Duncan

I'm not saying the audio quality is any good (it does have an amp module you can mount on the din frame which seems to improve that) but I recently put an ATOTO S8 android head unit in the stagea. The one I used was double din but as it is very shallow the amp mounts in the same space as an old school head unit as well. They have Single DIn models with adjustable floating screen that might suit, like this (note there seems to be stock issues on their single din stuff atm) : https://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/AV_Receivers/Over_7/ATOTO_S8_Gen2_8_Single_DIN_Android_Auto_Wireless_CarPlay_S8G1A84SD I liked the fact it is open andriod so I can install any apps eg Real Dash, also has HD rear camera, front driver recorded, car wifi, tpms, etc etc

Ahh good point, it's been so long since I modified the Stagea I forgot the intercooler....I ran a return flow one on mine for years up to about 280kw although these days I have a cross flow one as I also changed to a forward facing plenum (not really necessary in hindsight)

Welcome Tim, sounds like you've got some fun ahead, post up how you go and where you get stuck!

Not really....get that tune done ASAP because the stagea ECUs really don't like extra airflow, they go very rich quickly leading to horrible fuel economy instead of more zoom. For 300 I think you might need injectors but others can comment, and the AFM will max out somewhere there as well so putting in a Z32 AFM is worthwhile

Maybe, but 3rd or 4th gear does not affect the speed the dyno roller is turning, that is actual speed at the tyre

I don't really agree....the stock ignition system is fine for most use as long as the loom and coils are in good condition.....changing to different coil setups not necessary unless you are looking for big power.....and I get the impression OP has a lot of unwanted money to spend getting the car running properly

Pressure test is a good idea too, but it might still be heat related not pressure related.

OK....so to trace that, per the diagram. You said you bridged the switch at the gearbox and the lights don't turn on. Per p8 that is plug 61 with reference A31. BTW are you sure you bridged the reverse switch because the neutral switch looks very similar.... The "Main Wiring Diagram" is the conceptual one you should start with. Reverse Lights are in the middle of p6. It shows wires LR01 and LR02 go from the reverse lamps (connectors T34 and T38) to the Reverse Light Switch A-31 which you said you bridged to test. LR03 is the Positive Input to that switch, it joins to MJ01 in the loom with a lot of other Ignition 12v stuff and goes to Ignition Fuse #12 10A. Ignition Fuse #12 and other things are fed by Ignition Relay R16 (which is located in the Fuse Box at the Driver's knee marked 37 on p11). Power to the Ignition Relay comes from the 65A fuse in the boot FL14. So to play that all back....you should have 12v at one of the Reverse switch pins with the Ignition on. If you don't, check Fuse 12 (I believe it is last on the left column at driver's knee marked "Electrics"), then relay 16 (unlikely to be an issue unless other things are not working), then big Fusable link FL14. If both fuses and the relay are OK and you don't have power at the switch, you have a power supply wiring issue which might be easiest to fix just by running a new wire to the switch. If you do have 12v at one side of the switch with Ignition on, you have a wiring (or globe) issue between the switch and the tail lights, or the tail lights are not earthed properly.

I am not sure what the Japanese rule is, but in Australia the speedo is required to read 0-10% higher than actual speed, I note every nissan I've had has read at least 5% above actual. Since they dyno is reading actual speed I reckon the difference is due to tyres + factory speedo error. When you change out the ECU after you modify it, the speed cut no longer affects you. Or, go total old school and just cut wire 53 (speed input) at the ECU, the car still runs fine.

It's almost like Nissan wanted us to do it

Yeah there is soemthing going on the with calcs, or may be the fuel sender and/or odometer is not working properly. E85 will use a fair bit more fuel, but that is like 30% more not 200% more Off boost your car is pretty much like any standard engine (noting it probably has cams which would decrease the efficiency a litte). My 400kw stagea gets around 12l/100 on highway driving on 98; not great but not terrible

surely there is a material difference between bum and fanny.

Same basic issue with the 32 ones, happily Nissan remade a set and they are available again because for a while every 32 in the world was driving round with the louvres broken off

I guess they could be either inputs or outputs...the picture one would be a single 3.5 and the audio stereo 3.5

haha yep, don't get me wrong, I think they are a great addition considering how your car is getting around.

Yep....it is worth remembering anything except the shittest brake setups are limited by tyre grip for a single stop, not brake ability. Bigger brakes only make a difference for repeated stops as smaller brakes would get hot and fade

Do you meant the plastic cover under the radiator/engine? If so I agree it is unlikely to be the same, the front bar and chassis is different. If you mean the engine's lower timing cover, that is the same

its always the last place you think to look!

Turbo shop can rebuild it to factory for you, although you could get a better/upgraded one at the same time at the same cost. Turbo rebuild is not really DIY, you need a high speed balancer

Yeah highway makes a big difference....the titan gets 14/100 as well at that is 2.5t, 5.6l v8. But, don't tease the prisoners who have to live in "cities"

Yeah from my understanding, when they run the second direction, you have to drive in reverse for safety. Bit unfair for anyone without an EV, but hey, that's racing!

Post edited, not because it is a scam from Kenya, but because nobody should inflict a Jeep on themselves.

Good to hear. I also spoke to Tunehouse as they are the local EcuTeck master dealer, they had added a fair bit of whoosh to a few of them too, but interestingly only the high spec engine.....I've pretty much decided I'll go with the low spec engine for the much lower initial price and find out if the differences matter

Thanks for sharing the detailed write up Mick! I've moved it to the tutorials section

you'd be doing them a favour. the harder it is run in, the better for it's future life. bit risky brave of vw to give you a proper car as a loaner though, what if you start to enjoy cars without error lights?