Duncan

jesus, top speed of 138, you might as well be doing Targa Tas under the new rules

Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.

So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.

what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above

I don't know what you should expect with an LS, but the oil pressure sounds terrible, sorry. As for the brakes, you can get fade from the pads not just the fluid, although generally that feels like a wooden block not doing anything while fluid feels like an oh shit there is no pedal so you can generally tell. What pads are you running front and rear?

The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it

Gee she looks a bit rear heavy in that first pic! Sounds like a great project with the kids, but as I guess you know R series stuff is getting hard to find and pre that is pretty much impossible these days

So it looks like if you buy the set from Z1, they will make sure the joint matches the arm taper....they often upgrade things throughout a series when they have warranty issues

"lol dunno" either But like you, I can't see any reason they would need to be different LHD to RHD

Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"

I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?

Lol just grab a bonnet that you can tie under your chin BTW spotted a red mx5 with hard top in town again today, must be a small world

Nice....looking forward to that update

Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!

100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)

Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!

You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.

Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender

yeah, so "something" should be -4 AN....to a hose....to a -4AN to NPT fitting *edit* sorry, I surely have that backwards. The LS is from land of the free so it must be NPT at the block, and the Nissan sender is BSPT. But still, conceptually the same

And I'm guessing my GTR might be feeling a bit unloved. Had to push it out to get the R33 out, but couldn't push it back in (its a bit uphill, haven't got around to installing that winch yet, and Kel complains that its "too hard" to help push cars uphill after her double back surgery....kids these days) Hopefully I can get that winch mounted and get her back inside before a pine tree falls on her in the storms coming this week.

So, this happened today r33.mp4 No, I don't have much of a future on tic tac Yes, it needs a tune Yes, I cut the video just before I stalled it ....gotta be nice to fresh engine.

So I actually had the cover off my car today, here is a (bad) pic of the setup. I have an oil cooler thermostat block, the temp sender is straight in there. The pressure sender has a short AN line to a T piece which is mounted (hopefully cable tied counts as mounted....) on the chassis. BTW every fitting you could ever imagine exists....just depends what they cost and how many you need. Raceworx AN adapters are here: https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/, I think you said you need BSPT to AN (https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/bsp/tapered/an-to-bspt-adapters/) and AN to NPT (https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/npt/) BTW, braided line is super simple to make. It looks intimidating, is not.

Perfect day for a pie, really needs a soft top in this weather though

Well, this, but braided line to the sender that is mounted on the chassis. Oil Pressure doesn't need to be close, while I prefer Oil Temp is in the active oil flow (bro science, not sure how much it matters). That's how I've had mine set up for years and it works OK

Welcome back! There is a v series forum, a little quiet at times but every new active member helps