Duncan

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power. There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

understood....I was running 12 psi on the standard turbo for 180kw....standard intercooler, intake, ECU etc just an exhaust. Oh, and some nice big sticky tyres

You can easily determine if it is actually a BOV problem by blocking off both valves temporarily and seeing if the issue still occurs....a blanking plate from cutting up a coke can is the traditional method.

Back in the day there was a few of us with 180-200kw R33 GTSTs being very reliable for road and track day use for years.....but then 400 became the new 200 and 600 became the new 400 and everyone has expensive, broken projects. There is nothing wrong with a lightly modified standard setup for years of reliable fun

If you have an aftermarket ECU, a log of AFM, Boost and TPS might help. But frankly, a standard GTR is no response king compared to a modern turbo car

Standard turbo, and no boost controller? It would make about 180-200kw, more if you add a boost controller and are willing to blow up the turbo

So, testing after the adjustment, it seems to be about what I was after. With an empty tank it showed 81ohms and dead empty on the gauge. Add 20l and it was off the bottom of the gauge but still on E (76ohm), which is pretty similar to factory which sows E for 13l (and should also stop the surging until E....will check and see) I didn't get a resistance at 40l because the float was fouling on the fuel pump wires, had to pull it all out again and route it better At 60l it shows about 2/3 full (23ohms) I'll check it again when it is full at a servo, (76l per manual) but looks like pretty much what I was after.

So, I disconnected and extended the fuel return, and then jumped the relay to pump it out. The pump mounting is excellent when not moving on level ground, it pulled all but 2l out of the tank (the 32 GTR factory pump states it is empty with 13l remaining in the tank. I checked the sender, and very similar to factory it runs from 6ohms full to 82ohm empty, so that was not the issue, however the float hit the bottom of the tank before it hit the stop on the sender, and it hit the upper stop on the sender before it reached the roof so some "adjustment" was in order, Using the un-patented "angle o matic" I figured mounting at 75o instead of 90o should give the range I wanted (ie, showing empty at about 1/4 tank when surging starts, and showing full then the float is on the roof of the tank. So, I modified the mount to hold the sender at that angle and put it back in the tank

So, I figured since weed season is over for 6 months and the stagea was in the shed, I might as well take on the issue with the sender. Annoyingly the Frenchy's Performance Garage fuel hat and baffles (version 2, not current) deletes the low fuel warning light, and although it comes with a new sender, this is what it shows for a full to the brim tank: And this is what it shows when the pump starts surging in corners (to be fair, this is an issue with the baffling not the pump mount or sender level)

So the good news is the new fuse holder has been fine for 2 months of summer, absolutely no fuel issues. Until, 30klm from home Sunday night, the engine stopped on the highway and would not restart. Fuse and holder were good but with limited tools there was not much I could do on the side of the freeway. Anyway....some time later (about 1am)....the NRMA dropped the car back home, and I had a look at it Saturday. Turns out the Fuel pump relay had died. It was a sneaky failure, the relay still gave a good click when 12v was applied across the coil, but it didn't actually connect the main contactors. I did have a spare in the shed, swapped it out and all good. If it fails again I'll swap it out for a solid state on, for now I'm just adding a relay to the onboard spares collection

Yeah I did hear of a few barra conversions starting....never heard of too many actually completing. There isn't really much benefit of the engine they came with, and the barra is a big engine for a relatively small engine bay. It will be far "easier" to +T your GT, that is a well worn route. Even then it will still cost more than you expect so start saving!

I can't be sure about the pad because my fronts are a porsche 4 spot not standard, but Bendix does show the same pad for R32 vspec/R33/R34 brembos and 350z Track: Brembos: https://www.bendix.com.au/products/db1520 I did a fair bit of sprint racing (up to 20min) with DTC-60 on the front and HT10 on the rear they were excellent. They did not work from cold so don't use them on the street unless you are OK with that "oh f**k I'm not going to be able to stop for that roundabout" feeling. They took abuse like this and kept working fine. However, these days I am running Winmax, equivalent performance but a fair bit cheaper.

yeah aint that the truth! I would still double check all of the heights and fork operation, and replace the throw out bearing while it is all apart.....depending how long the car sat without use it might be an age problem (if that is even a thing with clutches!) but it could also have been slipping a little for a long time

You need to check that the earth ring near the ignitor is properly earthed to the head, from factory the ignitor and coil earth are part of the coil pack cover mounting, and you won't get spark unless it is properly earthed.

