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Everything posted by Duncan
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right, but fundamentally, for a given mechanical setup, you are either using all the torque (and therefore power) it will give, or you are choosing to run it less efficiently. Many tuners will have a practice of identifying peak available torque and then winding it back a couple of % for safety, but unless you are working around a very specific issue like a weak gearbox, there is nothing to be gained by making 20 or 30% less than the engine can
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That is typical (for a rb at least) with a medium to large turbo, noting the format of the graph is probably misleading what you see a little (half portrait width but full height, in landscape it would look quite different) Basically until it hits target boost the torque curve is rising steeply, when that is 4000+ rpm it is not great to drive since almost all of your life is between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm. Once you hit target boost the wastegate opens and torque stops rising so quickly. From there the shape of the curve depends mostly on the cams and where they have a peak vs the rev limiter
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Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Last of the maintenance items for now....not sure why but the drivers side window switch had heaps of wear on the right front and right rear switches Unfortunately, unlike earlier Skylines the controls are bolted to the door trim from the inside. So....off the with door trim. There are bolts or screws: Behind the door handle cover, pop it off from the handle side Under the rubber trim at the bottom of the door pull (also just pops up) Behind the courtesy light at the bottom. Other than that, just window down then pop off the usual selection of push in clips around the perimeter and the trim lifts up Interesting that they have a bolt on cover instead of the old school plastic held on by goop....I guess they prioritised sound levels over price Then, 2 screws and 2 plugs to replace the switch (looks identical to the Fuga/Q70 one incidentally) and put it all back together. Also much better -
I'm really not following....are you saying you want peaky (ie laggy) torque? generally the plan is to get as much as you can, as low as you can so it is usable.
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Welcome to SAU Beanie, I guess you would be looking forward to driving it again at last
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Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me) -
Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird -
Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller -
Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off -
Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
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Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain! -
If you don't have time to watch a regular lap, put aside 0:54 to watch the new outright record....
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Not necessarily shift speed because that is most mechanical/hydraulic not electronic. It should allow modification of shift up and down points and therefore stop the auto shifting when not wanted. On the dyno the other day it consistently changed by 6200 at full throttle 4th gear and the power curve was still rising I spent a bit of time with the paddles on a long drive yesterday and found the opposite to you; mine shifts faster up full throttle in auto while the delay for the paddles requires some learning to plan ahead. It also has an annoying habit of changing back to auto from manual mode at partial throttle (it does hold manual shift with no throttle like long downhills thankfully). So, I'd say they are useful for being in the right gear when you leave a corner, but not much else. Sorry for the off topic....for me the big difference between an infiniti and JDM import is you get a much newer car with the JDM option for the same price or cheaper than local cars
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So these motors don't seem to have as big issues with DI port carbon as others do. I also had a good run with my VK45DD cima, it did develop a light missfire at idle at around 300,000klm so I started using the subaru upper engine cleaner with each oil change and it improved (still happened occasionally) So, my plan with this car is to add a catch can, do upper engine cleaner with every second service (ie every 10,000klm) and see how that goes, I'll pull the intake off sooner or later and have a look at the valves too. On the ECU, you need an Ecutek tune; the Redsport ECU will expect sensors (turbo speed) and the 2nd water pump that the base model doesn't have...but I'd expect a tune (mostly more boost) is all you need to get there.
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I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance
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Yeah they sure are available for import now, its great news Matt, You need an import specialist insurer, nothing has really changed over the years about the mainstream insurance companies not touching them. I have my cars with Lumley (same group as NRMA etc) because they insure imports and have a good concept of "stable use" where as long as no more than 2 cars are being driven each day you can have them all on a good rate, I've also had no issues with claims through them. Note they won't insure a car if you take it to the track, even for an off track claim. Shannons are another option but I had a lot of trouble with their claims (they were happy to take the premiums, not so keen to pay out), and I'm sure there are other import specialists too
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Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Tow hooks fit neatly in the factory holders front and rear, easier than bodging something up myself. Hopefully I'll never have to test if they can hold the whole car's weight like Mark did on his 32 back in the day... -
Duncan's V37.......race car?
Duncan replied to Duncan's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
So, with the USD on the way down with Donald's pending election, I went on a bit of a buying spree at Z1, there is a fair bit of aftermarket stuff for the v37 platform and it looks reasonably well engineered and made. First, a weight adding change - new undertray for the front, but usefully it comes with a port to get at the drain plug and oil filter without having to remove the whole damn thing like the dumb factory setup. Also.... 2 reg compliant tow straps Red radiator hoses (preformed silicone) Red vacuum hoses Catch can kit (might need some massaging to fit RHD) Diff brace to add more that one mount point to the rear I'm not planning to put the silicone lines on right now, but they should help with quicker work on the car instead of just being a mass of black stuff under the bonnet -
R32 GTR Power Steering Line
Duncan replied to Dustin Frazee's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
hahah yeah I have only done it with either the engine out or the subframe on the floor. Assuming you are replacing it, just cut it near where it changes direction. If you are getting one remade from yours, draw a line across where you are going to cut it, so you end up with a marking you can line up again after when it is remade. -
R32 GTR Power Steering Line
Duncan replied to Dustin Frazee's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Got a pic of the fitting you are having trouble with? Everything unbolts so it is likely just being difficult. Plenty of penetrating oil followed by a little carefully directed heat will usually do the trick -
Good to hear from you
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Was it worth timing a visit around the event? I've been meaning to go for years
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Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at. If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
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R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project
Duncan replied to r32-25t's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I'd always suggest a tailshaft loop with a 1 piece tailshaft, just something simple from the original centre bearing mounts going underneath it