Duncan

ugh, almost a year since I posted about a car that is meant to be a daily driver.....suffice to say it still is not running OK and I'll post up once I've got it sorted. In the meantime, Eric has done a community service by showing what in inside a VQ hybrid engine....and he didn't even have to pull it apart to do so (noting, he did indeed pull apart what was left). Makes me feel much better about the state mine is in, all those oily bits are still inside mine.

yeah, I genuinely don't understand how it can use that much fuel over that distance, we do get that sort of "economy" when racing but that is literally 80%+ full throttle. lt can't just be running "rich" to get there....the engine will missfire under about 10:1 air/fuel so you would notice.

So I can't speak about this specific unit, I've never used it, but I have put a double din android head unit (ATOTO S8) in the Stagea) Firstly, this is an awesome solution to the problem where we can't get english head units any more, so I think that probably trumps everything else I'm about to say. A modern car just runs too much through the nav unit to have Japanese only in a 20k+ car. Also the physical button inclusion is important and excellent in that kit....no comment on the look/style though A couple of things to consider that I learned from my andriod install * open android head units are absolutely awesome compared to the limited options most brands offer, or compared to carplay/android auto. The ability to install any app you want is excellent, eg I use Realdash a lot in the Stagea * you almost certainly don't need more than 128GB memory. Check your phone memory usage and exclude pics/videos etc, the apps and their data use stuff all space....saved you $400. * the reverse camera quality in this kit - looks like it uses the factory cam so you'll get crappy old SD video on a big shiny screen; not sure if they have an HD reverse camera option * be sure to check the actual 4g (or 5g) bands they support. Australia is a bit strange and most generic head units don't actually support the local frequencies (also keep in mind you will have to bin the head unit when 4g shuts down because it is useless without data access) * consider the time it takes to load from start, particularly to show the reverse camera. ATOTO make a big fuss about the fact it resumes when you start the car and if you start it and hit reverse straight away the camera is always there.....if you have to wait for a 30 second boot up every time you start the car and reverse it will get old very quickly * bluetooth phone quality can be an issue. The stagea is a very noisy car but the ATOTO bluetooth was useless....I had to reinstall the separate Parrot phone bluetooth I had removed to get a chance of people hearing me and vice versa * finally, my ears can't really tell but the audio quality can be terrible in these. I had to add an amp and better speakers to the ATOTO is was quiet and tinny. Also, the install vid focussed on how quick you can do it.....you should never do an install with the car on because you are likely to be chasing blown fuses afterwards which is really frustrating...turn the car off and disconnect the battery to save yourself grief. Also keep in mind he didn't install any of the antennas or anything which will be required and are likely to need you to pull lots more of the interior apart to put them somewhere you are happy with

It is a gtst without active diff, right? I'm 99% sure the noise is a pump dying, almost certainly the fuel pump

Good luck, these guys will almost always back down if you are willing to put in the effort/persistence.....but for me that always depends whether it is worth the time and grief (which of course is what they are hoping for!)

that really is the easiest. there have been some threads on here to decode the model code if you want to check that, I just had a quick look in FAST and the decode section there does not cover all digits in r33 GTST; the digits it does cover don't include the ALSD option

Sorry to mislead you, I said 52 from memory (because this came up earlier this week). As you said, the correct wire is 53, and I've edited my post above as well

It is possible but not feasible....best to buy the car and work on it off the road until you have you full license. Removing a turbo is actually very expensive with inlet and exhaust manifold changes, new ECU etc etc

Welcome to SAU....how long until you get to see the car?

I guess there are lots of old parts that could cause that these days including the wastegates themselves. However, first question, is the car running smoothly when it only makes 7psi instead of 14, or is there some hesitation as well? A missfire as the car comes on boost is quite common and could limit the boost it makes BTW, well done finding a mostly stock GTR after all this time!

It was extremely common to cut the wire from the dash to pin 53 at the ECU to remove the speed limit, and it doesn't affect how the car runs. The R33 pin outs should be available by searching on these forums if you want to check

Assuming it is the same as R32 (and C34), the front tow hooks are under the front bumper, hanging down below the undertray.....they should be fine. The rear tow point on a 34 I'm not sure....on a 32 there are loops that come through the bumper that are too small for any decent tow hook to go through so we add a suitably sized shackle when racing

Interesting how sports always have their hands out for grants. $1M was promised to Wakie by state government (and not yet paid last I saw). Now $9.5M being given to short people who whip horses in Goulburn....I'm really not sure why my taxes should fund stables. Goulburn racecourse to benefit from $20 million NSW Government investment _ Goulburn Post _ Goulburn, NSW.pdf

The rear wheel/guard position is a whole topic on its own. Do you know what size and offset wheels you have? In general, if you lower the ride height you gain camber which tucks the top of your tyres inside the guard. Depending on tyre width (careful) guard rolling is very commonly required. It is much more common to need to add adjustable bushes to reduce, not increase, the camber once the car is lowered a little.

