Duncan

I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low

sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble

swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change

Congratulations on your find Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)

That summary is useful (if right!), I was going to say that numbers won't be sequential, they will reset when certain arbitrary changes happened in production.

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

TBH it would be a miracle if someone had that exact information.... Lengthening or shortening a tailshaft depending on gearbox/diff/chassis etc is pretty common, you really just need to fit it up once the box is in place and measure it

Glad to hear your return trip worked OK! Yes, the bonnet release is held by 2 self tapping bolts through the dash and into a bracket behind. As such it also helps keep the dash in place. And yes, small wind deflectors used to be pretty common, and the factory double sided tape is a nightmare to remove when new, and worse so 30 years later. You need some solvent like metho or a eucalyptus oil, a scraper of some sort and patience. On my stagea I got the tape off but damaged the hard trim underneath in many places scraping too hard. You might find the seat is a rego issue too (not sure on current vic rules), because a fixed back stops people exiting the rear seat; might require registration as a 2 seater or replacement of the driver's seat with a tilting one

what size was the return line?

All the best with the new job! Seems mechanicing for race teams is a bit like joining Qantas because you like travel; they take advantage of your enthusiasm. But still, should be an amazing way to pick up skills and good habits. Also, the shed looks great including the covered area out the front....just need to fill it with more tools and benches now

I think painting (or better, powercoating the plenum and turbo inlet pipes re pretty common, although in your car's case putting them standard colour might suit I can't find a full dressed pic of our race car's motor, but here it is half together in yellow/purple to match the exterior colour

You certainly should Is the capacity difference in vq25 vs vq35 due to bore as well as stroke?

well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot. Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car

I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.

Unfortunately this is a bit like arguing if you prefer blondes or brunettes....you will get people who strongly hold either view. My observation is I have had good results racing on MCA golds (spring led) but personally find Gary's approach of lighter springs and heavier bars is more predictable over mixed or rough surfaces like in rally (or an Australian road)

Actually I think you will probably still run into an issue as the consult connector is unusual and most workshops won't have that available (everything modern is OBD). It might require a trip to a friendly nissan dealer who does have the right connector (but may not be interested in helping). Alternative is remove the airbag globe and disconnect the airbag computer, if that is legal

I agree with GTSBoy's earlier post, an increasing missfire when hot is a good description of an issue I've previously had with the ignitor module. I understand these days you can get coil kits which do away with it (noting you have just spend on the loom and coils which is a pain).

I'm not saying it's simple, but I'd never put a moment's thought into how to improve it

I'm a little surprised there is no rear bar on your car, any sign that it was there but removed (mounting holes on the control arms and subframe?) While there are differing opinions on sway bars vs spring rates, I am much happier with the stock boatlike handling being improved with relatively light aftermarket springs and reasonably heavy sway bars at each end. It kind of depends what your expectations are from the handling, but it is likely just adding a sway bar won't transform a big wagon into a track weapon

So many questions in one post You can tell if the fuel lines are the right way around because it will only run the right way. Also the feed should be very firm for about 5 sec when you turn the key on or are cranking and the return will be squishier. Also the feed has the fuel filter in it. Having said all those things, it is soooooooooo common to put them on wrong way around. I had a problem on a recent rebuild where the injectors had gummed up sitting around....might be worth getting them run through an injector cleaner. A rebuilt engine will almost always smoke enough to think you have set it on fire, from oily/greasy finger marks on the manifold....only stop if you see flame not smoke finally.....never let an engine idle when running it in, other than to get it up to temp and do some basic leak checks. Once it is running you need to get out and drive it at different rpm levels (say 500rpm apart up to about 5000) and with at least some load. A good dyno operator can do that in about 30 min but generally due to different conditions on a road you might need 100klm. Don't just drive on a freeway either, find some hills or something for load

well....glad to hear that worked out and thanks for coming back with the info. No idea how stock cams themselves could be an issue but at least it is sorted

As well as the thread you were linked for visual differences, you can use a VIN lookup tool to confirm the model code is correct, eg https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h I'm not clear on what makes a car more valuable for collectors because making money from owning a car seems so unlikely in my life....but I'd guess original paint (not just colour), original engine and no modifications from factory would be key things.

Great to hear from you Gary

The pressure switch should be inline with the + (I assume, or possibly the -) to the compressor. PDM can supply it power at all times when AC switch is on and throttle is less than say 80%, the pressure switch will just cut the circuit any time its threshold is reached.

Ha, had to go back to the start to check....4 pages and 3 years, sounds about right for a quick RB rebuild Re no spark or fuel.....can you confirm this is a rebuilt engine being put back in the same car, and that it was running fine when removed? Lots of potential reasons for it not to be triggering properly....