Duncan

The price of every automatic S2 stagea in japan has suddenly doubled

Save the youtube time, I can explain in a couple of sentences: Internal Combustion Engines run on smoke which is factory installed. If at any time the smoke escapes (generally via the exhaust), the engine will stop running.

That specific R33 GTST issue I ran across was putting a PowerFC into a series 2; it required a fuse added into an existing but unused circuit to fire up the PFC. That won't be the issue here as I assume the ECU powered up (OP surely would have mentioned if they couldn't connect). As Matt said, Haltech do have specific information about wiring in the Platinum Pro where there are minor differences across the 2 row plug models (R32/R33 from memory). Quick Start guide at this link: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-055101-platinum-pro-plug-in-ecu/# At a quick glance, it is more likely to be a local wiring issue than ECU wiring (eg that connector near the left headlight might have differences) Start with the age old question....are you getting fuel and spark, at the right time

Stay away from Enkeis for track use, they crack, just ask the Evo kids. I'd take Murray's advice and put the widest forged wheels in the right offset under them I could find

Assuming you are starting with a red sport/400r with the factory akebono calipers, you will never need to upgrade the calipers/disc/pad size which is good news (mine really could do with a rebuild though, the auto braking seems to be hard on them). They are the same as the track spec 370z when people can't find a parts lookup. Because I am/intend to tracking the car, I put race spec discs on it (DBA5000 series which are 2 piece) but for street use I would stick with factory until they need replacement, then put on slotted DBA4000 discs Pads I can't help much, I went with winmax street/track pads but they are not what I would choose for street use; they have great bite and never faded on the track, but are dusty as hell Fluid should be changed if you don't know when it was last done, I use Motul RBF600 and change it annually. That setup is sure to be fine for any power level you throw at these for spirited street use. If you are doing full on racing of course sky is the limit depending on exact needs.

Pro tip....take the driver's seat out first. You are going to want that for clutch pedal in as well soon enough

Ahh well...I'm sure the 2000hp rb shops have them on the shelf, just ring with wallet handy Maybe its time for a single cam conversion from an rb30?

Which head are you looking for?

Did you ever work this out? I've never seen M11 on a skyline, only m10, m12 or BSPT...

You may not want to hear this, but daily driving a 30 year old skyline in the US isn't going to be a good experience, every time something like this happens you will be stuck for months. The rack reco should be trivial at a specialist....take it off, get it rebuilt, back on the car in 1-3 days.

Its the labour that costs....it will be hours per wheel to strip, prep and paint/coat On the bright side they should come back perfect....until the first time you make a mistake parallel parking.....

Yes you should be able to use that connector to force it to run, that is how you bleed the system. If it doesn't work for some reason it will also run if you have the engine running and open one of the bleed nipples (put a plastic tube on it first like when bleeding a brake nipple to make sure no air sneaks in). A common cause for error 51 is the earth between the subframe and chassis causing the pump to get insufficient power (because the subframe is rubber mounted)...you could start by just adding an earth if the factory one is suspect.

What a mission....good perseverance and thank god we don't really have a rust problem around here!

That is a right pain, but much better than having a dead forever unit, good on them for helping (sort of) instead of ignoring. Most likely internal connections will be like a laptop/consumer electronics. Tiny white plug/socket connectors, sets of pins joining mother/daughter boards and ribbon cables for any display connectors into those long plastic housing that flip up (I can see at least 2 of those in the pics). If you are not familiar with them, there would be youtube on all of them, nothing is hard just need to know the tricks

Will be interesting to see if 100% of a 102mm throttle makes more power than 95% of a 102mm throttle....I would have thought a throttle that big was not the limiting factor in air getting in and as GTSBoy said earlier, somewhere (wastegates maybe?), the amount of additional air from 95-100% open is way less than say 25-30% open because it moves in a curve

Good to know, the factory pipes have an X too

oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too

sorted

Good timing mate, welcome to God's country just in time for winter Seriously though....how cheap is rural/regional.

I haven't used the Crank Motorsport ones, but can I ask why not use standard gtr/gts4 axles at the front? They would easily cope with that power level. BTW.....sounds like quite the project!

I went with Racebox for my tuning because they have a good rep and many VR30 customers. Even though the car is mechanically standard they were excellent; 7 rounds of tuning including some specific things I asked for like throttle mapping with no issues. Alternatively, I bought the dongle and tuning licenses from Tunehouse (the Australian distributor) because I'd like local support for any problems and want to support local businesses where practical. I didn't go with the for the actual tune because they only do on dyno custom tuning (which is a pain for me for a standard car when I'm hours away). Note everyone I spoke to locks their tunes, so once you start with someone you have to restart from scratch if you are not happy with them in the future which was a big downer for Ecutek in my opinion.

I've only ever had intercooler piping custom made, there are lots of little differences between cars and hard piping is not very forgiving, even with silicone joiners for some flex

I believe the traffic updates are a separate, current (but probably not for long!) called TMC and was probably loaded into the Aus delivered cars back in the day https://www.liquisearch.com/traffic_message_channel/tmc_services_in_operation/australia Again, it is far less effective than Google tracking the location (and therefore speed) of every person in the country every second without most of us knowing, to determine where traffic is slowed....

sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow

It might have the right plug but not be real OBD, they used J-OBD and all sorts of other weird things over time. Just checking...they ignition was ON when you tried this, right?