Duncan

Since i always have cars with flat batteries, I use one of these, expensive thou at 880rrp https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IS1500/12v-1500a-lithium-jumpstarter In my experience pretty much any of those square ones like you posted in the first fill start a skyline as long as the jump pack is properly charged, they are a simple, low compression engine. Just remember to let the fuel pump prime at ON for 3 seconds before you hit start

Will be good to see how this goes! One suggestion with the Mines ROM tune, you should get it on a dyno and check it is safe before you push the car hard.....you never know what was done in there and for what fuel....

At least 50 shades, I'd say

Congrats on buying the coolest RB....where's the pictures!!

I don't know, but I can confirm the paint code shown on your build plate is the external panels; on all R chassis the internal panels including engine bay are similar but not the same as the external paint. You will probably have to get the paint shop to just match what is there as best they can

0.5mm is a horribly low gap; I know we don't modify these cars for fuel economy but you are leaving a lot of burn efficiency behind to run a gap that small. Standard is 1.1mm

our Wombats and Kangaroos wee in that river.

gold star for GTSBoy

Good to hear from you Abo, hope France is treating you well. The problem with the big dogs is they don't live so long, and with the last few he and Mel were rescuing ex breeding dogs later in their life. I remember Monty, Roy is probably the guy you met, then Princess Kate, Greta and now Lizzie...I might have missed one in between

Oh he's gonna be pissed when he finds out that Ronald photo was posted again Kel, and thanks for filling some gaps Doof Kel just reminded me of another thing....he let us load up his car trailer with all the garage crap and was down here in the first night I stayed in the new place, with all the mice running around, blocked chimney in the kitchen fire....and instant coffee from a cut down water bottle since I forgot to pack even one mug Also....I forget his actual first race car....n12 motorkhana pulsar. It was lightened, a bit

Well, I got some sad news to share with the community yesterday, Neil de Pau passed away suddenly on Friday night, most likely from a heart attack. There was no prior signs of a problem and unfortunately his wife Mel found him when she returned home later that night. While he hasn’t been too active on here in the last few years, many of the longer term members will know Neil well, he was an admin on the forums, a founding member of the NSW club, active committee member for many years and club president in 2009. While I'm not going to do the whole story (and I don't know the first part anyway), here's a few key things I remember Back before SAU (both the forums and clubs started), Neil worked at Nissan parts in in the 90s when they were selling GTRs, which is when I think he really go into Nissans. At some stage as JDM cars started coming in, he bought a S2 R33 GTST (from John at UAS I think) and he, Mel and Monty started coming along to skyline events I'm pretty sure I first met Neil as part of Team Trackday, a group of us who use used to do 1/2 and full day Eastern Creek open days every month in pretty much standard or lightly modified skylines (this is back when 200kw was a big deal, now you need 1000 to get the likes). They were crazy fun afternoons with so many laps on the track, just wearing out tyres/brakes and not breaking things. Good times. Christian @PranK was there too, from memory he also had a white S2 GTST at the time, and he set up SAU Forums when SDU became unfriendly no non-members, and he also established SAU NSW where Neil was a founding member in 2001/2002. Its a bit of an aside, but as long as I've known Neil and Mel they've had great danes....big ones....here's Monty and Prank from way back in the day...and Prank ain't short. Neil always loved motorsport (watching, helping and later competing). I had the massive privilege of his grumpy guidance teaching me pretty much every good habit I have with racecar prep, nothing I could do could ever repay the time, sweat and blood (and probably tears too) that he put into getting and keeping my car (and Mark's too) on track. He first helped us out at the Wakefield 500 in 2003, and then in so many rallies, races, track days all around the country not to mention a bazillion days just preparing and fixing broken race cars. He bought his first race car around 2005-ish, a rotary powered Capri sports sedan, and while he did get to do some competition in it, the reality was it was a bit of a shitbox, not well built/engineered with lots of failures....and of course being a PP rotary the engine was a nightmare too. After a while he realised the Capri was never going to be the car he wanted it to be, and he moved onto a Radical clubsport. While the radical has been through plenty of specs and ups/downs too, he raced that hard from about 2008 to now in supersprints, hillclimbs, track days etc and had a total blast, winning plenty of class trophies along the way. In particular I remember that lunatic doing Oran Park in his open sports car, on slicks....in the rain at night during one of their "Do it in the Dark" meets.... he was having too much fun to notice I think. As if that wasn't keeping him busy enough, as I mentioned in 2009 he stepped up as President of SAU NSW.....and the year threw everything at him - we had a huge Show n Shine at Fairfield showground, plenty of the regular events like track days and motorkhanas, we supported the first running of Superlap at Oran Park, ran a massive 30th anniversary dinner for the R32 GTR with Jim Richards and Alan Heaphy speaking and sadly had 2 members who died in an accident at an unofficial cruise. It was a year packed with real ups and downs. Anyway, post all of that he focussed more on his own racing again and took the skyline off the road and had it caged and log booked for racing as well, leaving him with a choice of fixing the radical or the skyline in any spare minute. He ran the skyline at a bunch of events in the mid 2010s, but it did get remodelled at the national Hillclimb champs at Mt Cotton and didn't quite make it back to the track yet In 2019 (they must have know COVID was coming), Neil and Mel got the hell out of Sydney and moved to Tamworth for a better lifestyle, a good local car club, and maybe most importantly a proper flat shed with space for a hoist I'm not sure he spent much outside that shed since. Anyway, that's about all I can think to say now, except......Farewell mate, you will be missed. Anyone else please post up any memories or pics you might have.

