Duncan

More annyingly....in mid winter the heater suddenly decided Hot was the only setting we could choose, no matter where the temperature dial on the manual AC/heater controls were set. We had always had an issue since we got the truck that we could only have full cold (heater dial left most) or full hot (any other position on the dial except full left), but suddenly there was no full cold option any more. Luckily this was mid winter...because it became another saga. When the truck was converted from left hand drive to RHD, of course all of the blower motor/heater box/AC had to be replaced with something suitable to right hand drive. I did remember the shop saying they used a D40 navara heater box which was a helpful clue, although it turns out D40 were built in Thailand or Spain with different parts and specs. Happily there was a part number label visible under the heater box in the passenger footwell which I traced back to a spanish build, single zone model https://nissan.7zap.com/en/ar/navara/d40m/24+609+705/e/270/#27210 So in the good old days, you would move a slider on the dash which would connect to a rod which would connect to another rod which would connect to another rod which would move the door inside the heater box between going through the heater code or bypassing it for cold air. Of course, in a more modern car that has to be replaced with a control unit (at the dash) and an electric actuator/motor that moves the door. Looks like that actuator had failed in this one, but at least being a local Navara part it would be easy to source, right? Wrong.

Well, the good news is that the Titan has been getting around with no particular problems since the last post, except for those fancy auto extending side steps from AMP. Basically they have 2 arms per side with stainless pins running in nylon bushes. Sure enough, after 4.9 years of dust/mud/river crossing and whatever else, those "stainless" pins started rusting and seizing up, and in one case the injection moulded gear that connects to the motor sheared off as a result. The good people at AMP support kindly pointed out information on their website (but not in the paperwork that came with the steps...) that the pivots need to be cleaned and lubed with silicone grease monthly or they won't "honor" the 5 year warranty. They were willing to sell a new set of arms for about $1000 AUD which had a 8 month lead time before they landed, which left me with either copping that or going back to no steps (not a winner for Kel) or fixed steps that are either too high to be useful or low enough to continually bang on rocks over rough ground. I copped it and will clean/lube them monthly to see how they last, and will also get a local engineering place to look at modifying the old arms to be properly maintainable.

As well as the heater hoses, unfortunately there are multiple small coolant hoses under the plenum at the rear of the engine, real pain to change engine in, if one was leaking they would drip onto starter then down into that area. Welch plugs are the series of brass or steel plates that block off holes that were needed to machine the block. Per this pic from elsewhere on the site there are 3 at the rear of the motor, in this case the one in the bell housing is missing. Also the top one is unusual because it goes to the head oil space not coolant galleries, that is where a rear drain/breather is often placed. It is much less likely to be leaking from a welch plug unless your motor has been rebuilt at some stage. Re the power steering rack, you just need to get the boots replaced before too much shit gets in there. The boots protect the inner rack end ball joint, not sure how much grease they are meant to have but it can't be nothing as they move. Genuine is better than aftermarket for boots because a lot of the aftermarket stuff uses much harder rubber that doesn't last.

Then, to do the repair the insurer needs to either replace the block or put in oversize pistons...if you want something other than the cheapest option for pistons you should expect to pay the difference

well, @D_I_F on the forums works in claims there so she may be able to advise. I would expect them to pay to repair the engine to match what is was before the accident (not upgrade of course), according to a reasonable quote from your chosen workshop (less an excess if the accident was your fault, which it might be with front end damage). AFAIK Shannons don't do repairs, although their parent company Suncorp might have options. If you don't have a shop in mind consider that there are probably at least 3 companies involved; smash repairer, mechanical workshop to do the engine and a machine shop to measure and machine the engine.

I recently bought these to replace 2 badly faded ones on the stagea's r34 wheels, they fit well and look good https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145253329657?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=3rnqFwUVSTq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

yeah that would have been nice....and much easier.... BTW I don't know what size the thread is (feel free to post it up for posterity once you work it out :)) but big dies are expensive unfortunately I think the front v rear difference is the rears have a flange and the fronts don't. No idea why or what difference it makes once there is a washer in place and the nut torqued correctly.

