Duncan

That is easiest*, you do need the car up nice and high if you are doing it on stands to get the box to engine angle straight, otherwise you will have issues getting the shaft into the bush. *opinions may vary.

Some recent local press https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8355481/wakefield-park-receives-promised-funding-slice-in-state-budget/

I haven't heard anything official, but a few things - new owners are in - significant earthworks underway to add earth mounds around the track to block/reduce noise - state budget did come through with $1M handout to them - intention to submit a new DA as they reverted to the 30 year old approval But I haven't heard any reopening date or conditions. In the meantime, Pheastant's Wood is still operating, but it might be too small for supercharged boats. Good for a Yaris though, you wouldn't have to lift all lap

yeah, head jobs can be cheaper than you might expect I would suggest getting that dent sorted though as pinging tends to start at irregularities

RB30 is awesome, but it is not a quick and cheap way to get back to the track, there is a bit of stuffing around required due to block height (a little easier in 2wd, but still a pain)

Poly bushes are really the way to go, whiteline are fine for street and even race use and so are other brands eg super pro etc. Some of their bushes are available in black instead of yellow if you don't want them so obvious Noltec aren't really around any more, but they did have issues with crumbling over time, don't use them if you come across them. I haven't had a particular problem with other brands, they do degrade over time depending on use like factory ones do.

JB Weld and go again

Yeah that's not going to buff out. How is they bore where the rod failed, any grooves you can catch with a fingernail?

Yeah, I don't either. I tape a zip lock bag around it to catch any drips, you should be doing a full bleed afterwards anyway and the caliper/pistons are a bigger volume of air to bleed than the lines

I just mean, if you have modified the wiring and used the ECU ground pin to fuel pump earth, that could be a cause for burning out that circuit in the ECU. If it is wired as you said, that was not the cause.

Thanks for closing the loop...you should check that the earth is only being used to trigger the fuel pump relay in your case as if the pump is trying to pull the full earth through the ECU that would cause a problem.

Actually, good idea. To paraphrase the 200B joke, the N54 has 1 less design flaw than the N55

Replacing every bush and ball joint is the #1 best thing you can do in these cars after all this time. If your rear subframe is out, you would be mad not to replace: - Subframe bushes - Diff bushes (and change the oil while it is out) - HICAS ball joints, or even better replace with HICAS lock out - Every upper and lower control arm link (use adjustable aftermarket poly bushes at both ends of every arm) - If you have a press, it is a good time to do rear wheel bearings as well but not essential If you want it to look stock you can put factory bushes back in, but that will be x times more expensive for no improvement in ability to align it. I can't see a car with original bushes that clunks or tramlines all over the place being worth more than one that drives beautifully.

Oh that is not ideal. Perhaps ship it over to "I do cars" to tear down and make back the cost in youtube views?

To be fair, the answers aren't exactly contradictory, you can make over 300kw with a full standard intake (I do, on the race car at high boost), but it could be causing some restriction. High boost (18psi on N1 turbos, >300kw) needed a swap from factory to 550cc injectors, low boost 250kw I just got there on stock injectors 440cc In your case, I would keep the factory intake as living in the state of california is known to cause cancer and you probably don't need the attention

You can get there with the standard airbox, no problem, and injectors you need 550ish for PULP but larger is fine

You'll be fine with the standard gears at around 350kw, if you are kind to gearboxes. I've been racing on a standard box for years at around that level, including standing starts etc. I've worn a few out (synchros and bearings) but nothing broken

Sorry, if should add, 300kw is a bit of a sweet spot for these cars in terms of not having to change much. When you get to 350-600 you have to change a heap more, and when you want to go over about 600 the sky is the limit on cost. Depending on the clutch, you might need to change that to a better single plate if it can't hold the power (you will probably find out, or not, on they dyno)

So, if you have GTSS turbos and a 300kw goal, you really don't need anything except the fuel pump, injectors and tune (and depending on ECU, swapping the AFMs for Z32 or nismo ones). And 3" exhaust from the dumps back. You should check the rb26 dyno thread for GTSS results because I'm not sure, but I think they will be OK for 300kw at about 20psi, anything over that they will start to choke anyway. You are unlikely to need e85 and preparing for it requires a bit of cost (new fuel lines, e85 pump, e85 injectors), plus it is no good in irregularly driven cars because of how it pulls water into the oil.