First up, slightly loosen and then tighten the big bolt head where that pipe goes into the pump; it is much more likely (and quick/cheap) that the leak is coming from the bolt being slight loose or the copper washers needing to be re-crushed. If that doesn't improve it an you are sure it is the line, you need to undo it at both ends where there is a fitting (and there are probably a bunch of hard lines in between, and take it to the local hose shop like pirtek. They will charge you a bazillion dollars but fix it properly. Alternatively once you have it off you might be able to find a second hand hose somewhere

Best thing I can suggest (other than taking it to a mechanic), is thoroughly clean that area with degreaser and a rag, then start the car to try and identify where the leak is coming from. The AC is just an innocent bystander in this issue

I agree the car is most likely too low, outside of the heights it was designed to run at. You should see if the top of the tyre has been rubbing on the inner guard too Also, you need to check that the shocks have bump stops on them. If they are bottoming out on the shock body instead of a bump stop that will kill them pretty quick

Good to hear it was a simple fix

My 2016 Q50 does have a crossover, and it is a twin 45mm (out diameter) system, so not exactly free flowing. Just take the car to Castle Hill Exhaust (or any other decent performance exhaust shop) and get it on a hoist for them to check out, based on power targets they will make something custom for you.

Pics resized, hopefully that works better. Straightforward job today. The existing brakes were very grabby due to glazed pads and fronts 99% done (rears about 1/3 left I guess), so Racebrakes Sydney sent a care package Front 5000 series 2 piece rotors with DBA extreme pads (I'm told these are 2024's bendix ultimates) Rear 4000 series with the same pads All on, no tricks except a few of the discs were pretty rusted to the hubs (the front had threads to push the disc off but rear did not). Also, it looks like the nav side rear handbrake had been over tightened, lots of dust, worn shoe and even a groove in the old drum....presumably it will go better now Still need to replace the fluid with good stuff (motul 600) and bed them in, but I'm confident upgraded standard size will be all that it needs for now, they are pretty generous brakes from factory

Sorry, I keep giving short answers. So the starter motor main ground is because it is bolted to the engine block, which in turn has an earth strap to the body, then the battery. The starter motor positive is a big, generally unfused wire attached to the battery +. However, the starter only turns when it's solenoid gets a 12v signal from battery positive (a solenoid is just a big electrical switch). So when you shorted the main starter power to the solenoid spade terminal with a screwdriver the starter turned, as you gave the solenoid 12v. The solenoid normally gets 12v from battery + via the starter fuse then ignition switch to that spade...so it will have nothing on the wiring side of that spade terminal at most times, and you should have 12v there when the key is turned to Start per the diagram Josh posted. So, assuming you don't have 12v at that terminal when you turn the key to start you need to check there is 12v at the fuse, check the fuse is OK, check there is 12v at the start wire when you turn the key to start, and check continuity of all wiring in between those points

The spade connector that goes onto the solenoid should only have 12v when the key is at the start position. If it is directly connected to battery the starter would have tried to run as soon as you connected the battery, which would have been quite the surprise since we generally have a car in gear when we are working on it

Well, I've got no idea how ECUtek's tuning works, but I am interested in what you learn Total guess, but I'd expect anyone tuning an existing tune file it will be a remap for a stock or mildly modified car (eg new exhaust) and will be locked so you can't see or modify it yourself

I guess next step is to confirm there is not 12v on the loom side when you unplug that connector and hit start...there is likely a fuse popped somewhere

This is an R34 right? there is some sort of engine vacuum line connected to the power steering pump (no, I can't remember why that was a good idea for Nissan), it has clearly been previously broken and repaired on your car. You will have a boost leak until you fix or replace that fitting. May in the meantime take the 2 hoses off and plug them with something like an 6mm bolt (assuming they are 6mm inner diameter)

Yeah that sounds exactly like what a big air pocket does when leaving the system....radiator bleeding can be the same. I'd say you are right to go now

haha you're not going to like my old fart advice either....don't daily drive a 400kw car. It will chew fuel (e85 or 98), drive grumpy, break down, be annoying and noisy and be absolutely impossible to get parts when you have an inevitable crash (your fault or not).....just buy a $5k shitter for daily and enjoy the car on weekends flex fuel would cost about 1000 to buy and install the sensor and to do the flex fuel tune, assuming the ECU can take it. Absolutely nothing wrong with a 98 tune, it is actually e85 you have to be careful of (specifically, when you first start running it a lot of crap gets cleaned out of the old fuel system and ends up in fuel pump strainers, fuel filters and injector baskets) and also if it sits a while it attracts moisture and contaminates engine oil.

I'm sure any local govt is going to work off your rego papers weight, not a spec list