator (with the mounting points on the outer-most edges), slightly different to VQ35 and S2 VQ25 (ditched the viscous fan for electric).

Thanks, I did look at Fenix but it only looks like they do S2.

Hi all, Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm needing a replacement after splitting the top tank. Are these eBay radiators okay? I haven't been able to find a genuine Koyo in Australia other than JustJap but they only have the S2.

Thank you! Damn, what a mission. Probably the best way to do it though. Saves the frustration of having to cut down spanners and fighting for space with huge man-paws.

M35 DIY turbo replacement Hi all, Apologies for creating a new thread but I can't for the life of me find any DIY threads for replacing a blown turbo on the VQ25. Funnily enough the threads I have found refer OP to the search function. I understand a few owners have had to go through this heartache but has anyone documented it for use on this forum? Keen to grab an M35 and want to research turbo replacement as it's going to need it sometime down the track but sale depends mostly on ease of replacing this critical part.

Offers?

No, didn't have them on a Skyline but they definitely clear

No longer going to use these so they're up for sale Stock 370Z wheels made by Enkei Front: 18x8 +43 with ~60% RE002's Rear: 18x9 +15 with mismatched, illegal tread $800ono with wheels nuts (they use shank type, not conical) Brisbane Northside

Please PM. Rarely log on to SAU these days.

BUMP

That's the feed isn't it? Feeding from the plenum to the pressure switch and returns to the airbox.

Thanks Gavin. Would it be okay unplugged or should I plug it back in and leave it loose in the engine bay? I found some more info on the pressure switch, was a little concerned as it didn't have a return to the airbox. Should I plumb it in?

It's part of the stock airbox on the R34. It's factory.

Hey all, apologies for starting a new thread but couldn't find any info on my question (most relate to MFD). I recently replaced the pod filter on my 34 with an Apexi power intake and noticed that the previous owner fitted the intake temp sensor to the Blitz filter bracket bolting to the MAF. Car runs fine with it unplugged and doesn't bring up the CEL but was wondering whether I should plug it back in and sit it loosely in the bay or just leave it unplugged. I have no way of mounting it to the new filter and I'd prefer to go back to stock airbox and snorkel with panel filter but people still want way too much for them... This is the setup with the Blitz filter. Apexi filter is now fitted and included a bracket to mount to the body so is a little more cop friendly. Also, correct me if I'm wrong about it being an intake temp sensor. While I'm here, can anyone tell me why the heck there's a vacuum line looping through the power steering pump?

Nah, this is the one that sits next to the brake booster. Solely for the gauge. Location: Stafford.