Couple of things The thread on the nuts is the same from both sides, so you can thread the nut on backwards to try to get started again with clean threads...obviously you can't tighten it up that way. I had a similar issue with a borrowed evo at targa years back, what we did was grind the last couple of threads off the driveshaft with an angle grinder (what we had) although a linisher would be better. Just to put a 45o approach for the nnut instead of going straight to thread. if you want to try and get a correct sized die (won't be cheap) a truck supplies shop would be the way to go

No access to that link....try uploading it instead

All good, I misunderstood, I thought the issue was the rotor was not centred in the caliper but it sounds like it is OK. Which is a good thing because it is a much easier problem to solve So for sure, I'd be looking at reducing the pad thickness. Its 1mm per side so not a lot required to get them fitting, some aftermarket pads are just that bit higher and while it isn't surprising suppliers treat R32 GTR and R33 GTST as identical for supply it looks like the combination of both being just a bit bigger has caused a problem.

In that case, you just quadrupled your car's value

The thing is, the offset is meant to be the same so when the disc is properly centred in the caliper it should be equal spacing for both inner and outer pads, so disc thickness should not make a difference (although, it might show up a difference). New pads can also show up a difference because they can be taller than factory pads too With the rotor bolted to the hub, what is the gap to the caliper on each side? I'm not sure what is happening in your case, but personally I'd be happy to put a spacer of the right width to centre the caliper on the disc if it is only out by a mm or 2 (the spacer needs to be half the difference between the 2 gaps). It is possible the 33 gtst calipers had their mounting machined before they were installed, you really couldn't tell without comparing/measuring them to another set. BTW if you go down the machining route, you also have the option of having the pads machined instead of the disc which might be a cheaper solution over time

You may well be the only person in the world still choking an R34 GTR with a standard exhaust!

FWIW, I would not bother troubleshooting that setup. Run a new wire suitable for 30a from the battery (and add a fuse close to the battery as you can) to pin 30 or 87 and 85 or 86 of a standard relay mounted near the factory one. Find which wire into the factory relay is earthed for 3-5 seconds when you turn ignition on (relay pin 1 from the diagram) and then earth is removed, and run wire that to pin 85 or 86 of the relay. Then cut the factory fuel pump wiring for pin 1 near the plug and run it to a good earth with a 30a suitable wire. Also run a wire from pin 30 or 87 of the new relay to pin 2 of the fuel pump plug. No more factory complexity, stable, full running voltage to the fuel pump at all times and ready to go for a modern fuel pump it drop in when you want to double the power.

FWIW, I believe that while we often say r33 gtst and r32 gtr (non brembo) have the same size discs, i seem to remember R33 has a 30mm disc thickness and GTR had 32mm. How thick is the disc you have? The caliper/disc offset is the same. This is on a r32 gtst, right? I would check there is no shim or washer of any sort between the hub and caliper mounts

Just Jap stock an aftermarket replacement https://justjap.com/products/mbro-japan-smoked-front-corner-indicators-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-gts-t I guess you'll need to replace both to match but they are cheaper than 1 from Nissan (if they did exist)

That's the approach I've taken over the years after plenty of bad/expensive experiences, but it is not practical for everyone for time/space/not interested to learn reasons. I still use shops for specialist stuff like gearboxes/diffs and engine machining though

Yeah that is a thing, all R chassis have frameless windows and they get sucked outwards at high speeds. Not sure if new seals are available for 33, they are for 32s (until America buys them all). Gets worse the quicker you go to. Perhaps just turn the radio up. BTW good confidence that no-one is going to pull out in front of you, looks like German drivers are more courteous (or aware) than Australian ones. Also, were you happy with how it was riding? It looked a bit crashy over the surface changes, I'd be considering new shocks.

Yeah, you need to jack up the car, remove the wheel then remove the plastic cover over the filler neck. Will be interesting to see what broke, there is a failure prone plastic nut that holds the catch in place

right, so they have a ball joint pressed into the LCA outer end, and that is where you are saying the size is wrong? 1mm over is never going to work as a press fit....something is wrong. For shits and giggles i checked an online calculator, you need about 2000 degrees to increase a 40.3mm hole to 41.3....pretty sure it will be a puddle on the floor long before then

which chassis is this?

+1 point for soviet_merlin spotting the sneaky spam (now removed) -1 point to gts_boy for going off at a bot

well, there you go!

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Personally I would not change it unless the current one was causing a problem, just money that does not need to be spent. There are also aftermarket new replacements for the factory unit which might be cheaper than an LS alternator + fitting kit. Of course, if you are actually having voltage drop issues that is a different story...upgrade away