Duncan

I'm confused by "one notch off from top dead centre". If you rotate it one notch is HICAS happy? If so, I think the issue is more likely your tie rods have been set unevenly in a previous alignment, so put the boss on straight and get the alignment checked. It won't be an issue with a nissan style boss being wrong, there are billions of cars running them with no problem

So, the diff is pretty much the same between GTS4 and GTR. The ratio difference is due to the number of teeth on the crown wheel and pinion, and they are commonly swapped between GTR and GTS4. Assuming you are just looking for a decent LSD, the other variable is the number of splines on the driveshaft that goes into the diff centre; they might be the same GTS4 vs GTR but I'm not sure. From a quick check late 32 and 33 GTR had 31 spline half shafts and they have a 6x1 bolt pattern, not sure if GTS4 is the same. If it is the same you can use any 32 GTR centre; if not you need a GTS4 specific centre, or you need to change the half shafts and drive shafts as well which might be hard to find

The part you have circled is the attessa actuator to transfer case flange. It is worth fixing the leak but that is unlikely to be your problem. pCH-90 of the r32 manual says to seal it with "recommended sealing fluid 518" which I understand is loctite 518

*edit* re-read that....shame they aren't interested in US exports Iron Chef might be better placed, they have a US subsidiary, I imported our Titan from US to Aus through them

In that case it is worth checking for private sales too, something like carsales.com.au, 1998-2002, under 100k, there are about 30 for sale atm (all very pricey but I guess that is skylines in 2024). A specialist like the ones named above could then work out shipping/import for you

Thanks all...will see how a better quality fuse goes for now an upgrade to a midi it I still have trouble....goes to show that 16a continuous is unusually high for (non factory) auto electronics, the regular off the shelf crap is not made for it.

So, having just done rear pads on the Titan, I was reminded that last year when I checked them out the sliders were seized pretty well so I went looking for a rebuild kit. One piecing one together from US and Nissan sites it came to about $300. Or, you could buy off the shelf (although ironically OOS) pre-rebuilt calipers for about $50 cheaper like this: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-performance-brake-calipers-s2948/_/R-BHKQ-S2948 So I guess this could just be a cultural difference where in the US changing calipers is the quick and cheap default way to do this. @bryan borges to do this the old fashioned way you need to identify the parts is to put your VIN in an online nissan catalogue like this: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h, then head to the front brakes illustration (should be 440) to select the parts. It looks like they do a rubber kit but the pins are separate. You can then use the part numbers to choose a supplier

Well, FWIW , it will be the same length and car end fitting as any R34 brake line. At the caliper end it will either be a banjo that seals on the caliper face with a copper washer, or a flared fitting that seals on a matching flare surface inside the caliper. If you can't tell which it is just put up a good pic and we can try and check.

Are you looking to buying something that is already in Australia, or an agent to buy from Japan for you. I've used and was very happy with both Iron Chef (for a US-Aus), Prestige Motorsport (Japan-Aus) and Just Jap (Japan-Aus). I don't know and have not come across Global Motor Traders

So given that the 30a rated holders that everyone sells (even the pricey narva stuff is 30a rated) weren't doing the job, I grabbed one of these, a Blue Sea 4 circuit standard fuse holder https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST_Blade_Compact_Fuse_Blocks_-_4_Circuits There are a bunch of fakes on ebay too at about 1/3 of the price but I went genuine as I don't need further quality issues. Bluesea rate it to 100A max with 30A max per circuit. I am running 25a for the fuel pump, 15a for the stereo amp, 10a for the LED light bar and 10a for the aux reverse lights so well within it's rated level. Some minor mods were made to remove the supplied power stud and replace it with a M6 bolt that runs through the back of the holder as the power supply from the battery is routed inside the fuse box. I then mounted it to the side of the fuse box with m4 bolts in the space between the fuse box and plenum. I took the opportunity to label those 4 power supply wires too, using motorsport spec masking tape and sharpie marker. There are still 2 other mystery wires attached to the battery +, one of which is running though some sort of circuit breaker (maybe the trailer electric brake)? Too many people have had their hands on this car over the years.... The only thing I'm not too happy about is that they use screw in terminals, I've stayed away from them in the race car, will be interesting to see how they go in a hot/bumpy environment over time. I have secured the wires to minimise the amount of movement.

So, a few posts back I mentioned the fuel pump fuse holder had melted/failed. Was driving up a hill on a hot day not far from home the other week and once again the unicorn failed to proceed. Had a good look, and the new fuse holder I had added had also melted. These 525 fuel pumps clearly are continuous, high current beasts. That is a 30a fuse (not blown) in a 30a rated fuse holder. Holder is so badly melted that it was loosing electrical connection. The areoflow web page shows the pump pulling up to 16 amps, then unhelpfully states "This fuel pump requires a minimum 35-amp relay on each pump, along with suitable gauge wire and fuse/circuit breaker". https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump "Suitable", eh? Can't say that is exactly a specification.