Absolutely, turbos had a heap more lag back then, the big aftermarket twins of the 90/00s are pretty bad. Mitsu and nissan went small twins, mazda and toyota went small/large sequentials to try and improve it. You'd have to drive a factory Exa or Cordia Turbo to remember the full lag/whoosh 80s experience. I have to run factory plain bearing N1 turbos for racing and they get full (boost 12psi) around 4,500 Good to see HKS doing R&D on the twin setup and providing some explanation, not sure if aftermarket pipes will work for the purity crowd though.

Anyway, I decided to fit it anyway since the car was dead (I do have a spare factory hanger, but what is the point if the pump draw causes problems again) So to address the baffle issue, I did some test fitting in the fuel tank (yes, of course the tank was about 2/3 full of fuel, and yes if it is 2o outside a tank full of fuel is also 2o....), and worked out if I spaced out the provided baffle plate from 3mm (it is supplied as 2x1.5mm laser cut stainless, very nice) to 5mm it sat firmly in the holder. I made the new plate the whole size of the baffle, not just the mount size to help it all sit flat on the floor and reduce strain on the tank mounting. I can confirm stainless sheet is expensive, and cutting with an angle grinder does not give the same beautiful finish as frenchy's laser cutting After adding 2x 1mm extra sheets, total height of the holder was 5mm and a great fit Other than that, after properly seating the level sender, new properly sized power from the relay and earth, wiring the sender to the factory wiring and adding higher foam to the underside of the boot floor cover it was all in and good to go again. The good news is the pump that was in the tank (Aeroflow 525lph) fit straight in the holder which was nice. For reference the stagea factory sender wiring is: Pin 1 - Red wire - Fuel level to dash Pin 2 - Aqua/black - Low fuel Light Pin 3 - Black - earth for sender/light The fitting instructions say see the wiring section of the website for wiring diagram, there is no diagram for v2 hat but the v4 hat instructions https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5856/9281/files/FPG_V4_Wiring_Guide_for_R32GTR_In-Tank_Surge_Tank.pdf?v=1617411172 say: Pin 1: Red Pin 2: Black Pin 3: Grey Note those instructions don't say what each pin in the hat is for with the sender, just some colours (which don't match either 32GTR or Stagea). Their R32 wiring colours https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5856/9281/files/BNR32_Factory_fuel_hanger_wiring_identification_and_testing.pdf?v=1673844784 says: Blue/Green: Level Sender Red: Fuel Light Black: Level Sender Again, no pin numbers to cross check, first and third description are the same, and the colours don't match what is listed in the fitting instructions. Bottom line, I wired it as follows for C34 and the sender works properly (but not low level light of course): Factory Pin 1 - Red wire - Fuel level to dash - Frenchy hat pin 3 Factory Pin 2 - Aqua/black - Low fuel Light (now inop) - Frenchy hat pin 2 Factory Pin 3 - Black - earth for sender/light - Frenchy hat pin 1 So, it is all working now, but was much harder than it could have been due to design and instruction issues. The (im)perfect crime:

So, that is what happened next. I had bought their previous model (v2) hat and baffle for the race car, but did not install it when it arrived because I wasn't happy with how the baffle connected to the tank for heavy race use; I was concerned it didn't have enough support in the factory pump mount to hold such a large baffle with a half fuel tank and high Gs....so it sat on the shelf until now. One of these To get to the point, I though it was a pretty mixed product. The hat itself is excellent with quality connectors and the overall design was good, but: - it includes a level sender but deletes the low fuel light. No good for a thirsty cruisey car, no mention in their listing - the baffle mounting plate did not sit firmly in the factory tank. Kevin responded to a weekend email by 6am monday which is awesome, but only to say 'yeah nah that's how they are, try bending your car a bit' - the level sender does not sit snugly in the holder and would fall out. Instructions show a cable tie holding it on but I could not route it they way they showed, had to disassemble and drill for cable tie to hold it properly - their supplied printed instructions included (barely legible) wire colours for 32 GTR but not stagea - the hat does not fit under the factory cover (they do say it "might not" in the listing) Also note, their newer design seems to resolve some of these issues, so good on them for continuous improvement Frenchy's instructions for fitting are here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0014/5856/9281/files/Nissan_R32GT-R_Baffled_Kit_Installation.pdf?v=1617089123

See, that is awesome, good on them for doing the R&D for something R33 owners have needed for years! Yes, not cheap, but for a smart solution to a real inconvenience I think it is reasonable.

One thing to consider with that, since the early 00s I had something similar in the stagea. While it was single DIN, when the screen is open (all the time while driving), it blocked the climate controls and partly blocked the air vents (or in 33 GTR the triple gauges) anyway

Welcome to SAU, it looks pretty tidy!