Duncan

Yep, 90A is just the maximum it can put out, going slightly higher output than standard won't cause problems

Try Hooks at Barrell Bros, he is a skyline guy from way back

I guess they were trying to say the "clock spring" failed, it is the electronic part that let you have wiring in a wheel that turns connected to a steering column that doesn't. The steering wheel airbag won't be working (there will be a procedure you can check with the flashing light to confirm) You can get the specific part number for your car from one of the parts sites like amayama using your VIN#, it will vary depending on model, air bag system, cruise control or not etc. The part lives between the steering wheel and the column. Repair isn't difficult but brand new part is pricey if you can't find second hand

wow, big job to replace then repair! So I can't remember in a 33 GTST, but in a 32 the fog light button turns on the fog lights and tail lights...sounds dumb but you'd be surprised how many times it has caught people out. Assuming you are sure that it is not that, I don't think you can trust colour matching. But in any case you need to start by pulling every fuse until one or more of those issues are fixed, there are very few unfused circuits (eg alternator and starter) so you will be able to narrow it down. Then you need to trace the loom for those circuits, I can't think of any short cut. Reverse lights send the positive power through the gearbox switch so that might help a little in that case. In 32 the fog lights/dash/tail lights positive all go through the dash switch but I'm not sure if that is the same in 33.

What a specific question I am pretty sure the rule of thumb is that your maximum HP is restrictor diameter x10hp....therefore you should should size your turbo for max 380hp (ie, tiny/fast spooling). Unless you follow the tried solution of an accidental air leak downstream from the restrictor of course

Hi Denis, per earlier in this thread (and there is similar info elsewhere), it is unlikely you can get factory seals and clips and will have to go generic replacement. Even if you can get hold of all of the factory moulds the clips that hold them in are not available and yours are almost certainly broken by now. So, all you need is a competent installer who can fit generic seals. The last 2 times I had the seals done, they were not done correctly and came loose (1st time) and are fitted fully but don't sit very well (2nd time). Sorry there doesn't seem to be a better solution out there. Of course, if your retaining clips are not amazingly broken, you can try and refit the factory trims.

classic anyway, rb25 and 26 use hydraulic and solid lifters, not rockers, so no adjustment required (except theoretically for wear in an solid lifter shim over time)

You're a billionaire having 9x R32 front indicators!!!

That is unusual (noting you didn't say what size Walbro it is). What was the pre and post fuel pump fuel pressure. I have Bosch 044 in the race car and Walbro 525 in the Stagea, both with the stock fuel regulator, not issues. BTW Josh good point about the FPCM, I assume that people bypass it when changing the fuel pump by running the fuel pump negative straight to the chassis.....the standard FPCM is calibrated to a good condition standard fuel pump so it might give unreliable results with an aftermarket pump.

Yeah sorry i wasn't clear, so was I. Eg in this kit, the reservoir cap is attached to the pressure bleeder via a standard nitto air fitting, therefore the cap is interchangeable with any other brand pressure bleeder that also uses a nitto fitting (Or, without too much creativity, the fitting could be swapped for another style of air fitting)

The SP pressure bleeder just uses a regular nitto air fitting for the cap, if the motive pressure vessel is the same you can probably grab any brand cap

Interesting. The casting is different (but interchangeable) for R34 RB26 because it used a physically larger crown wheel than could fit in the early model housings, not sure if that is what you are seeing here..... No idea why the block bolt pattern is different though, I've never heard of any sump that wasn't interchangeable on the rb AWD block

Yes, I agree with that logic. I don't know enough about the spec to confirm the list is correct

Well, the speedo sender is trying to work out road speed from the gearbox's output shaft speed...therefore the diff ratio (and tyre height) must be assumed in the speed sender. So, if your car/diff (r34 auto) matches the speed sender you are looking at it will be fine.

It will run fine, as the fuel pressure regulator makes sure the injectors get the right pressure, not the pump. You should check the maximum current draw of the 255 is within the standard wiring's fuse (and therefore wire size), and if not you may want to take the opportunity to replace the factory wiring with a properly fused direct battery feed

Don't worry about the wires so much, you need to make sure the diff is the same ratio as your car or the speedo will be out by the difference.

I'd start by seeing if your auto speed sensor does physically fit. If you go for something from another car it will need to have the same diff ratio to give you the right speed. Also, both the neutral and reverse sensors seem to have their wires broken off too...whoever you go this from really looked after it. You probably don't need the neutral switch but without the reverse one you won't have working reverse lights

There definitely are 2 bush sizes, I've been caught out by that too....but that won't affect whether the shifter is retained, it would either not fit (large bush in small hole) or be super loose (opposite). However, I've never understood why, but there are 2 snap rings on the shifter....

Funnily enough, R31 cable has been the recommended one for FFP on an RB for ages I'm running an R31 cable in my FFP Rb30 stagea, but FWIW the throttle body is the other way up, ie the actuator is on the engine side not guard side.

Looks more like a Camry Wagon to me Welcome to SAU

They use rb26 rods, not an rb26 crank. The throw of the crank determines the capacity of the engine (rb25 vs rb26) as the bore diameter is the same

Great to hear it is sorted....it is amazing how much bleeding through is required some times

I reckon your request is perfect for one of the new visual AIs, give it a try and post up results....

Same to you, may 2024 be full of working cars!

You totally should have posted up during the adventure, I'm not in Sydney anymore but I'm sure some help would have arrived. I've also had problems recently with fuel hats/wiring/fusing for one of those 525 pumps, see my stagea thread for most recent chapter including some FPG instalments But, like Dose said, I think it is critical to stay away from solder in any automotive environment. Its not the solder itself, its the heat affecting the wiring directly next to the solder site, it goes brittle and fails over time. And as you noted, passing wire through the fuel hat leads to wicking of fuel and damage over time. What I don't get is, you are only running an LS. Surely some standard or slightly larger pump would be enough for the power it makes? If you want to stick with a high current pump, change to a modern FPG hat or similar (they have clearly been learning over time with their revised designs, I'd stay away from older ones).