Duncan

Looks like a great platform to work on

I think your new "gtst" left the factory as a gts....maybe check the VIN

FYI it is a brake system warning light not handbrake warning light....happily handbrake is just the most common reason we all see it

sorry, did you say bosch washer or borg warner

not ideal...so engine shop to find the problem? did they supply the block or did you give it to them? at least nothing ran and broke.

I can't answer the first question, although I assume paint shops can get hold of that formula. I can confirm that it was standard for Nissan during that period to use a different/duller colour on the non exterior panels

kids

haha I did actually mean Skyline not Infiniti....but now I've looked I can't find any for sale so you would need to wait for an import.

clearly the answer to that question is V37 hybrid. Right price, good on fuel, goes good

100% you should get the machine shop to grub screw the crank, even just that light linish you did will create crap in the oil galleries; the cost of another rebuild is no way worth the risk

Good persistence, and thank goodness there are (better) aftermarket options to keep these cars working today

You need to ask the year, not the month, with amayama these days

I would (do) always get a machine shop to measure crank and bores, choose bearings and gap the rings. (noting, I generally check it when it comes back too). There is just too much to get wrong causing issues later. Of course, plenty of people slap in bearings and go again in the wide world....but to me these aren't some old hilux and don't get driven as such

funnily enough, a car that dies while suddenly driving otherwise fine is a good chance of being electrical, causing the ECU to shut off. I guess you have the standard ECU so it is hard to tell if it has power just by looking. If so, a consult cable and logging software will tell you if that (or many other potential reasons) is happening. I had a similar problem with the Stagea for a while caused by loose wires added at the positive battery terminals

We're going to need a little more information for useful internet mechanicing. Does it stall when you are driving along in gear, when you are stationary or both? does it run roughly at idle? does it pull smoothly all the way to redline if you mash the throttle from say 0-100? And, what did your mechanic do to "fix it"?

45min you should be OK if you start with a full battery and it is not raining or night (headlights).....I managed to drive the stagea about 55min to the middle of nowhere when I discovered alternator was dead. Plus, that was that time we were leading the wakefield 500 by almost a lap at hour 5....when the battery finally gave up since the alternator had been dead for ages. "we was robbed!!"

It might also be a mechanical issue, perhaps try a compression test

Just surface rust....chuck it in an oily environment spinning at 7,500rpm and it will stop

Welcome Kip. You'll be fine. I have a car (well, "truck") that not only does not exist where I live, but I had to have converted from LHD to RHD as well. Both drivetrain and engine are generally R33 GTR, but you can get info here on specific differences

Right, but that is a synchro issue which will not improve moving to a synchro straight cut box (other than the fact you would put new synchros in it). Smurf Blood is the usual way to cover up that issue in the interim (together with shifting a little more carefully/slowly). Therefore, if your box needs a rebuild, rebuild it.

I would not consider changing the box until you know it will break (because you just broke it). Frankly, it is not just about power and torque, the clutch and also user sympathy make a big difference in when it will break, and even a synchro straight cut box is a step backwards in usability (and, it is no faster and not much stronger than a factory synchro helical box)

I'd start with the timing; both the belt itself and potentially any adjustable cam gears. Or, maybe that is why no-one uses journal bearing turbos any more

I can't identify a model number for the caliper, but it doesn't really matter. You should remove a pad and compare it to the DBA catalogue to identify the pad code, and same with the disc, remove it an measure diameter, thickness and offset (distance from mounting face to middle of disc). That will allow you to replace them when required *edit* to add, the mounting for the caliper is almost certainly custom, so it is likely the disc is some sort of standard skyline option, eg vspec 324x32

We have a lot of posts on SAU from over the years, I've never seen an upright snapped at the steering arm.

Are we a beta test site for next gen chatbot?