Duncan

Actually to extend on that....the problem is it is very easy to make double or triple the power that Nissan engineered the cars for. If you are going to do that you have to accept that you have to re-engineer everything associated with your decision. Most of the club motorsport world is much more mildly modified, with people spending a track:broken ratio that skyline modifiers only dream of

The V37 did just fine at the track day, other than it needs a bigger radiator. Mods are the problem.

You're 20 years too late mate. Used to be 80% skylines back in team trackday days

Just chuck in an ECU, Injectors and a pair of direct fit low mount turbos, that should use to the top of your budget and give it a nice kick along. Also, don't do anything unless you don't need the car daily....if it does blow and you get another 10k bill just to get back to where it is now would you be able to come up with the cash or will it sit for 2 years like most GTRs....

Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?

Welcome Newbie!

good news, the R32 wiring diagrams cover auto/manual and rb20/rb26

Yeah the electric a/c in the Fuga hybrid runs off the HV battery not the 12v system

lol that is not the same

yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)

Interesting....can't say I've ever checked it, have always just changed it in the off season as practice

Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it

I call bullshit / AI generated. Pete has never been ready for a track day 3 days early.

hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes

Given it is temporary, I bought a cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting

Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard. First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!

Next up, the extinguisher is mounted but really only temporary because I ran into clearance problems (the bracket fit fine....until I put an extinguisher on it). It picks up the seat bolt mounts but has long bolts running through 20mm spacers for now Doing it properly requires a bit of quick welding but I ran out of time, this will do for the practice day

Family events weekend but a snuck a couple of things in. NSW state champs were down at Wakefield so I got Gordon Leven's to bring some A052s down in the right size for some spare rims I had that "fit" (actually ex-Leaf Nismo.Rays in 18x7.5). Tyres are 235/45/18 so they are narrower than stock (19x8.5s) but I need to keep road tyres on it for daily use for now. In a first, those weird size tyres had been in the yoko warehouse for so long (4.5 years apparently) that they offered 4 for the price of 2....so 4 practice tyres for about $1100. Bit of a bargain for sticker tyres, considering the real purpose of the practice day is mostly to see how the various temps go (and the weather is due to help, forecast 32o). In terms of race wheels, it looks like I should be able to fit 9.5 fronts and 10.5 rears but 18 vs 19 height will be based on what tyres I can get in the right size - good tyres are very limited in available widths in diameters above 17" so some planning is needed. Once I'm sure this car will work I'll order a set of custom BC wheels like I did for the R32, you can get exactly the right width and offset to make the most of the available space in the wheel well (the 32 has 295s all round on 18x10s and they are awesome) Incidentally A052 are asymmetrical but not directional which is good news for rally use if the front and rear wheel sizes are different because I can swap them side to side on the same axle. Directional tyres are a nightmare with staggered size wheels because each tyre is fixed on that corner unless you can get it rotated on the rim (not really practical mid rally in most cases)

Glad it worked well, is the balance OK?

You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation

If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.

classic. wonder if they actually have stock, they can't be fast moving parts

I should add....its hugely unlikely any wrecker would have that panel, or if they did that they would know they have that panel. I'd just put the interior trim back on and forget this conversation ever happened

I don't, but you can use a parts catalogue like at amayama.com with your VIN# to find Nissan's description

Exactly....but I will just add that is internet science....I've never seen hard data on a stock rb25 manifold so I'm just assuming....