Duncan

FWIW, that's the only colour I'd buy it in

I don't know why we've had a different experience, but I've had them on the race car for 18 years and not a drop, and have them on the stagea too, same, no problems.

Ha! well, there's your problem! Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....

Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett

Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one. Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)

Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.

Ahh I see. I don't know, not all shocks are setup like that. Other than clearance it doesn't matter much because it is double wishbone, so ignore how it was and just out them in whichever way fits best

lol knock knock knock

Yeah plus they offer free haircuts!

Glad to hear you still have the 32 BTW

Got a pic? If you mean the washer, I put the larger one in as it has a larger face to hold against, and the smaller one out as it only has a nut on it

That may not be so tricky with a changeover relay (again, with LED indicator only to reduce load on existing headlight + source) 30 to indicator + globe side 86 and 87 to headlight parker + 87a to original indicator + chassis side 85 to chassis/earth repeat on each corner, sorted, no diode required

wow that is some seriously JDM original credibility there!

Yeah it will surely need a diode to stop the headlight turning on when the indicator does, I'm pretty sure all it would need is a wire from the headlight parker wire (via a diode) to the indicator 12v. Assuming you also convert to LED that is....I'm not sure if the standard wiring will take the load of the extra indicator globes if they are incandescent

Post up or shoot me a list of anything you need (other than R34 specific), I've been meaning to move on some spares

Yeah they seemed surprised I'd like to know more than "The refund relates to an issue we identified where the way we calculated your premium was different to the information we provided you. "

Well, I guess that explains the Lumley thing. I got an email the other day purporting to be from Lumley that they had identified an error (no details) and would be providing a refund (including interest)....of $9.4k. Ignored it as obvious spam until the refund actually turned up in my account today. I know I pay a lot per month over the cars and have been with them for 10 years.....but still.....if you really make a mistake that big it might be worth a 2 minute call. ......off to buy some more mods....

hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.

keep an extinguisher nearby? or even better, take it out of the car to charge?

Bulk charging can be a high voltage but I would have though 14.x not 15.x What battery type?

Yeah agreed.....sunlight and heat would be the biggest risks.

that is still a future, potential state.....

Probably OK if you can do it yourself, our local Auto Elec couldn't get a kit for it so couldn't be bothered fixing....

I am very confident every insurer outsources their Assessing to people who get paid a bonus for the $$$ in reduction in claims they assess, so they are deliberately incentivised to screw customers

sadly V37 skyline has that "feature" too when you select sport or sport+. Can't hear it through a helmet though