B-rice

Black 33 on parkway heading south bound. Fully stanced

Yeah shit happens, was fully insured Richard $17k. Will get a payout save a little more and get a 34GTR. But then again don't want to wait a year without a fun car so maybe an Evo8 or something that'll maintain value while saving up.

So shit news, hit a roo on Monday morning coming back from uni. Swerved and hit the inner barrier probably should have just drove into it. Now the car is written off. What a shit week!!!!

Autotech in Hume. Try ESP and Trojan, Ultimate they might do it aswell.But you need to have the license as they didn't have it. Autotech will so Nistine no worries

Yes I'm interested in this too. Or even the 5862

I've heard bad things about all these shops mentioned so just pick your poison and hope for the best.

I have a mate who works for independent I'll pm you his number or should I pm him your number.

Simon please post the 5858 would be great. I thought the 5862 would be closer to GT3076. Some god info as im about to make a purchase

It's not thread tape lol. It was to stop the wire fraying making it hard to fit. When you cut the braid with a cutting blade it always mushrooms. Will take it off but.

Hopefully I'll get that done soon enough for you. Got quoted $970 to do it. They'll probably cut corners while at it.

Im terms of perfomance managed to save up for a plazmaman plenum with 72mm throttle body. It came raw as I was going to powdercoat it anyway. Before coating it i fittted it to the car to quickly work out how I would need to locate things. After test fitting seems like the plenum will block the access to the oil filter, so an oil filter relocation kit is on the books.The pressure reg has to be relocated. I could run the plenum without removing the battery. This would mean i have to make lobster bends for it to work. Memorex tube was used to model the fitment from the plenum to the intercooler. Took it out carefully then taped it so it doesnt lose the shape. Now the task it to out out pieces similar to this then tig weld them all together. Though i could run the plenum with the battery, opted the option of relocating it to the back. Went around to ask how much this would cost and its pretty damn expensive to move the battery to the back. So Ill be invoking the consultancy of SAU to go about this the right way. Doesnt seem like a hard job but light the car on fire if not done right. Will be back with more updates.

Been a while since last update.Too busy with uni sh#t. Anyway Ive bought a few items that Im yet to install. Theyre just sitting there waiting for me. Did a couple of speed of the streets days. I can say the power level is getting tame for me. But on the other hand I needed a better brake setup and suspension tweaking. So purchased a full set of Rotors and Endless mx92 pads. While i was working on the brakes changed to braided lines and rebuild calipers. There's a possibility, the rubber was expanding when it got hot reducing the pressure going to the pistons. So bough braided lines hoping it would reduce this. Started from this To this Then this Initially the braided line kit it sent had to be linked up with my hard lines at the calipers. Wasnt for this idea so talked to Dan from Hel, he was quite happy to redesign it according to my specs. Now future R34 lines should come as a full line with a 90 bend at the caliper. I usually don't want to mess around with the brakes, particularly with the speeds I hit a the track. I had a go to the fullest extent if they didnt feel great i would take it to a shop. Sorta beneficial as im going to be a mechanical engineer in a year. Since i dont have much assistance decided i should make a one man bledder. Bought a pressure sprayer from Bunnings and taped a gauge onto it. Picked up a resevoir lid from the wreckers which turned out to be useless anyway. First attempt at bleeding the brakes didn't quite work well. Being a newbie the master cylinder had gone completely dry when i removed the calipers to rebuild them. So bled the system without bleeding the master cylinder, of-coarse this didn't work very well. So I took it out bench bled it. On my first attempt i had a problem with my pressure bleeder. It didn't seal very well at the top of the resevoir so fluid leaked and didn't pressurize the lines. Took a perspex sheet drilled through it and ran hooks that would pull the chain in effect sealing the reservoir. Worked well so bled it again. On second attempt got a perfect firm brake pressure but i didn't have the initial bite. Did some research and seems like there was air in the ABS unit. To take it out I would need the nissan-consult to cycle through the different motors. Fortunately or unfortunately for some there's a redneck way of getting of the air by locking up your brakes to activate the ABS unit. Did it three times and i had a perfect initial bite with noticable added stopping power.

yeah LFA takes it even the three musketeers of Top Gear agree. Zhonda pagani is pretty awesome aswell

Sorry don't understand that answer. Bought a Tomei Type L hopefully it's sufficient but still interested in a simpler version of you answer if possible

Old mate Terry haha!!!

is there customs in Canberra?

On another note will the standard SARD restrict me to get 400kws+ what sort of power levels are people running their SARDs at?

Any fitters and turner here with intercooler pipe benders? Need some intricate curves for new plenum

I think I'm just a bit a afraid I'll flatspot my Michelins so I'll do with another set of tyres

Its with sorrow to say that the method was short-term.Guess something else could be wrong now but I can say it's safer to stop it than before. I'll take it to Trojan tommorrow and see how it goes. Am I meant to come to a complete stop? If so might have to put shitty stockies and try again?

thanks Richard that method certainly works it's quite hard now lol. Ill do it once more thenpressure bleed it again since there should be air in the lines now from the ABS. Thanks mate

Anyone here have a consult module I can borrow need to cycle through my ABS as I have a spongy brake pedal. I've bench bled the master cylinder. Pressure bled the system with zero bubbles coming out after the fourth attempt.

Got sick of the soft pedal feel so got a bit innovative. Made a pressure bleeder. Initially it was a fitting to a spare lid.The seal wasn't right enough so fluid spilt out. So ended up making a chain pressed perspex with rubber to seal. This worked a treat managed to pump the system to 13 psi and cracked all this zero bubble came out. Before this I took out the two lines that go to the ABS unit and got an assistant to depress the pedal to squirt fluid then stuck my fingers to block the holes then got the assistant to release. This was done about four times. My pedal was still soft.Then my old man told me to find a secluded area where I could lock up the brakes once or twice.This worked a treat as there was air in the ABS unit. Proper way to do it is to use the consult. But Nissan will charge me $300+ for that.

I'll take pictures tonight of my ABS couldn't see any unless if I'm getting retarded. I'll post so anyone having the same problem can reference.

MObile fabrications in Quenbeyan and Shiv for the calipers. Just some warning powder coat is a thicker layer, some areas with fine tolerances will have to be covered up or your wheels will not fit on the hub