Duncan

well, re oil pressure, you can either rely on the dash light going out, or while you are gabbing that battery grab a handheld oil pressure gauge at the same time and screw it into the oil pressure light sender port. The battery is always a killer when trying to start a car after a while....its the last thing you think to prepare but really critical.....just need to go back in time 3 days and put it on a charger If you are worried the alternator belt is too tight, back it off....the screaming when running will tell you...better than damaging the water pump or alternator bearings. Because the belt is so short you should be able to get about a half twist out of it when it is adjusted properly

/GTSBoy goes back to looking for a phone that wasn't made in china For me the issue is the variability. I'll bet there are good tyres being made in china, it's just that I don't know which ones they are through personal experience, credible review or brand recognition (in that order of importance). I enjoy being able to use a reasonable range of a car's capability when I drive it, so I want 80% quality tyres on it. That is a very expensive choice but bad tyres are very frustrating when you are trying to have fun, and can be very scary when something unexpected happens on a wet night.

well, good on him for proving its possible, but it is still not how I would do it. That vid doesn't show probably the trickiest bit with cleaning and resealing the sump (although he does state it is done and not leaking, wish I could say that for mine :rofl:) My view is still that replacing an RB oil pump is an engine out job, and you probably shouldn't do it without putting on a larger sump and doing some oil return mods. There is very little safety gained by moving to billet gears alone, and you really can't put in a higher flowing one without making other engine out changes. And of course, in a 32 you still have the short oil pump drive which is by far the biggest issue with pumps. Also, the time to do it in the car is almost certainly longer than the time to R&R the engine and doing it on a stand. Just stay off the limiter with a standard engine. Or really, any engine, these things are expensive these days

Sorry if I'm missing something...does that mean you have to cut the speaker wires to remove the door?

I've attached an english R34 manual that covers some systems but misses a lot of mechanical areas, I'm not sure why And also the japanese workshop manual for RB20/25 but not GTR Neither seems to have full wiring diagrams unfortunately r34workshopmanualeng.pdf r34workshopmanualjap.pdf

Has anyone ever seen a motorsport RB that had too little blowby I'd be more worried about not knowing it if is breathing/overflowing oil but I guess that is a problem for the car behind, Dick Dastardly style

In my experience that is a requirement decision not a forged vs non forged but rather a usage decision. You can run forgies with pretty tight clearances in light use but would still run them loose for racing. Having said that, my street stagea got big clearances and the bloody thing burns and blows by plenty as a result.

Must have been an exciting moment! I'm sure it will be repairable (and worth repairing given the likely value of a good condition R32 seat these days). Will just require some combination of banging, bending and potentially welding....so if you aren't confident a competent metal fabricator

There are 2 on car sales under $30k, $45k+ is the asking price for every other RS. I'd say they are either bargains, scams or listing errors. $50k approx gets you a 5 year newer jap import with a nav screen you can't read Base models are readily available around 30k and would be much better value as a tuning start platform.

It really sounds like a bad CAS or CAS wiring issue if messing with it had it go from not working to "sort of working"

That is just so, so true. BMW make VW look amateur and being amateur

If you remove the CAS and spin it with the ignition on, can you hear the injectors click?

That is 100% the same thing, just squished

That is the correct type on my stagea's rb25; they pull down about 50% in height as you tighten them, and the bonded metal part is the washer (ie, your pic is upside down) Per this post, those are the ones I used on mine This is how they sit, don't overtighten them

Also...5 years newer for the same price

I don't have a suggestion on the draw overall, but per the diagram 2 pins on the relay will have12v at all times. One pin will have earth when the ECU wants to turn itself on. The other pin will have 12v only when the ECU earths the third pin. So, with the car off, relay out, the holder should have 12v at 2 pins, nothing (neither earth nor 12v) at the other 2 pins. If you have earth at one of those 2 pins (and 12v at 3 of them with relay in) either the relay failed, there is a wiring problem where the signal wire is touching earth, or a problem in the ECU where it either thinks it is meant to be on or it has failed somehow

Those pics should be working now, something something SSL certificate renewal something

Thanks GTSBoy for reporting this lowlife. On investigation this is another scammer. They have sent 2 PMs to people as follows: To Marzoum - Hi Mate, a member of the forum have some BNR32 Front driver side (right) abs sensor for sale. He goes by "oktaytrz" here, you can reach him at [email protected] To cabramatta - Hi Mate, a member of the forum have some R34 GTT Manual Gearbox for sale. He goes by "oktaytrz" here, you can reach him at [email protected] Well constructed really, because oktaytrz is a long term, previously active but now inactive member, and by redirecting them to the scammer's email instead of the real members email it may well be effective phishing. Please be cautious of any PM directing you to an off forum email, of course we have no visibility of what happens outside the forums.

Yeah that can be a go, you'll just need to reassure the shop they are not on the hook for fitment issues. The turbo outlet Y pipe to intercooler should be pretty safe, you just adjust the cooler piping to match. Turbo inlets from Pods don't have to be that exact because while the pod is mounted, it doesn't have to be in an exact location. Having said that....I don't have a suggestion of a Ti fab shop so I'm not much help

I like it....pretty sure Russ went with the Aussie flag on the roof when he shipped his car to race at Tsukuba Yeah pretty sure that is the one.....hurts the eyes

"and you might possibly never see another yellow GTR in your lifetime" hahah I see one every time I look in the shed, the race car is a commodore yellow, I think it looks great in pics etc. Ian, it looks like you are going for a very serious rebuild here, great to see the attention to detail

you're a monster!

In the last couple of posts? They come up for me, not sure if anyone else has an issue? Or, is it earlier posts, we seem to have clocked up 10 pages on this ramble

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power. There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s