Duncan

Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well. No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner

Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350. Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now

So, starting with the rear brakes. They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided

So it turns out that is indeed what happened, and as Mel is not taking up racing and nor is their only child Lizzy the Great Dane, I am tidying the car up for sale. As far as I can tell it is pretty much ready to go to the dyno for run in and tune, but I'll update in here once I know more.

Time for bonnet pins!

Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)

Yeah, having tried all of those methods including BBQ+recipro/hacksaw, I ended up buying a bush press kit under $150 that works well, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355967727167?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=sfmmuhxgqhm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It basically has a range of pushers and cups with threaded rods between to press out a range of large bushes. The problem with any sawing solution is minimising damage to the subframe side, although it probably needs a quick sand afterwards no matter what solution you try due to damage

I think a lot of you hit the real issue, these brands aren't making cars at a competitive price. Lucky that Foxxconnnn didn't buy Nissan otherwise the cars would be built by 13 year olds doing 15 hour shifts like iPhones. This reminds me of British Leyland. 5th largest global manufacturer in 1968, collapsed by 1975 with only a couple of brands escaping to be owned by Chinese brands today. Along they way they vacuumed up MG, Jaguar, Daimler, Rover, Land Rover, Austin, Morris, Wolseley, Mini, Triumph, Riley, Alvis, Yes, they had other problems but the basic issue was the wrong production (and therefore retail) price. If you are a car manufacturer and you haven't noticed China coming, its already too late.

I can't help with the clearance question, I've always taken my machine shop's advice on that. It is worth considering that a shop that does that every day for road cars will be looking for as good as they can get off the shelf, not perfect. If you want more careful race style "blueprinting" then you need a race shop to measure/machine the engine. I do have an opinion on line boring the block though....don't do it unless you have to. The crank centre moves higher but the oil pump stays in the same place when you line bore the block.

Hey that reminds me, are you changing your forum name to "The Hairdresser" too?

Yeah I agree. I have the Plat Pro on the race car because plug in was important, but I wouldn't buy one for a current car. While they are still happy to sell them (pretty expensive), they don't support them any more; no software updates since about 1996, limited or no support for newer features on the CAN etc etc

Yeah, I probably would, because not everyone has that sort of coin to drop on a car. Depends if you want the last 1/10th of potential out of the platform Plus, these days the cars are more like classics than a leading edge race car, so why do all that work when a nice pair of twins can still bring a smile

Great write up Callum, I'd have to say other than the bonnet stay (that was a new one to me), your experience probably isn't that far outside average.....these are old cars now and are their days as a cheap daily are long gone (if they ever existed).

That is the serial number of your block

Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems

Yeah I agree, 10k give or take. It'll go good after though.

300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile

Thanks for sharing the tips. I'd add for point 3 that a stubby 14mm spanner is a good alternative for the starter motor bolts. If it is too tight to get with a short spanner you can loop a piece of rope or similar around the end and pull it from below the car to get more leverage

they look even worse with tri-spokes

Nah that's this thread....otherwise why are we talking about the most melted looking car since the AU falcon?

Thank god Matt understands this thread, should have added a pic to help us all though My favourite was the s-cargo though (I see what they did there) Now *that* is some proportions

Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in

From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.

Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc. So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.

@PranK