Duncan

Yep, that is exactly how I would spend your money

I assumed the original motor blew and was rebuilt, and that it was a sensible street build for someone with normal person budget

Welcome Dan As you didn't mention the stock turbo, you should probably add a high flow standard turbo to your list and remove plenum and fuel rail as they are not required for a long time.

Welcome new guy!

Yeah the difference is massive, but I'm sure it varies per base car and what you want as a driver. The Fuga (2014) and Titan (2015) also had horrible factory throttle mapping but in both cases I had done an uprev tune which fixed the response without needing a throttle controller. Whoever was in charge of Nissan e-throttle mapping in that period has a lot to answer for

That will be a very good thing if they provide decent improvements, obviously lots of OEM use in screen antennas and even the Stagea's digital TV back in the day had that sort of thing. For now my plan is to replace the existing shark fin with a through roof 4g stubby antenna, will find out if the shark fin held anything important 🤣 In the meantime, proving I have the same sickness as Mark (modifyitis) but a much less severe case, I've sourced a pedal controller for the car, it was about $250 landed with quick shipping https://roarpedal.com/products/roar-pedal-controller?variant=43907318448371 Obviously the red sport has eco, normal, sport, sport+ modes and the main difference is the throttle curve. Even so it was clearly early days of calibrating such things and even in the higher modes (which you need to set each time you start the car) it still has a dead spot off idle that really annoys me. Plus the factory sport/sport+ have the the rev hang and fake engine noises that are pretty annoying for road use (would be fine for racing) The throttle controller is a simple pass through with 2 plugs, 2 minute install then bluetooth configuration from an app. Unlike the factory stuff the setting is retained across drives. It basically has a bazillion options (2 types, 5 modes and 9 settings per mode so about 100 settings), I'm currently using p mode, sport+, level 6 which is nice and responsive but doesn't spin the wheels on dirt every time you touch the pedal. Obviously this car is getting a full tune one day which will include proper throttle mapping, but in the meantime this has transformed how the car feels driving around.....

Well, Wakefield had it's first meet on the new layout last weekend, for the Super Bikes round. On the off chance some people aren't Goulburn Post subscribers here is the local coverage Historic ASBK race thrills crowds at One Raceway _ Goulburn Post _ Goulburn, NSW.pdf Looking forward to getting back out there, Trackday Club have a day on 9 November for anyone that is looking to get out there and try it https://www.trackdayclub.com.au/event/track-day-club-is-headed-to-one-raceway/?mc_cid=0f50040237&mc_eid=629d0e2e13

https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/search-underway-for-gt-r-stolen-from-nissan-heritage-collection Perhaps it should have had slightly better security.....

Yeah it is very tight getting the lines into some cores and I'm not surprised a generic kit doesn't always fit perfectly since depending on turbo and manifold combinations. In my case I used an AN extension which I had to bolt on before installing the turbo and then changed one of the hose ends from straight to 45o to keep the line away from the compressor cover. You really should either head sleeve or replace the rubber oil return too, it won't last long with all the heat down there

Can you bypass the damper as well, it can also fail

well....I'm no turbo selection expert so I'll leave that to others, looks like you've got what you need from a supporting mods side though including the twin scroll manifold; that means you really want a twin scroll turbo to not waste the advantage, it will make the same boost/power a couple of hundred rpm sooner than a single scroll turbo

Hey Eric, it will help to put your location in your profile. 91 Octane is the lowest quality fuel available in Australia so I'm thinking maybe you mean US 91 not Australian

Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan

pfft that's not a crash

that looks identical to the WGNC34 Stagea one I was poking around the other day. Is the other end of that not the ECU plug? If so checking continuity at both ends will tell you which ECU wire it is. I can start by telling you ECU pin 31 is the top of the large pins on the right in your second pic

Bit late....but the one on my stagea has additional holes too, it is for clearance of the bolt heads which hold the radiator latch upright to the radiator support (ie, they are not to locate the panel)

Which ECU model are you using (standard?) What ECU type is is, 2 or 3 rows of pins?

no way in the world does the same strut brace fit both, they are totally different width, PCD, angle for the strut tops. also the M35 would need to be way higher to come up and over

Does the passenger vanity mirror have a light?

Mostly likely it is blowby....past the rings, through the crank, straight through the catch can and out the breather so there is no evidence it ever happened. I know the compression test was good but that is really the only way to loose oil without any (much) evidence, assuming nothing is plumbed back into the intake of course. It would be interesting to see if the cold compression test is much different as that could be when it is getting through the rings Still....just fill it up and keep going if it makes good power, a lot of higher power RBs are built with loose piston clearances and use a bit of oil as a result

Yeah the question is really too broad, it depends what you want to do with it. R and S chassis are still good for club racing, but I'm retiring my 32 GTR from rally because I just can't get hold of body parts (at any price) if a repair is needed. It is still outright competitive but not practical any more

Before worrying too much about what to do....most likely the transfer case just got hot from all the work and has been pushing fluid out the breather. Just start with a full fluid change with some nice synthetic auto trans oil (and have a good look at the oil that comes out). The xfer cases can be rebuilt if necessary, don't worry too much about swapping unless you need it back on the road the next day. BTW the gearbox and transfer case are separate (or at least, separate-able) so you you can keep your current trans and swap a new xfer case onto it if needed. I should add, you probably have access to options we don't like Q50/60/70 AWD boxes too, I bet the xfer case interchanges

Not impossible but unlikely, I changed it at the same time I changed the fan. Aftermarket of course, Nissan wanted more than a R34 Nur for a genuine one

I'm running the Gtech fan in the Stagea, it overheats just the same as it used to with a stock fan Using an n1 water pump on a road car was a bad idea but I've never got around to pulling everything apart and changing it *edit* specifically, if it is idling on a hot day, it keeps getting hotter until I chicken out and turn it off. If I keep the revs above 2000 it cools down again

It's worth looking at Neil's garage thread, he was super organised (as you'd expect). He had a simple bunnings narrow shelving rack with tubs, each tub numbered, each number had a manifest. Of course, only about half the parts had made it to that system, and he had random stuff from old projects like kawasaki triples and even a Bultaco (a wtf? I said). I really don't want to throw stuff like that because it is irreplaceable, but it's also hard to know who could use it without spending a heap of time I don't have on research. Not co-incidentally, I've recently decided to try and move on some parts too, either random non-skyline stuff like S13 axles or anything R32 that I had more than 2 spares of (yes, I have a lot of space and a lot of spares). Most of the stuff is on commercial racking which is too deep for practical use for loose spares. Where possible stuff is in plastic tubs (various sizes) to keep critters from eating them. The whole place is a disaster for the poor person who has to clean it out when I'm gone. For the R32 spares, I aim to have one ready to go spare (eg rebuilt gearbox, engine, driveshafts, hubs, control arms etc) and one ready to prep spare. Even so I've ended up with lots of 3rd or more spares and I'd rather see someone else keep their car on the road. Also I've ended up with some interior stuff like boot trims and floor mats I'll never need. So, I'm about to re-enter the painful world of online selling. I'm not on facebook (and won't be) so that is not an option, I'll start a thread on here for R32 stuff and people who need something can find it. I don't really need to throw anything for space reasons, but I somehow doubt the Greddy Rebec III will be in high demand. Oh, and I've got heaps of bench space and heaps of racking.....but still the bench is covered in half done or about to start jobs, I really need to get it better under control but time is an issue