Definitely no gap is acceptable between engine and gearbox, I'd get it on a hoist, take the box off and check carefully before attempting to put it on again. Could be the fouling on the dowels on the engine, could be you have a manual instead of auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank, could be the input shaft was already bent (or it has been bent while installing), not sure what else, I've not dealt with an auto rb

well that would explain why it had a mechanical fuel pump that mine doesn't

Pretty poor effort from the seller, unless they were clear the car would not run as supplied. I don't think the car will run properly, if at all, on a standard ECU. Apart from anything else you should confirm if you have standard injectors and that the air flow meters wiring is connected. And I suspect your ignition issue might be masked by the ECU issue too, so the troubleshooting is going to be difficult. Perhaps you could ask the seller what ECU it was running previously, I was assuming Link or Haltech as they make plug ins and you didn't mention the ECU wiring had been messed with

How to change ATTESA Nitrogen Cannister - by Deza3000

Thanks, that is a really valuable post, I've moved the thread to the DIY section and added it to the DIY threads index I take it skipped step 2 and just loosened and removed it with the oil filter wrench?

I'm not familiar with how a Nistune physically looks, but if I remember from your other thread it has an aftermarket turbo...therefore it is very likely your current ECU already has a nistune on it as the standard factory one is unlikely to be happy with a bigger turb. I think it is unlikely the tomei one is any good unless you can confirm your can nistune it before you buy it....maybe check out what they look like physically. I guess it should at least confirm if the car starts and runs but basically any of the japanese fixed rom tunes are pretty much worthless these days But, depending on budget and what you want to do, an aftermarket ecu is probably a better choice long term, things like powerFC are very cheap these days for example, or a link/haltech etc plug in would give you better flexibility/features/protections/logging

Firstly, great to hear you are enjoying the new car! I'm not a gearbox expert but I agree the hydraulics look OK. As you have a pull clutch it is possible the release bearing or fork are disconnected from the pressure plate, but you should be able to see/correct that through the gap in the bellhousing. If that is the problem you should be able to reconnect it through the bellhousing gap as you would when putting the gearbox back in. This is the easier problem but less likely as you would also have issues changing gears on the move unless you are rev matching (and you didn't mention you were). Is the issue definitely only 1st and reverse? can you choose second while stationary with engine running and clutch pedal down? That would imply it is some sort of selector/linkage issue which is going to need gearbox off to fix

ugh, almost a year since I posted about a car that is meant to be a daily driver.....suffice to say it still is not running OK and I'll post up once I've got it sorted. In the meantime, Eric has done a community service by showing what in inside a VQ hybrid engine....and he didn't even have to pull it apart to do so (noting, he did indeed pull apart what was left). Makes me feel much better about the state mine is in, all those oily bits are still inside mine.

yeah, I genuinely don't understand how it can use that much fuel over that distance, we do get that sort of "economy" when racing but that is literally 80%+ full throttle. lt can't just be running "rich" to get there....the engine will missfire under about 10:1 air/fuel so you would notice.

So I can't speak about this specific unit, I've never used it, but I have put a double din android head unit (ATOTO S8) in the Stagea) Firstly, this is an awesome solution to the problem where we can't get english head units any more, so I think that probably trumps everything else I'm about to say. A modern car just runs too much through the nav unit to have Japanese only in a 20k+ car. Also the physical button inclusion is important and excellent in that kit....no comment on the look/style though A couple of things to consider that I learned from my andriod install * open android head units are absolutely awesome compared to the limited options most brands offer, or compared to carplay/android auto. The ability to install any app you want is excellent, eg I use Realdash a lot in the Stagea * you almost certainly don't need more than 128GB memory. Check your phone memory usage and exclude pics/videos etc, the apps and their data use stuff all space....saved you $400. * the reverse camera quality in this kit - looks like it uses the factory cam so you'll get crappy old SD video on a big shiny screen; not sure if they have an HD reverse camera option * be sure to check the actual 4g (or 5g) bands they support. Australia is a bit strange and most generic head units don't actually support the local frequencies (also keep in mind you will have to bin the head unit when 4g shuts down because it is useless without data access) * consider the time it takes to load from start, particularly to show the reverse camera. ATOTO make a big fuss about the fact it resumes when you start the car and if you start it and hit reverse straight away the camera is always there.....if you have to wait for a 30 second boot up every time you start the car and reverse it will get old very quickly * bluetooth phone quality can be an issue. The stagea is a very noisy car but the ATOTO bluetooth was useless....I had to reinstall the separate Parrot phone bluetooth I had removed to get a chance of people hearing me and vice versa * finally, my ears can't really tell but the audio quality can be terrible in these. I had to add an amp and better speakers to the ATOTO is was quiet and tinny. Also, the install vid focussed on how quick you can do it.....you should never do an install with the car on because you are likely to be chasing blown fuses afterwards which is really frustrating...turn the car off and disconnect the battery to save yourself grief. Also keep in mind he didn't install any of the antennas or anything which will be required and are likely to need you to pull lots more of the interior apart to put them somewhere you are happy with

It is a gtst without active diff, right? I'm 99% sure the noise is a pump dying, almost certainly the fuel pump