Duncan

wow 2mil utube views. the guy's a brilliant driver but that is commericalised rubbish. at least they didn't try for understated product placement

could also be the inner or outer rack ends for the rear steer, or the rear ball joints at the hub. Just because you lock hicas doesn't exclude movement/wear in the other parts. But I'll agree with Gary, alignment is most likely the problem

top work, well done

[jedi mind trick] there is no s14 spaceframe on my105 [/jedi mind trick]

hot/cold sensor is very non-specific. are there any errors showing on the ECU? try plugging in a PFC and going to sensor check. Since its a 34 I'm going to guess it will be showing THRO error which is for the little map sensor at the rear of the plenum. The sensor itself is pretty reliable but the loom it it often fails - therefore $900 from jp would not help.....

godzilla motorsports. intake temp 56o, max power 519hp (and why on earth hp in Aus unless they want the number to look bigger?) 389kw CNJ intake temp 27o, max power 283kw mercury motorsports intake temp 25o, max power 514hp (same again, why?) 386kw anyway, unless you've asked for or noticed major changes in the tunes, all you have demonstrated is dyno readings are a pretty meaningless comparison. The the 2nd tune feel like it had 40% less power? like Damzo, I'm wondering what made you prefer one shop over the others - if you are worried about forum rules just call them shop 1, 2 or 3

or...you can check out the black box under the dash next to the steering column with about 3-5 wires plugged in to it. Unplug it wiht the ignition off, then turn it back on, put it in reverse and make sure the beep is gone.

put it in drive mate, works every time

lol that's in the running for post of the month funny how this thread had 90% ross users, the other thread was the other way around. And no-one has had any trouble with either (except that test item someone mentioned elsewhere).

bottom line is they don't get the crowd numbers, merch sales and support category entry fees like the do in mainland rounds. so cockrane just keeps making up a plausable reason to cancel it andmove to a famous track like "PERTH CITY TELSTRA 300!!!11ty"

33 GTR!

so....what do you need to do this for?

swaybar fitting was probably too easy to get its own thread, so I will try in 3 easy steps: jack up you car and put it on stands on LEVEL ground undo the links at either end of the swaybar where they connect to the lower control arm, undo the 4 bolts that hold the bracket for the sway bar, and remove the sway bar. then, as the workshop manual says...."installation is the reverse of removal" this is one easy job. personally I wouldn't try bushes myself without the right tools and knowledge, there are some tricks with pressing out and back in, to me its one of the jobs that it is easier to pay fo.

that loom you got is the one that does starter, alternator, gearbox switches, battery etc lives on the chasis side. what is the part # for the loom you have? looks like 24079-05U01 to me. If so the engine harness with knock sensors is 24077-05U21 and it lives on the engine side, and connects to the main engine loom at the rear of the fuel raill. And if you have 2 of the wrong one....send me a price, its one of the few looms i haven't replaced yet

Sorry Genelle I hadn't set it up properly, will do so now. Ash the donation was made in cash to the club so I will sort it out with Christian

we had nothing but trouble until we changed to proper trailer tyres. haven't had a single tyre problem in the 3 years and 000s klms since

hey there are still 4 weeks to next round, it will be back then for sure.

very sorry to hear that, you've probably done more races in a skyline than anyone on here. but in the end racing's about competing, there is no reason to run around on your own at the back the viper and exige will be a real step up, more reliable, and probably cheaper over time

yeah the ute's always running fine I'l be there but no race car, that last blow up was nasty the bottom end needs to be cleaned out properly.

every 12 months at most, unless you manage to boil it - if you do change it straight away. unfortunately the better quality the fluid, the more water it absorbs, so the more often you have to change it. cheaper stuff might last a couple of years in the average mum's camry

lol surely you knew drag boy wouldn't know what to do when the corners arrived. is it all go for FRiday? Looks like mine has missed 0ot again

mmmm........fibreglass skyline...... i cannot wait to grab the angle grinder and cut this donor off at the a pillar and c pillar

very much so in my experience. but there is only room for 1mm oversize in the 26 head

totally agreed. if your old motor spun a bearing chuck the oil cooler out. there are just too many little places for bits of bearing to lodger to bother over $200. While you are throwing things out replace the little oil to water cooler where the filter mounts as well.

It'll be a small cylinder in the sandwich plate or oil filter mount with a spring that opens at the right temp. easy to spot, ones without thermostats are a simple filter mount with inlet and outlets