Duncan

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well. Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k

Can you post of pic of exactly what you mean? Unless you have a fancy aftermarket intercooler, the AC and intake are not connected in any way

Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not! It's well within the service manual specs...but they are very open

So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years). Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake. This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.

OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat

Yeah it was a good result, and confirming the car is full of fluids and all interior etc in, other than fuel. I think a few pages back (maybe many pages!) he mentioned some serious lightening in the doors with the chassis punch, might have been done elsewhere I hadn't seen yet too

Yeah this isn't a super complex shape, but I was still happy to buy instead of fab version 1; very little in a modern can is a flat surface, and that is true here again - the undertray has about 50mm in height differences that I would have had to work out myself. I will probably make something more substantial before it does any rally, I don't think 1mm steel is too much use as a bash plate. There is also cooling to think about, Z1 have done a bit of development and have some air holes and louvers in the shape, will see how that works out too

A little progress; I took the opportunity of an oil change to take a sample for oil analysis, will be interesting to see how it was treated for its first 125,000klm (I know how it has been treated since :rofl:) I went with 5w40 and will see what that does for oil pressure at higher revs. Also fitted the Z1 front undertray....a little more sturdy than the plastic factory one (although I suspect it won't stop a tree stump ) Nicest thing about it really is the 2 bolt "service panel"....a gift to the oil changer compared to removing 14 bolts holding the factory tray.

I think a scissor lift is better/faster in most cases, but I guess it does obstruct access to the centre of the car? BTW I weighed the quick jack. 3.5 tonne model is 50kg for each side. So yes, portable, but not with one finger

*edit* see post below, this is not correct! Not a huge update because still waiting for some fittings for the intake. But I did corner weigh the car, its enough to make a GTR driver cry at 1163kg (race ready except no fuel) Sorry about the terrible pics but I think they are readable With 70kg driver

While I agree I'd start with a bad earth connection issue....I also reckon a new to the car/second hand starter is also cause for suspicion. Can you test it out of the car with a pair of jumper leads? Also, if could be neither....does the engine turn over OK via the crank bolt? It could be an assembly issue and the starter is trying too hard as a result

Yeah for sure, that is a bullet dodged! The hoses into the filter often get mangled when the filter is changed, so a couple of bucks changing them both is money well spent

I'm pretty sure people only buy n1 GTRs to put them in a garage/shed somewhere these days

...and I live a long way from the closest hospital. ...

I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body

Yeah same with the GTR but in practice that is pretty easy because the car is so high, and the stands only go from sill end to sill end so you don't need to wriggle far

yeah this video from about 6:10 shows the process, it is easy but not quick. I'll weigh the frames when I get a chance, they are not impossible, but not easy. I don't want to seem negative, I am happy to have it and use it often.....its just that it isn't a magical solution to making cars hover.

All up I'd guess it is 2-3x slower than jack+stands (when you already know where you are planning to place the stands) because the frames are heavy/hard to move and line up, and you still have to connect the hydraulic lines, start raising it, check adjustment etc. But in practice that is minor, we are talking 2min vs 5min, and being nice and high and very stable definitely makes jobs underneath easier

Here's Neil's car up on mine recently

Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do. No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.

Put v2 of the tune on it today, and ran the performance test with Launch Control on and Traction Control off. Went 5.67 0-100 and 14.05 for 400m which is a fair bit better I also put together a boost/turbo speed/AFR graph. Not sure what the blips in the curve are and the AFRs seem pretty lean on boost compared to what you would do with an RB, I'll talk to the tuner about it This is the temps and oil pressure, at 35o ambient temp for the run. Good to see charge air temp (post turbo) going down not up as speed increases.

Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block. If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years

To clarify what I posted above, I thought you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)

There's no way they left the factory like that. In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other. The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)

It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons. I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!