Duncan

Any plans to seal it from the cabin? It will throw plenty of oil/grime over the years. On my auto to manual Stagea there is a custom ally sheet to cover most of the hole then the standard rubber seal is attached to that to join to the shifter

I don't think you can order the bearings individually aftermarket, to my knowledge they come in sets (noting a machine shop might be able to mix a set for you). But more importantly, while a "slapper rb30" has been a thing over the years if you want a cheap engine, it really is not the right way to go if you want a half decent result. In the end, if the engine is apart you really should do it properly with decent CR pistons, careful measuring, replace head and main bolts with studs, head service and probably cams, bigger oil pump and improved oil returns, baffles in the sump etc etc on the basis that you are probably going to want it to be a decent performance engine way day. Yes it all adds up so you need to be sure you are ready to go that way, the alternative is a disappointing result that you end up having to pull back out and do properly one day anyway

I've never used it, but yes R32/R33 GTST and R32/33/34 GTR have similar ECU pinouts so it should be possible. Their doco states a few things including AFM deleted and replaced by MAP that you need to add, no knock sensors (actually lots missing on their "street" ECU), narrow O2 replaced with their wide o2 etc Also worth noting that both Link and Haltech recommend replacing the factory intake air temp sensor with a better one as air temp is critical to accurate air calculations with a MAP. I think both r32/r33 GTST need the intake air temp sensor added. MaxxECU just say it is "optional" to have the sensor at all which I think is dangerous.

Well, if necessary you can mix and match bearing grades, that's what Nissan did from the factory (on rb26 at least) However, the overall problem is no matter what you measure it as, unless you are totally happy with the result and put it together it will be going to a machine shop who will redo all the measuring anyway. I'd suggest putting aside money for bottom end machining, and let the machinist decide the main and big end bearings. Also, you need suitable pistons for the hybrid engine and going oversize on the bore is the best way to ensure good clearances on an old or unknown engine. Head is even worse, its worth getting that done while it is apart too. Certainly stem seals and cleaning and bleeding the lifters while it is apart is a good idea with an old head too, but also checking valve seat and cam tunnels

This has to be getting frustrating.... Is it all original wiring loom? Sounds like some more money needs to be spent on a new ECU/engine/sensors loom

Reputable and Body Kits don't normally go together, the industry is full of poorly fitting "kits" Noting your profile doesn't mention where you are in the world, Impul make the best kits I can think of.

If you have an active leak it would be badly contaminated again by now....I'm pretty sure it is just residual. BTW I suggested checking under the oil cap, not radiator cap. Finally, cooling system pressure testers are cheap to buy, that will tell you with a reasonable degree of confidence if there is a leak anywhere in that system.

500hp/375kw is very achievable/ not extreme. Depending whether you want a traditional or modified look you would go larger twins (but they would be laggy) or a single/twin scroll turbo. Potentially with some extra capacity like rb30. For daily driving the considerations would be keeping the air con, using an electronic throttle for driveability and not going too hard on the shocks/springs. Around that power level the gearbox can start being a problem but that kind of depends how nice you are to it; some people kill them and have to go to something less friendly, others don't have issues.

Never really looked into them, because for me racing regs require certain nominal kg weight traditional extinguishers.

Also, it's highly unlikely to be the cause, especially if there is no milkshake under your oil cap. Goop in the cooling system is almost always rust from the block due to someone along the way not running enough coolant/rust inhibitor. If it worries you, you can try and flush everything out for a few times.

Hard plastic can be recycled, foil can't right? Can't see how this is a step foward.

1 and 2 are fine (assuming the r32 rb25 was hydraulic lifter), but #3 I doubt there is much certainty because the r32 rb25 was a very rare beast, you might just have to see what fits and post back up afterwards.

Good news, you can buy them brand new, 10 for $90K USD https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Full-Body-Part-for-AE86-Replacement_1601209302137.html?spm=a2700.details.you_may_like.2.68c330330HaZCH

The FPCM does exactly that....but I've got the walbro 525 in the stagea with standard lines and reg, no FPCM, no base fuel pressure issues. same with the race car, it has standard reg and lines with a bosch 044, no FPCM and it has no base pressure issues either

I'm impressed that they didn't stop for fuel half way, must have been nervous to go that far without filling up in a Stagea Seriously though, props to the driver, he obviously knows the place well and treated a borrowed car with respect without babying it either

Does your car have the divider between the cabin and boot, which includes hooks on the top? If so all you need it the 2 seatbacks, 2 bolts of the right length to bolt down the base (M8 from memory) and there might be 2 more bolts to hold the lower end of the seatback (I can't remember). You might also need the seatbelts and the stalks they plug in to

That is simply a very good example of the important of perspective. The c8 is no big deal if you see them all the time, just like a GTR is no big deal to us

Because you took the Commodore, not the mx5?

old school!

ha! there might be plenty of shitter navaras on marketplace, but I'm not so I live my life never even knowing about it BTW you've made a difference already, I think you've doubled SAU's post count in the last 24 hours

Don't do it....everything has an LS in North America (according to the internet at least...) Go the unique, expensive, hard way and enjoy it!

duplicate threads merged....double posting really doesn't help anyone

Second things first, the horn works be earthing the horn relay through the horn button...so basically that spring piece forms the circuit back through the wheel, boss and steering column to the chassis. It's been a long time since I looked at it but I am pretty sure that yellow wire will be straight plug in into a spade terminal on your boss kit which in turn plugs into the horn wiring loom. As for the boss kit, you might find many of them are non HICAS because many people remove or disable it. I'm not sure where you are located but if it is Australia places like Just Jap have HICAS and non-HICAS options if you want to keep it. All of the adapters are pretty much the same so brand doesn't really matter

I guess that wasn't exactly a bolt in swap Generally the best option is just not to go too low since you can get reasonable handling out of an R chassis at a little below factory height. If you want to keep going down, there are ball joint spacers for the bottom of the hub, not really much you can do at the top without going very custom (which...you already have...)

Good to see it has a front driveshaft