Duncan

This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too

Sorry for the basic question...but if the driveshaft has 2 unis, are they aligned properly? If they are 90o out it will vibrate like a bastard

FWIW Fenix are made in NZ, not China. I've used them before with no issues too.

I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.

That's a pretty big job card assuming you're not planning on any machinery. I hope your dirt/rock ratio is not like ours, hand digging up here is very hard work I use the Mitre 10 in Sloane St or Gehl's Nursery where I can rather than Bunnings, but for bulk material everything (Goulburn Sand and Soil, Rocky Hill Sand and Soil) and is owned by Divalls (as is about 80% of town) so no point shopping around. Let me know if you need to borrow a ute or box trailer. BTW we also went with 7mm blue metal around the house, mostly for fire but also termites. You really need compacted road base under it then no more than about 50mm of rocks because otherwise they shift too much under foot. We also put corten edging to stop it spreading outside its area over time.

I'm not certain about the fuel hat connectors (noting, I DID have to replace the hat in my Stagea with one of these pumps) However, you 100% do need to do a properly sized relay mod, the factory wiring is definitely too small for these pumps.

Welcome to SAU Josh, sounds like you are in the right place!

I see what you posted, but how could a warning light be going on and off if there is no sender for it? The only other explanation is that the wire that used to go to the sender from the warning light is earthing somehow in the loom or at the connector, or that you have connected the warning light wire to something (maybe the temp sender?).

Whoa, I know Im working too much but that seemed quicker than 6 weeks Awesome winter weather this week, -3 overnight and sunny, calm 10 during the day, love it

There would be multiple options in Sydney, I'd see if Gary at Just Jap could help.

Good news. Leave the AFM on there until you move to the Link, it will use MAP instead

If you look closely, you can actually pinpoint the moment Dose's heart broke

Also possible you have a fuel pump or regulator issue, it runs OK when it is trying to be rich when cold, but runs badly/lean once it is trying to run normal. Put a fuel pressure gauge into the feed line and check that too.

4 GTRs in 2025....you must be a billionaire

It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair

The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.

It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far

That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)

I saw a car just like this stopping at Harvest for coffee this morning

It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....

So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think. You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest. On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.

Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):

Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night. Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.

hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet). Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator

wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?