Duncan

Yeah some of the aftermarket alarms installs are terrifying. My Stagea has had 2 different ones in addition to factory remote start.....on day I'll take the dash out and fix it all properly.

I can't see spigot bush on your list, it is worth always changing that when you do the clutch

Easy question, but hard to answer Generally, in road use, you would not notice the difference in the same tyre but 20% wider. In flat out use like racing, absolutely, particularly in hot weather and more than 1-2 laps.

It takes tyre height out of the measurement (as it can vary with tyre size, pressure etc)

So the potential issue with the pump is that it has 2 stages, the first is for power steer and the second for hicas. If you just block off the second stage outlet it will kill the pump. You need to either: -Open the pump and remove the rear pump vanes, then block the outlet, or -Reroute the power steering lines so the second stage feeds the PS cooler (then back to the reservoir) and the first stage just does the steering rack. -replace the factory pump with a single stage pump, keep in mind the number of ribs in the PS belt are different between R32 (4 rib) and R33 (3 rib) -loop the HCAS feed back to the HICAS return near the diff, although this keeps a lot of unnecessary weight and leak opportunities

I'm pretty sure the difference is RB20 vs RB26. R32 GTR service manual says

You'll also need to consider what resolution the head unit accepts - no matter how good the camera quality is, it still won't be good if it is SD. 720p is sometimes supported through AV inputs for some head units, but 1080p or higher will need HDMI support

Autosalon, my favourite car event. So classy.

Just checking....the car is ON (doesn't have to be started), right? The ECU is not online with only ACC

farq

One potential if the car goes into programming mode is the key is actually dead (not just battery). Might be worth looking at a local locksmith who can code something aftermarket for Nissans of the era

The more plates on the clutch, the less movement you have at the point where it is slipping/biting....it just takes some getting used to. To be fair, I am comparing it to a standard clutch while I think you might be comparing to high clamping single plate clutch. The high clamping clutches are one way to hold far more power with a single (and that is what I have to use on the race car because of regs), but the downside is their driveability is terrible pulling away from a start, they are like an on off switch and also tend to shudder. The other thing to be aware of is whether the clutch is sprung centre or not. Non-sprung centres are only suitable for race use, they exacerbate the problems at pulling smoothly from idle, and the shock when changing quickly can also break things....the unspring OS Giken triple and quads are a good example of what to stay away from for road use.

Regarding restrictors, for GTR with high flow pump the information Gary posted in the first thread is still best practice....add a 1.2 mm restrictor in the open gallery and leave the factory blocked one alone. It doesn't matter whether the rear hear port is a drain or a breather, what matters is it helps the issue of breathing in high hp RBs I use a coppermix twin in my 400kw stagea, it holds the power fine, is a worse than a single pulling away from a start (but better than any other twin/triple/quad I've tried) and is nosier than standard with foot on the clutch (but again, better than any other twin/triple/quad I've heard)

You are right at the top of of a good single clutch clamping load at the low end of your target (340kw), planning for a twin would be a good idea

as the bishop said to the actress

as the bishop said to the actress

I only saw the results and a bit of the live stream, but you did an awesome job on a track you didn't know, well done to you and the team. For sure it would be worth heading over either earlier or a separate trip in the month before and just spending a day with the track, you would probably find time everywhere (cheapest time improvement ever!)

I think I'm catching up....you mean the face of the lift is too short to get to both lifting points on the sills?

That's what happens when you are buying in hard currency, good luck to you

It is good to stay away from solder, particularly in track use, as the vibration and heat from the soldering can break adjacent wires. You won't find any solder in a factory harness, even back to the mid 80s

So, for sumps, yes the trust and many other sumps are lower than the cross member. I changed across to a slightly larger but higher high octane sump after I knocked the drain plug out of the sump in my race car on a ripple strip. Guessing you are in the US so you exchanging a sump with an Australian shop is not simple; so keep in mind most sump extensions are cut and welded into your current sump, and that welding cast aluminium properly is a specialist job. BTW I don't agree that an extended sump is necessary for road use, I use a standard sump in my rb30 stagea. It is only a problem for track use with the combination of extended high revs and long high g corners. When people talk about changing the front diff they mean putting a quaife diff centre in. This is a helical diff that greatly reduces front wheel spin without adding much understeer under power. In my opinion, the spline drive oil pump is overkill (and harder to fit). The regular Nitto/Tomei style pump is fine (your 33 should already have the longer style oil pump drive on the crank).

