Duncan

fkin reckon, pretty sure it has head studs and a steel wheel in the turb I'll likely do a practice /shakedown day at Wakie before I call it ready to sell, then the new owner can have the first chance to put it in the trees properly

Been down in Tassie for 2 weeks (a cruise, not a race for once) but spent a little time on her when I got back. I worked out the injector settings in the PowerFC were not correct for nismo 555s, set those to 66% +10ms and added a little air at closed throttle, set the timing (approximately, because it has some weird non 15o cells around idle) and now she starts and idles properly. She purrs like a kitten (ignore the co2 alarm in the background, I did ) 20250518_171052.mp4 Next step, off for run-in, tuning and alignment!

Yeah either way you're going to want something with all wheel drive and a good heater to deal with those Antarctic roads

Welcome to SAU, and I doubt anyone has anything in stock in Aus (so, importing something from Japan will be the go, but pricey). Also the ADM and JDM cars have different front and rear bumpers so anything that fits locals won't fit imports

That part Rezz listed is in stock at a few places including Just Jap https://justjap.com/products/nismo-heritage-v-spec-ii-boot-lid-decal-84896-05u61-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr, around $170AUD. I'd probably be cutting one myself at that price. BTW OP is in Hong Kong, you really should add that to your profile so people understand constraints when they respond

For an rb26, yes it is 446-466 For rb25 there is a smaller bolt, it is 142-152 (from r33 manual):

*that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula

I'm pretty sure that is just straight AI generated word soup, where did you receive that ad (facebook)? They misspell Pirelli twice, no human eyes looked at that before it was posted. Incidentally, I am running the chinese pirellis on my V37 and they are.....OK....I didn't go looking for them, they were just what the shop had in stock in the tall size that car needs. LIke any brand, you really can't trust the brand's reputation to apply to every product they produce. Pirelli make good and crap tyres, all with the same logo stamped on them, and all with an attempt at price premium due to the brand

Now you should better understand the pain our NA brothers and sisters (and themsters) feel every day.

Yeah sorry I meant page EN-62 from the R32 GTR workshop manual, Point 6, which says this about the 2 washers on the tensioner If the crank trigger is welded to the crank timing belt gear, then yes the woodruff key will stop that spinning unless either the key or the crank are badly damaged (and in which case the timing would likely be off/moving anyway). Generally the timing gear slides off the crank OK, but they can be a nightmare on some cranks (generally due to rust etc). If it slides off easily, just consider yourself lucky. If it is really stuck, I've seen people resort to grinding/chiseling them off etc but it is a bad time by then because you are likely to damage the crank as well

Welcome to SAU Thomas, sounds like you'd had a bit of a an unlucky start with the car, hopefully you get some better luck now!

1. No need, it only gets used once then is locked in place by the nut 2. EN-62 point 6 shows the conical washer the other way around (BTW I know we discussed above, I hope you are changing the idler as well, while it is no guarantee the bearing is a actually bad, it looks terrible) 3. I'm not really clear on the question, are you worried because it was easy, not hard, to remove the custom timing trigger? As long as it doesn't spin on the crank (when the bolt is tight) all good 4. Yeah just make sure the brand is easy to read as it rolls past 5. The part number is on the listing under the description, 13023-42L00. Given there is a custom part on there for timing (presumably outside the cover), they may have decided to leave that off; I think I would put the washer in there as it also helps seal the timing case from crap getting in.

No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage. The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out

Disconnecting rods! must have been an unpleasant surprise...

The specific reasons I suggested them in this case are: * OP has a complex issue that needs to be checked out thoroughly, so their engineering approach rather than just chuck whatever on should help * I've found them to be honest about what problems exist, even if the customer doesn't want to know bad news I'm sure there are places that will bolt on stuff and do a tune cheaper, and faster

Its definitely not factory. You'd have to check but the yellow wire is something in the key (so see when it has 12v). The blue wire would have been a switched version of whatever the yellow wire was (eg if yellow is IGN, then blue was something that can be switched on when IGN is on). Whatever it is, it is now inop if nothing is plugged into it.

I'd suggest calling Unigroup, they have a lot of experience with these, access to reliable fabricators etc. Of course it will cost but at least you can trust what they tell you

I've always just put that plug in dry (ie no sealant), it is a tapered thread so do it up "fairly" tight but not VFT and it should be fine

I think that will requires @jamesnorman93 to check their link, or alternatively someone else with time to run the PDF through an OCR tool

So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles. You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)

no, you aren't, but good to see you pop by

In that case it is probably stock. It lives in the navigator side footwell behind the plastic trim just in front of the a pillar.

This. I'm confused by the whole discussion. The only reason you would have a car with e85 only if it was track use and you only ever used e85. All other use cases you add a flex fuel sensor, do the flex tune (you only need to do a couple of % and then interpolate the rest) and then you put whatever the hell you feel like including a mix in the tank and it just works. Want a long drive? fill with 98 Want max zoom? fill with e85 Got a half tank of 98 then find e85 somewhere? Throw it in.

Sounds good....do you have a dyno run for it? Also, sounds like you should get an Ecutek tune shortly to make the most of the hard changes.

That rusty picture gives me nightmares. I can't believe it would not have been cheaper to put plastic tanks in all R32s...... And yes, I meant the factory mount is a kind of baffle...it slides into (and sometimes easily out of) a plastic mount glued to the tank floor