Sure can, just split out what you need (or don't). You might find there are some cross dependencies you need to handle like shared power or earth, but just keep what you need

Right, so this is almost certainly a switch problem, they are failure prone, you can see from the circuit diagram that each headlight takes it's own path. As GTSBoy said, the full current for each headlight goes through the switch, so either: 1. replace the switch with a brand new one (they are available from Nissan), or 2. rewire the headlights with a relay. Intercept the wire to the working LHS headlight to use as the relay trigger, run a properly fused wire from the battery to the fuse, and then run power from the relay to both lights. You need the main power feed to safely supply 20A which is pretty beefy, and then 10A to each headlight. There are dual output relays that can make wiring that a little easier like this (just don't accidentally use a switchover relay which turns of one when the other turns on

Just consider that an air leak at the booster (I've never had one, but that sure sounds like an air leak) will not affect the hydraulic system for the brakes, the booster just helps move the rod in the master cylinder. I would start by simply bleeding more fluid through first. In about 20 years' of stuffing with these cars with multiple caliper/master replacements etc I've only once had an issue with air in the ABS, generally as you bleed it the new fluid and any air moves through the open ABS channels and nothing gets trapped in the closed chambers; it is is only when the ABS is activated that the various cylinders move around so if the car has been stationary it is unlikely to be that. On the 32 there are 2 bleed nipples on the ABS that you can try. There are also a couple of more modern options for bleeding the system if you are having trouble, vacuum bleeding (which I think needs a compressor) to pull fluid out of the bleed nipple, or pressure bleeding where you seal the master under pressure and just open the bleeders to let fluid through. Maybe something is on sale if you want to try them.

Nissan did it for factory Still sounds like a lot of work to get right compared to Rob's suggestion...

BTW this is an excerpt from the wiring diagrams GTSBoy scanned that might help It shows the pin layout, and which pins should be connected in which mode of the switch.

I'm not really clear what you are describing. The indicator stalk flashes the high beams if you pull it towards you(momentary), gives low beam with lights on in neutral and high beam with lights on pushed forward (where it should stay until pulled back) What is happening in your case?

Yeah pump should not stop with a bleeder open when in bleeding mode, so something is not working OK. Is the error light flashing on the CU?

f**k, you didn't miss! sorry, I don't have any direct experience, not sure if it will leak or not

Really common issue with 1 piece aftermarket tail shafts, I'd start with getting the balancing checked by someone else

Yeah that is fine, you can change one cap at a time. If it was my engine however I would treat every bolt as suspects (why would just one break?) and replace every bolt either with new nissan parts or switch to cam studs

Yeah I run a Optima Yellow D51R in mine too, for the same reason with below zero mornings. It sits lengthways between the headlight and fusebox and uses factory terminals and cable length, although the fuse box is slight further back since I changed to front facing plenum

Any date hybrid will be available for import under the new regs (you can import any approved BEV, PHEV or HEV these days) so the lack of 2019+ would just be what importers have chosen to bring in for resale; if you used a broker to import it you can get any hybrid spec. Not on topic for this but I have the same hybrid driveline in my highway cruiser Fuga and it has plenty of go. In this case I am investigating something I'd modify which (practically) rules out the hybrid version. I looked into it but there is no easy path for more power, I've already got uprev to add hybrid ecu support for tuning but not surprisingly it made no useful difference in an NA car. I have not seen any recorded issues around porous blocks since very early models, my guess is whatever went wrong in the casting has been fixed long ago and I bet the affected cars have new motors by now. Even the turbos seemed to be an issue with the wastegate shaft/bushing wearing not a core turbo issue. It looks like the VR30DDTT is happy to make 500hp+ pretty easily (70% more than factory for base model!), the question I can't really get to the bottom of yet is how reliable are they. You always hear about the unhappy (unlucky?) people, but not all the people who just added a tune and are zooming around with no problems. And of course with the Z's arrival there will be a lot more aftermarket support and people pushing the platform.

Thanks Colin. FWIW at least one post 2019 Q50 Red Sport is available locally already: https://justjap.com/collections/collection-vehicle/products/nissan-skyline-v37-400r-vr30ddtt-low-25-xxxkm#description Please don't buy it before I get a chance to check it out

Yeah I've got FFP on my manual converted s1 and the standard throttle and TPS were OK, and 4wd is working fine with the Link with no adapter (although, the shop may have done the famous "secret squirrel tweak")