Duncan

not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking

I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on

wow that is super detailed!

Re the injectors, yes it would missfire but what you are looking for is current behaviour (no start without full throttle) stops and the car starts without throttle (then idles with a miss)

Looks like a bit of a handful....either plenty of chooch or maybe 4wd not working that well? BTW you twisted my arm, I booked in to 27-Feb as well

Sorry Kevin, didn't mean to raise it, just one of those things that still bugs me after all this time It doesn't make sense that it is a tune issue if it did start OK for a while....having said that this is my cranking table with half the injector you have (550s) BTW Dose, great movie

After you start it by holding the throttle wide open, does it then idle correctly without throttle or does it stall? If not it sounds like one of the injectors might be stuck partly open. You could also drain your oil and check for a heap of fuel in it. If it doesn't idle there is something wrong with the tune (unlikely, because it worked when it was tuned), or something changed on your car like the AAC or cold start valve no longer working correctly. BTW, I know we are a multi-cultural forum now, but "gas" makes no sense as a term for the pedal that opens a petrol engine's throttle, either directly or electronically.

True....I've not done a bearing in a borrowed car yet, but I've sure as hell killed a clutch in one What's the car's history? Looks like a fair bit done to it already

Actually I need to book the V37 for a test day, who is running it? And yeah just let me know if you are down night before or after and we can kill some beers That is my super power

Oh man, I showed the nephew a DVD the other day.....cassette would have blown his mind

lol that caught up a year quickly! good to see you on the track again, hoping to do it myself one day

Nah he was mega organised, the sort of guy that put (almost) every tool back every day, it made trying to work out where things were up to possible. My shed needs a swedish death clean, I would have >20 part done jobs, its particularly hard to collect all required parts for a job ahead of time when you can't just pop into a shop and grab things

Yeah dust and squeal tend to go together, because it is the dust getting caught somewhere that causes the vibration that is the squeal...

Actually that's a good point, shouldn't you be in FNQ putting up a bridge for the Bruce Highway?

It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link? If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue

haha funny enough I did ask him wtf he had been up to with the electrics....but no answer

Jousting sticks! Tell 'im he's dreamin!

I don't really know general street pads too well, but there is no reason you can't get a low dust, long wearing, no squeal pad that works for those calipers at a reasonable price....they would just be a low end to medium price daily style pad. If new pads don't have much bite or they loose it over time, it is probably just the pad glazing up which you can fix by giving them a good thrashing every now and then (or get the mechanic to deglaze them at next service) Track or semi track pads are where you have to put up with excessive dust (and potentially squealing as a side effect of that) in return for good bite and performance when very hot. Street pads have nothing like that sort of punishment, even long downhills with the brakes on are easier than a track session

lol yeah I'll check that, reminds me of the LDV thread! I don't think that is the problem here, the starter doesn't even solenoid click. I did do a super quick test by removing the starter motor's power cable from the engine bay fuse box and the battery voltage was still 10v, so something super fishy is going on. BTW here is a R33 fuse box table I threw together from a few sources....use at own risk! R33 Fuse Box and Sources.xlsx

That seems like a very special issue! Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)

Like a Stagea, but not as cool! Hope you have enough garage space for this, or is something going to leave to make way for it?

Do you have a picture? I assume it is a breather for gearbox oil as it expands, it should have a vacuum line run nice and high in the engine bay (R32 GTR has it on a top bellhousing bolt)

Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)

From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v. I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.

3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access