When you swap the engine, you swap in the engine looms and ECU as well. Therefore the things you've listed above won't be an issue. What you do have to deal with is differences in where the engine loom plugs into the body loom near the ECU, the engine loom to the engine bay loom near the power steering reservoir and probably also the engine sub loom that goes under the plenum. Sorry, I don't have specifics of the differences, you might need to use the gtr engine loom wiring from the R32 gtr manual and a multimeter on the car to work out the differences

Yeah so you can just the bead added to them by anyone who has a bead roller, I'm sure that will sort the issue. I have a mix of wurth and tridon hose clamps on mine and run 24psi no problems.

Firstly, f**king awesome car I think what you want is some rubber lifting blocks, they would be available in different heights and often with a slit for the pinch join in the sill to sit in. Like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273745103302?hash=item3fbc7ac9c6:g:jlQAAOSwpfdcfege&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NSODXxSkSamC3EtBOgkt1g5oQrdTIqTaCp3zGuUs9p1Vel9C3ZLuVP9lnDYNLq%2Ff%2FaFi%2F78SydkuG2u2VVPjkigY06D%2B6Mqkx4l4awN5HKxyZO5nInskWrZIsiSErWxWQ6jQTx1pOidtpkcFERVm4XC9%2BP4VU0TsOTk2x26aRa7gbAdkpXTQhNJ2Y7S20FSHfebw1KZDb0lIIX%2FTg1qz0g%2FSjSkrlnLAAhuZsVR2iC%2BDH2j2QA4MEB%2FwIhg%2B1xQSq%2FYCW23uVbj9eXeJyt4dFfYPzFptaPXNykRnGY17D6f|tkp%3ABFBMhqGsocti

I can see why you have done a lot of planning if you bought the car 7 years before you were allowed to import it! So, for 330-375kw (I assume you mean at the wheels) you don't have to do a lot to a standard engine, and the stroker is definitely not required (noting, if you want it and can afford it, go for it, it's your car!) The big decision to make up front is if you are staying twin or converting to single. Single will give you a simpler setup and better performance with a modern turbo, but of course it looks very different in the engine bay. -5s will get you in that ballpark and while they are not terrible, the do have noticeable lag (check the rb26 dyno thread for examples). There are probably more modern twin options but make sure they include all inlet and outlet pipes unless you are a gun fabricator because it is very tight. Keep in mind that parts are probably 30-50% of the cost to have them in and working if you are not doing all the mechanical work yourself. I would suggest taking this on in 3 parts: 1. do a major service including the timing belt kit, water pump and change the timing belt tensioner and idler studs. Also change all the fluids, including coolant, power steering, brake and clutch. Everything is up to 30 years old after all and sounds like it has been sitting for a while. Also, replace the fuel pump with a larger drop in like walbro 525 or clone including running a new 12v wire from the battery and new fuel pump relay. And, as you noticed...check or replace every vacuum line, there are diagrams for how they should be run around here. Run it up on a dyno at high boost and a few mid range spots to make sure everything is safe. Pushing an unknown car hard before you do these is brave. 2. Engine rebuild - suggest you pull engine and rebuild it with forged pistons and rods, nitto oil pump, head and main studs, medium sized cams, proper head gasket all new bearings, rings, seals etc. Then you have a good, safe base to work from. The other alternative is you don't do this, blow it up, and have to find hard to source parts to replace your broken ones 3. Turbo setup - change across the turbos, oil/water lines, intake and exhaust to suit (full exhaust). Set boost and tune. 2 and 3 can be easier to do at the same time if budget allows, but if not fresh engine with whatever turbos and tune you have is safe.