Duncan

I see what you posted, but how could a warning light be going on and off if there is no sender for it? The only other explanation is that the wire that used to go to the sender from the warning light is earthing somehow in the loom or at the connector, or that you have connected the warning light wire to something (maybe the temp sender?).

Whoa, I know Im working too much but that seemed quicker than 6 weeks Awesome winter weather this week, -3 overnight and sunny, calm 10 during the day, love it

There would be multiple options in Sydney, I'd see if Gary at Just Jap could help.

Good news. Leave the AFM on there until you move to the Link, it will use MAP instead

If you look closely, you can actually pinpoint the moment Dose's heart broke

Also possible you have a fuel pump or regulator issue, it runs OK when it is trying to be rich when cold, but runs badly/lean once it is trying to run normal. Put a fuel pressure gauge into the feed line and check that too.

4 GTRs in 2025....you must be a billionaire

It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair

The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.

It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far

That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)

I saw a car just like this stopping at Harvest for coffee this morning

It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....

So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think. You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest. On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.

Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):

Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night. Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.

hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet). Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator

wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?

nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping

Final thought for now. Obviously the reason I was in there was to check everything is OK cooling wise, pull out the radiator to flush it etc, but I have to say the factory has done a hell of a lot of thinking about air management in a way they never did back in the R chassis days. The Redsport/400rs have (from engine forward) 2 large shrouded fans - radiator (incl AT cooler) - AC condenser - Intercooler Heat Exchanger and Oil cooler. There are shrouds and foam around everything to keep it pretty well sealed, which is good in that they have it sorted from factory, and bad in that I can't make any meaningful improvements there. The second red sport pump water pump is mounted in front of the rad in the airflow, so I will see if there is somewhere else I can stash that (unlikely, it is tight in there). The horns which are also in the rad airflow will be moved somewhere else, and hey who needs 2 when 1 would work For track days, I can also remove the lights which would block some airflow. Factory has already taken the smart option of ducting all air that went through the oil cooler down and out of the engine bay. This pic is taken from below looking up, so air comes through the cooler at the top of the pic then hits the shroud and is directed down and out of the engine bay through the engine bay lower cover Which of course is good for oil temps, but doesn't help the rad as it diverts 10-20% of airflow away So, no big improvements to be made here, I'll flush the rad out and put it all back together.....

Next..... That escalated quicker than an Elon and Donald break up! I'll post up a specific DIY for radiator removal on these, but all I'm saying is that if you get a workshop to change your radiator for any reason and they give you a $1000 bill for it, go and hug them and thank them for not charging all the hours it took.....what a bastard of a job. I'll make some adjustments as I put it all back for faster access in the future, but it was a nightmare.

So this car is not top of the (very long) list at the moment, but as the weather was terrible for the outside jobs and the next steps on Neil's car are business day jobs (get hold of engine specs and tune it), I spent some time on this car yesterday. First priority, work out why the LED hi beams I added were not working. This is a major one this time of year because I'm travelling at dusk and after dark to and from work and there is a lot of wildlife to avoid. So, I was this far in: When I finally remembered there is a switch on the dash. Which was turned off. And, when turned on, the lights work as expected. Gregging it! BTW, yes, in these cars you need to remove the windscreen cowl to remove the battery. At least the wiper can stay on.

Yikes. What does it have now, pedal box and no ABS?

Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service. There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)

Looks like whiteline don't do springs any more, part# used to be 70191 from a search. Any spring for a 32/33 GTR should fit, just look for something factory not lowered/firmer unless that is your goal