Duncan

said every driver, ever!

fair call.....you aren't modified if you don't have 1000hp these days

And he is a dirty liar....that accord has mods now too....

Well, the key thing is still your budget (and time, but you've said you don't have much), and the fact you are happy with the existing 300kw for now. If I were you I'd buy the 5k engine, sell the head (probably for 5k these days as its a 25 NEO), swap your head onto it and send it. Then, as funds allow, collect parts to rebuild your now spare bottom end properly.

Yeah, that does suck, sorry to hear. And it is possible the seller knew there was an issue but you didn't realise too. Bottom line is, you choose what work you do to repair it based on your budget. The workshop advice is good for a "proper" fix, but you absolutely have a path where you can slap a second hand bottom end under it and go again. Depending how much work you can do yourself it is probably a 5-20k range so in the real world, what you can afford to spend on the car matters.

Have you got pics of the diffuser, that might help try and figure it out

wow....apparently that footage was 91ish....very early days for club in car camera......remember the fuss Ch7 made about RACECAM(tm) in the Gibson car at Bathurst

ahh last time I was there it was in such bad condition I would not want to ride a bicycle around it.

I'm glad I'm not the only one confused about that. But to be fair, I still call the track in Sydney Eastern Creek...

In good news for Euro car buyers, manufacturer warranty is not relevant. Under Australian Consumer Law, what you buy has to be free from major defects for a reasonable period. And if its not you get to choose between replace, refund or repair. VW were specifically done in 2018 for not complying. https://www.accc.gov.au/by-industry/cars-and-vehicles So, just say it is not reasonable to have this failure so soon, and ask for your money back, and buy a nissan. Of course, there is a possibility that they will disagree and you spend the next couple of years in court trying to prove it

Ahh I didn't realise. I'm sure they would want a PDF of the story posted to promote regional businesses Goulburn's One Raceway zooms back into operation with 'world first' _ Goulburn Post _ Goulburn, NSW.pdf

weird, I have standard r34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) on my factory auto and they fit perfect inside and out

Update in the local press https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8514285/goulburns-one-raceway-zooms-back-into-operation-with-world-first/

what width and offset are the rims, you seem to be out of space both inside and out

No pink sticker doesn't mean nothing (sorry for the triple negative). There have been many import schemes with different rules and registrations over the years. I've got 6 imports with 5 different identifying marks (or not in the case of the race/rally import and parts only bare shell) imported over about 15 years. The 15yo March only has the japanese VIN, the Stagea has a riveted silver plate and the Titan and Fuga have pink plates The authoritive information about a given import is a copy of the Import Approval from DOTARS, that can tell you exactly when and under what rules an import happened if you are concerned.

GTS4 and GTR box is the same thing, so that is not your problem. And like GTSBoy said, the diff ratios are similar (10% shorter in GTS4) and even the power and torque are in the same ballpark. I agree there is a problem with the box, not the rest of the setup, this isn't 80S commodore, it can drive up hills without changing down a gear

Not really local to you In Oz, pretty much any signage shop could do it, they have the vinyl and generally basic in house skills to design (or take a copy) of something

The block you have is fine, assuming the actual block is OK of course. It looks like RB30S is the carby Patrol version which was not very popular/not a very good match to a very heavy 4wd as an engine so presumably that is what you have; not sure how that turned up in Spain, but good find You will need to consider turbo oil feed and return points, milling a suitable flat spot and tapping a hole for a second tensioner, and check the oil pickup vs your rb26 sump. You will probably need a 2wd/4wd adapter plate to mount the sump as 2wd sump bolt holes are different (not sure if that is true for rb30 from a Patrol, but I think it is). You might want to redrill the gearbox so the lower mounting points are still available as this is for track use. The rest is all so straightforward it is like Nissan wanted us to do it

All true, I have those mods with nitto pump on the race car. But I think the key difference is use; on the street there is no condition where you are reving at 4-8,000 non stop for 20+minutes. Yes, a couple of seconds up to a speed limit (or well beyond) might start to empty the sump, but you are going to get off it and have it return to idle pretty quick. I expect nitto pumps are only a problem without those mods for track use

That is exactly what you would hope for....the oil cap will be whatever is getting past the rings which is normal

that is not normal at all. The intake air is sealed from the crankcase by the piston rings (a little should pass but not much) and valve stem seals. However, if it was heading out the exhaust (which might sound similar) that is perfectly normal on the part of the cycle when exhaust valves are open. I normally do an intake pressure test up to the last point in the intake I can cap off so I can bring it up to pressure and leave it there to check for slow leaks.

It is also possible the harmonic balancer has spun if it is a factory balancer, which means the crank timing mark can be in the wrong place

Lol I thought rag too....these things happen

Welcome Christophe, the car looks great and you can find plenty of information here about rb30 conversions including the famous PDF file with all required details

Marketing....... Some places want to talk about what it is made of, some about how they make it. #BilletTheWorld