Duncan

Because you took the Commodore, not the mx5?

old school!

ha! there might be plenty of shitter navaras on marketplace, but I'm not so I live my life never even knowing about it BTW you've made a difference already, I think you've doubled SAU's post count in the last 24 hours

Don't do it....everything has an LS in North America (according to the internet at least...) Go the unique, expensive, hard way and enjoy it!

duplicate threads merged....double posting really doesn't help anyone

Second things first, the horn works be earthing the horn relay through the horn button...so basically that spring piece forms the circuit back through the wheel, boss and steering column to the chassis. It's been a long time since I looked at it but I am pretty sure that yellow wire will be straight plug in into a spade terminal on your boss kit which in turn plugs into the horn wiring loom. As for the boss kit, you might find many of them are non HICAS because many people remove or disable it. I'm not sure where you are located but if it is Australia places like Just Jap have HICAS and non-HICAS options if you want to keep it. All of the adapters are pretty much the same so brand doesn't really matter

I guess that wasn't exactly a bolt in swap Generally the best option is just not to go too low since you can get reasonable handling out of an R chassis at a little below factory height. If you want to keep going down, there are ball joint spacers for the bottom of the hub, not really much you can do at the top without going very custom (which...you already have...)

Good to see it has a front driveshaft

Yeah Wakie opened again last week. And to correct the record...only Nissans in this house, other than one hilux paddock basher that I'd love to replace with an equally abused navara, and the tractor

Yep, that is exactly how I would spend your money

I assumed the original motor blew and was rebuilt, and that it was a sensible street build for someone with normal person budget

Welcome Dan As you didn't mention the stock turbo, you should probably add a high flow standard turbo to your list and remove plenum and fuel rail as they are not required for a long time.

Welcome new guy!

Yeah the difference is massive, but I'm sure it varies per base car and what you want as a driver. The Fuga (2014) and Titan (2015) also had horrible factory throttle mapping but in both cases I had done an uprev tune which fixed the response without needing a throttle controller. Whoever was in charge of Nissan e-throttle mapping in that period has a lot to answer for

That will be a very good thing if they provide decent improvements, obviously lots of OEM use in screen antennas and even the Stagea's digital TV back in the day had that sort of thing. For now my plan is to replace the existing shark fin with a through roof 4g stubby antenna, will find out if the shark fin held anything important 🤣 In the meantime, proving I have the same sickness as Mark (modifyitis) but a much less severe case, I've sourced a pedal controller for the car, it was about $250 landed with quick shipping https://roarpedal.com/products/roar-pedal-controller?variant=43907318448371 Obviously the red sport has eco, normal, sport, sport+ modes and the main difference is the throttle curve. Even so it was clearly early days of calibrating such things and even in the higher modes (which you need to set each time you start the car) it still has a dead spot off idle that really annoys me. Plus the factory sport/sport+ have the the rev hang and fake engine noises that are pretty annoying for road use (would be fine for racing) The throttle controller is a simple pass through with 2 plugs, 2 minute install then bluetooth configuration from an app. Unlike the factory stuff the setting is retained across drives. It basically has a bazillion options (2 types, 5 modes and 9 settings per mode so about 100 settings), I'm currently using p mode, sport+, level 6 which is nice and responsive but doesn't spin the wheels on dirt every time you touch the pedal. Obviously this car is getting a full tune one day which will include proper throttle mapping, but in the meantime this has transformed how the car feels driving around.....

Well, Wakefield had it's first meet on the new layout last weekend, for the Super Bikes round. On the off chance some people aren't Goulburn Post subscribers here is the local coverage Historic ASBK race thrills crowds at One Raceway _ Goulburn Post _ Goulburn, NSW.pdf Looking forward to getting back out there, Trackday Club have a day on 9 November for anyone that is looking to get out there and try it https://www.trackdayclub.com.au/event/track-day-club-is-headed-to-one-raceway/?mc_cid=0f50040237&mc_eid=629d0e2e13

https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/search-underway-for-gt-r-stolen-from-nissan-heritage-collection Perhaps it should have had slightly better security.....

Yeah it is very tight getting the lines into some cores and I'm not surprised a generic kit doesn't always fit perfectly since depending on turbo and manifold combinations. In my case I used an AN extension which I had to bolt on before installing the turbo and then changed one of the hose ends from straight to 45o to keep the line away from the compressor cover. You really should either head sleeve or replace the rubber oil return too, it won't last long with all the heat down there

Can you bypass the damper as well, it can also fail

well....I'm no turbo selection expert so I'll leave that to others, looks like you've got what you need from a supporting mods side though including the twin scroll manifold; that means you really want a twin scroll turbo to not waste the advantage, it will make the same boost/power a couple of hundred rpm sooner than a single scroll turbo

Hey Eric, it will help to put your location in your profile. 91 Octane is the lowest quality fuel available in Australia so I'm thinking maybe you mean US 91 not Australian

Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan

pfft that's not a crash

that looks identical to the WGNC34 Stagea one I was poking around the other day. Is the other end of that not the ECU plug? If so checking continuity at both ends will tell you which ECU wire it is. I can start by telling you ECU pin 31 is the top of the large pins on the right in your second pic

Bit late....but the one on my stagea has additional holes too, it is for clearance of the bolt heads which hold the radiator latch upright to the radiator support (ie, they are not to locate the panel)