Duncan

unless you had it for a reason, I would give the tyre goop a go.....not like you can make a wrecked tyre more wrecked.

Good on them for the response

So, it turns out, as always, preventative maintenance is bad idea! A while back I grabbed a set of new Plug and Pins for the race car fuel hat when Kudos advertised them, and a set of the Stagea while I was there. So, while everything else was in parts, I had depinned the old f**ked shells and swapped in the new ones. Perfect, nice to plug and unplug, and firmly clipped (old ones no longer clipped in, they were held by 400,000klm of grime) Anyway....turns out for some reason I ended up with a high resistance connection between the new plug and the factory fuel hat which melted the new power plug, the wiring at the pin, the outside of the fuel hat AND the inside of the fuel hat too......basically the sort of issue that could burn your very unique car to the ground. So not good....plus the car was dead again. It never ends

So, at the end of all that, I put the dash/console back together, turned the ignition on started the car. Except it didn't start. Again. And again, it sounded like a fuel problem. So after a bit of stuffing around, I confirmed no power to the fuel pump relay. Traced that back, no continuity from the source near the battery back to the relay in the boot (yes Matt!) and found to my surprise that a shop somewhere along the line had used a pair of black/red wires as the feed to get enough current carrying ability. Not exactly dodgy but a single wire of the right size would have been nice. However...it wasn't a problem, just a surprise. Checked the fuse just upstream.....and found a very melted 30A min blade fuse And holder Hmmm....that is a big fuse to be melting, clearly some real issue here somewhere. I put a new fuse holder and 20a fuse in (full size so it actually matches all the other fuses/spares in the car) and followed the wires back.

So the ATOTO head unit has been mixed, Android features are great, bluetooth handsfree total rubbish (too noisy, went back to the Parrot). I am no audiophile, but it was also clear that it just sounded worse then the old but expensive Sony head unit that had been in there for about 15 years. So, I added this little amp to the head unit, basically plug/play through supplied patch cable, optical audio link and a power run from the battery to supply enough juice. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005432564767.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.6cf2f19cKEfUXr So all up, the new head unit has been about $1300, not cheap, but I like all the 4g/wifi/hd reverse/full android apps like tomtom/racedash/TPMS etc etc. I also got the factory speakers in all 4 doors replaced, although when I pulled the door cards off to measure the available depth I found to my surprise a set of pioneer speakers had been installed back in Japan. Anyway, audio is not my thing (although speakers obviously are simple) so I got BDL in Canberra to install them, set up the amp gain and also add soundproofing to the doors. plastic removed and door thoroughly cleaned deadening installed on outer skin, and starting to seal the pods to the inner card All done, it was a very detailed and thorough job And the good news is, between the Amp, better quality speakers and the sound deadening the audio is much better, even in a very noisy car. No idea which of those made the difference or if it is a combination. One day I'll add deadening to the rest of the car, but I need a reason for the dash to be out first

Yes unfortunately I think it needs to go back. Diffs apparently need to wear in a little but they should not whine

Ahh that suck to hear, sadly these engines can be difficult for oiling, they don't call RBs Run Bearings for nothing... What oil pump are you running? I guess advice should come from your engine builder, but these days we run bigger clearances and heavier oil 20/50, the last engine in the car is the only time I've pulled it out before it broke...got 3 seasons from it

I have to say.....80s Nissan engineers were still extraordinary (and so were the accountants for letting them do it), even if one of the cutting edge techs has not stood the test of time. You just have to look at how the larger Toyota failed in the performance space (other than making a better inline 6 engine) at the same time, or Honda's NSX or Mitsu's GTO.....

I can't see how sticking stuff onto a VAG would make it look better

Not direct experience, but they are at the good end of the cheap range of suspension, would be fine for street use (assuming that is your need, you didn't mention race/rally/drag/drift etc)

@34GeeTeeTee any thoughts about single piece motorsport tailshafts

They are both in the gearbox.....box out if they need replacing

Yeah some of the aftermarket alarms installs are terrifying. My Stagea has had 2 different ones in addition to factory remote start.....on day I'll take the dash out and fix it all properly.

I can't see spigot bush on your list, it is worth always changing that when you do the clutch

Easy question, but hard to answer Generally, in road use, you would not notice the difference in the same tyre but 20% wider. In flat out use like racing, absolutely, particularly in hot weather and more than 1-2 laps.

It takes tyre height out of the measurement (as it can vary with tyre size, pressure etc)

So the potential issue with the pump is that it has 2 stages, the first is for power steer and the second for hicas. If you just block off the second stage outlet it will kill the pump. You need to either: -Open the pump and remove the rear pump vanes, then block the outlet, or -Reroute the power steering lines so the second stage feeds the PS cooler (then back to the reservoir) and the first stage just does the steering rack. -replace the factory pump with a single stage pump, keep in mind the number of ribs in the PS belt are different between R32 (4 rib) and R33 (3 rib) -loop the HCAS feed back to the HICAS return near the diff, although this keeps a lot of unnecessary weight and leak opportunities

I'm pretty sure the difference is RB20 vs RB26. R32 GTR service manual says

You'll also need to consider what resolution the head unit accepts - no matter how good the camera quality is, it still won't be good if it is SD. 720p is sometimes supported through AV inputs for some head units, but 1080p or higher will need HDMI support

Autosalon, my favourite car event. So classy.

Just checking....the car is ON (doesn't have to be started), right? The ECU is not online with only ACC

farq

One potential if the car goes into programming mode is the key is actually dead (not just battery). Might be worth looking at a local locksmith who can code something aftermarket for Nissans of the era

The more plates on the clutch, the less movement you have at the point where it is slipping/biting....it just takes some getting used to. To be fair, I am comparing it to a standard clutch while I think you might be comparing to high clamping single plate clutch. The high clamping clutches are one way to hold far more power with a single (and that is what I have to use on the race car because of regs), but the downside is their driveability is terrible pulling away from a start, they are like an on off switch and also tend to shudder. The other thing to be aware of is whether the clutch is sprung centre or not. Non-sprung centres are only suitable for race use, they exacerbate the problems at pulling smoothly from idle, and the shock when changing quickly can also break things....the unspring OS Giken triple and quads are a good example of what to stay away from for road use.

Regarding restrictors, for GTR with high flow pump the information Gary posted in the first thread is still best practice....add a 1.2 mm restrictor in the open gallery and leave the factory blocked one alone. It doesn't matter whether the rear hear port is a drain or a breather, what matters is it helps the issue of breathing in high hp RBs I use a coppermix twin in my 400kw stagea, it holds the power fine, is a worse than a single pulling away from a start (but better than any other twin/triple/quad I've tried) and is nosier than standard with foot on the clutch (but again, better than any other twin/triple/quad I've heard)