Duncan

Yeah dust and squeal tend to go together, because it is the dust getting caught somewhere that causes the vibration that is the squeal...

Actually that's a good point, shouldn't you be in FNQ putting up a bridge for the Bruce Highway?

It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link? If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue

haha funny enough I did ask him wtf he had been up to with the electrics....but no answer

Jousting sticks! Tell 'im he's dreamin!

I don't really know general street pads too well, but there is no reason you can't get a low dust, long wearing, no squeal pad that works for those calipers at a reasonable price....they would just be a low end to medium price daily style pad. If new pads don't have much bite or they loose it over time, it is probably just the pad glazing up which you can fix by giving them a good thrashing every now and then (or get the mechanic to deglaze them at next service) Track or semi track pads are where you have to put up with excessive dust (and potentially squealing as a side effect of that) in return for good bite and performance when very hot. Street pads have nothing like that sort of punishment, even long downhills with the brakes on are easier than a track session

lol yeah I'll check that, reminds me of the LDV thread! I don't think that is the problem here, the starter doesn't even solenoid click. I did do a super quick test by removing the starter motor's power cable from the engine bay fuse box and the battery voltage was still 10v, so something super fishy is going on. BTW here is a R33 fuse box table I threw together from a few sources....use at own risk! R33 Fuse Box and Sources.xlsx

That seems like a very special issue! Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)

Like a Stagea, but not as cool! Hope you have enough garage space for this, or is something going to leave to make way for it?

Do you have a picture? I assume it is a breather for gearbox oil as it expands, it should have a vacuum line run nice and high in the engine bay (R32 GTR has it on a top bellhousing bolt)

Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)

From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v. I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.

3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access

OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales

Sounds like you need these two: Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal You can use any of them for anything, just depends what routing is convenient You probably need these too, depends how your boost control works (eg, MAP sensor in the ECU) Plenum post throttle to ECU or Boost controller input (if you have one) Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Control Solenoid (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

I was just going through this on Neil's car (33 gtst). Assuming you are using standard AAC and Cold start valves, you need Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Controller (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate Pre throttle to AAC input AAC input T piece to Cold start input Cold start output to plenum post throttle AAC Output to plenum post throttle AAC Output to brake booster (needs a 1 way valve) Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal Plenum post throttle to Boost controller input (if you have one)

You can bring them in from the first model until Nissan Oz sold them, and then again since Nissan Oz stopped selling them (I think, on the second)

Welcome back, glad to hear life's wheel is turning in the right direction

Awesome pics Rezz, thanks for sharing them Another stop for my "need to do in Japan" list

Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes. They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s

when does it run badly; hot/cold/both, idle/part throttle/full throttle what computer is running it and what data can you get from it?

I don't know....but I can't see how they would be. Different shape chassis and bumper means it is unlikely the reo is interchangeable. Doesn't mean it would be impossible to modify it to fit of course

So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about

lol thanks for the pics but some arrows might have helped for context. If you mean the bit I've badly traced in red, that is a PITA vacuum signal for the power steering pump, only R34 GTT was "lucky" enough to get it. Yes you will need a nipple of the same size somewhere in the intake between the air filter and the throttle or the power steering idle up will not work correctly

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well. Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k