Well, for a drift car it looks reasonably well cared for (from this far away). Of course it would be driven hard but the parts are better quality than average and some thought went into the front bar mounting/intercooler etc You can check the actual build date using the japanese vin (hr32-xxxxxx) here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h The australian R32 GTR workshop manual has wiring at the rear which covered all R32, so grab a copy of that; recent high quality scans are here: I'm not as familiar with the rb20 wiring, but check the earth at the ignitor is well grounded, when the coil pack cover is missing that ground is often forgotten. There is also an ignition relay next to the ECCS relay near the ECU to check.

I'm not saying the audio quality is any good (it does have an amp module you can mount on the din frame which seems to improve that) but I recently put an ATOTO S8 android head unit in the stagea. The one I used was double din but as it is very shallow the amp mounts in the same space as an old school head unit as well. They have Single DIn models with adjustable floating screen that might suit, like this (note there seems to be stock issues on their single din stuff atm) : https://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/AV_Receivers/Over_7/ATOTO_S8_Gen2_8_Single_DIN_Android_Auto_Wireless_CarPlay_S8G1A84SD I liked the fact it is open andriod so I can install any apps eg Real Dash, also has HD rear camera, front driver recorded, car wifi, tpms, etc etc

Ahh good point, it's been so long since I modified the Stagea I forgot the intercooler....I ran a return flow one on mine for years up to about 280kw although these days I have a cross flow one as I also changed to a forward facing plenum (not really necessary in hindsight)

Welcome Tim, sounds like you've got some fun ahead, post up how you go and where you get stuck!

Not really....get that tune done ASAP because the stagea ECUs really don't like extra airflow, they go very rich quickly leading to horrible fuel economy instead of more zoom. For 300 I think you might need injectors but others can comment, and the AFM will max out somewhere there as well so putting in a Z32 AFM is worthwhile

Maybe, but 3rd or 4th gear does not affect the speed the dyno roller is turning, that is actual speed at the tyre

I don't really agree....the stock ignition system is fine for most use as long as the loom and coils are in good condition.....changing to different coil setups not necessary unless you are looking for big power.....and I get the impression OP has a lot of unwanted money to spend getting the car running properly

Pressure test is a good idea too, but it might still be heat related not pressure related.

OK....so to trace that, per the diagram. You said you bridged the switch at the gearbox and the lights don't turn on. Per p8 that is plug 61 with reference A31. BTW are you sure you bridged the reverse switch because the neutral switch looks very similar.... The "Main Wiring Diagram" is the conceptual one you should start with. Reverse Lights are in the middle of p6. It shows wires LR01 and LR02 go from the reverse lamps (connectors T34 and T38) to the Reverse Light Switch A-31 which you said you bridged to test. LR03 is the Positive Input to that switch, it joins to MJ01 in the loom with a lot of other Ignition 12v stuff and goes to Ignition Fuse #12 10A. Ignition Fuse #12 and other things are fed by Ignition Relay R16 (which is located in the Fuse Box at the Driver's knee marked 37 on p11). Power to the Ignition Relay comes from the 65A fuse in the boot FL14. So to play that all back....you should have 12v at one of the Reverse switch pins with the Ignition on. If you don't, check Fuse 12 (I believe it is last on the left column at driver's knee marked "Electrics"), then relay 16 (unlikely to be an issue unless other things are not working), then big Fusable link FL14. If both fuses and the relay are OK and you don't have power at the switch, you have a power supply wiring issue which might be easiest to fix just by running a new wire to the switch. If you do have 12v at one side of the switch with Ignition on, you have a wiring (or globe) issue between the switch and the tail lights, or the tail lights are not earthed properly.

I am not sure what the Japanese rule is, but in Australia the speedo is required to read 0-10% higher than actual speed, I note every nissan I've had has read at least 5% above actual. Since they dyno is reading actual speed I reckon the difference is due to tyres + factory speedo error. When you change out the ECU after you modify it, the speed cut no longer affects you. Or, go total old school and just cut wire 53 (speed input) at the ECU, the car still runs fine.

It's almost like Nissan wanted us to do it