Duncan

Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!

Yeah confirmed they are Nismo 555s, found the boxes in the spares with the factory injectors in. Yeah the AAC has been relocated to allow reuse of the factory brake booster line, and yes confirmed it has a 1 way valve in it. Unfortunately the one on the car is cracked, I'll need to replace it. Pretty sure I've got all the AAC plumbing correct in my previous post, but I am going to source some new fittings with 90o angles to help with the hose routing and also one really specific moulded shape for the AAC intake to cold start hose (will raid the back of our local repco when I get a chance and work out some combo that works) One of the big things I learned in the GTR is you need to be able to get your hands all around the bay when something goes wrong. I've done a bunch of re-routing now and it should be much more practical now. Also got the BOV mount re TIG-ed by the local engineering shop so that should be good to go now. Never got to the fuel pump because of some life stuff today, but will pull it to confirm it is suitable for 300rwkw when I get a chance

Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.

It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)

OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)

I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better.

2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder. He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay) Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)

OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed

Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine

Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)

I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.

Did a coolant pressure test overnight and it was back at 0 by morning....after some stuffing around I worked out it was the water return fitting at the turbo that was leaking, it all held pressure correctly once that was nipped up. No brand mark on the radiator but I'd bet it is a 40mm cooling pro, with standard clutch and fan I do need to remember to change the water out for coolant once the engine is run in but otherwise cooling looks all good.

A few other things to round out the chassis mechanical checks. Diff is nice and full of new oil, pretty sure it is Castrol VMX (I run the same on Award's recommendation). I didn't pull the cover to check, but I'm 90% sure the diff centre is a nismo mechanical (old school, not the gt pro). Gearbox is also nice and full of fresh oil, not sure what it is but not redline. Tailshaft bearing looks OK and a tailshaft loop is in place

Front lower control arm is standard with new ball joints, tension rod looks like JJR spherical. Front upper control arm is standard with adjustable bushes in the outside end Rear arms are all nismo, surprisingly all the bushes at either end look standard but in good condition Subframe has standard bushes with lock collars HICAS has a lock bar with standard ball joints at the hub end

Next, shocks/springs/swaybars It has Sydneykid valved Bilsteins with HKS pillow ball hats all round. Springs are Eibach race springs on adjustable height platforms, with helper springs in the rear to stop rattling. These are 250 all around but easy to change for something else if required. Swaybars are powdercoated blue but would be Selby's/Whiteline solid adjustables, 21mm rear and 24mm front. Bushes and links in good condition All in good condition, no sign of leaks/damage etc

yeah for sure.....remember to put your tools away at the end of each day kids! Actually it has been kinda nice working on the car, lots of memories of good times. I can pretty much hear him telling me off for stuff still.

FWIW, as well as a basic immobiliser/remote unlock (all basic units give you those 2 things), I would also install a 4g tracker in any car I cared about. Just hide it anywhere that won't be found in a rushed look and preferably get something with a built in battery backup so it stays online for a while when the battery is removed or flat While its not a car, when our car trailer was stolen in that den of crime Sydney about a decade ago, the cops were watching from the bloke's neighbour's lawn within about 2 hours until he started swapping the plates and putting up the gumtree ad. Obviously it is still not undefeatable (eg parking it up for a few days somewhere without sky sight) but it greatly improves your chances of getting it back quickly and with less damage

I think the solution Pac posted in the other thread is the way to go with the top screen; I have an ADM Q50 and I only use it for 2 things: 1. Reverse or front camera as triggered automatically by Reverse selection or the front sonars, and you can also call up the front left (or front) camera when parking by hitting the camera button on the centre console if necessary 2. Navigation. I can assure you that getting hold of a 10 year old nav system is utterly useless. The ADM system still has Inifiniti dealers marked (always give me a good laugh), is missing all new freeways, uses fixed speed by road type to determine arrival time, no traffic/re-routing, no speed cameras, no user reported cameras etc etc you get the idea So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function 1 above when required because it runs within the head unit. The other modern alternative is the latest version of the Tesla screen like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007511322502.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.33cefEZifEZibq&algo_pvid=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461&algo_exp_id=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!2181.36!1265.19!!!9834.81!5704.20!%402101c71a17362022663526105e36d7!12000041077843545!sea!AU!163137612!X&curPageLogUid=F9811g8oqx5H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A But I haven't looked into whether it is compatible with Australian 4G bands yet so it may require a separate 4g dongle to provide data

In the 32 race car, I basically run what Gary told me and it is lovely across a range of conditions which is what I needed. I've got revalved bilsteins, adjustable solid sway bars, adjustable bushes all round. Just looking at Neil's R33 GTST and it has pretty much the same on board, Gary Bilsteins, Selby/whiteline sway bars. Gary knows suspension generally and these cars specifically very well across street, street/track and track only use and gives a very well balanced set up. Just be aware his preference is for light springs and heavy sway bars, there is another school of though (eg MCA) that prefer lighter swaybars and heavier springs/shocks. The evo I raced had that setup and it was also very nice so there are multiple ways to skin cats.

hmmmm...what does the service manual say though? Also, are you changing the filter at the same time or not, that generally makes a 500ml difference

If they ain't reset buttons.....its going to be annoying when the oil light comes on I'd guess it is aftermarket, not even dealer fitted option because it looks pretty low cost....you'd have to trace it out under the dash

But, probably that happened to the last person too, which is why the RTV was there.....if you aren't putting a new gasket in you will need to seal the old gasket back to the metal surface with something, the gaskets will generally only work properly for a single use as they set/harden in that shape

What is with the horrible blue and white bit in the centre of the wheels, didn't that come off with some scrubbing?

Not sure how broadly you define Northside but Castle Hill Exhaust are still around and could sort it.

I haven't done this as I still use the factory cluster, but I do know the circuits for the flash vs on for hi beam are separate which is likely the issue. The ON runs full power through the switch and the flash uses the relay in the engine bay. I'd hit the wiring diagram per GTSBoy's suggestion