B-rice

I live in Canberra and interested in some parts. Provided if you allow me to remove myself

I'm interested to what he is replacing this with.

Thanks Phil. As far as wiring goes I'm not a sparky. So it would be something I'd give to an auto electrician unless if reckon it's that simple. The biggest question is, do you think a that effort was worth it? I can handle most mechanical challenges. But when it comes to electrical work I tend to avoid it.

Update on this, I fixed most of the leaks on the car. It turned out to be a leaking cam seal. Initially, I was panicking as I thought it was coming from the head gasket. Now I need to crack onto the steering rack leak then the car will be leak free. While looking for something completely unrelated, I ran into a rather clean looking R34GT4. It seems like it has most of the exterior mods taken care of and the usual bolt ons. So was thinking maybe I should swap and get an AWD Neo. The plan would be to pull out the NA engine and get a temporary RB25 Turbo for the mean time while building a RB30. Then the final goal would be to drop the RB30 and use adapter plates and drop it into the AWD chassis. It the best thing I could do, can't really afford a GTR as a uni student. So keen to hear what inputs people have. I feel like I may be losing out on this swap just to get the AWD. The questions in my mind before I pull this off are -Are parts easy to get for the R34GT4? -Available ECU options, I'm guessing I won't be able to use a GTT plug-in ECU -Potential Issues with dropping an RB30 into the AWD chassis (I haven't found much info on this) -Most likely will need to be engineered unless if I transfer the NA engine number onto the RB30 block, they will never be able to tell. Need some help thinking this through!

I pulled everything apart and put it all back in. It started fine. Checked the timing with a timing light and it was all sweet. Thanks for your help fellaz

The front timing cover is on. I pulled it off to check timing. And also tried starting with the cover off. It didn't work. Barred the engine countless times to check the markings and all three points line up.

I was fixing leaky cam seals. So before removing the timing belt I made sure the engine was in TDC. Did this by removing the plug on cylinder #1. Put a screw driver in and barred it to TDC. I'm not sure if that messed it up in any way or form. I'll disconnect my battery disconnect and reconnect everything even though I've only touched the CAS plug. I have a feeling it's something silly

Bumping an old thread I've just been fixing something which required the removal of the timing belt. Bought a new belt and lined up all three marks. Did cycles of barring to check and make sure they all lined up. I marked the CAS before removing it. Recently painted it anyway so its quite obvious where it was mounted on the slots. My issue now is that the car is cranking over but will not start. I've spinned the CAS while the ignition was on. I can hear the injectors ticking over and the fuel pump priming. To add to the issue the car is tuned. So if I was to set the timing again to a base timing. Would I lose the tune? Any pointers would be helpful. Ive done a timing belt change before. Not sure what's happened this time around.

This item is broken too^^^

Thanks heaps fellas just on time to get the job done.

So I took off everything to get to the cam seals and this is what I found. Seems to be oil leaking from both seal. The backing made this more evident as you can see from the picture. Now following the advice posted here. The front cam cap should have a bit of sealant on it. There isn't any on this head. So I'm just going to use Ultra Black RTV on the mating surfaces. I couldn't find any 3-Bond orange.

Just to update this thread. When I did it last time. I didn't mark the CAS and the engine was not in TDC. Could I get some advice on this. Seems like I got away with it last time. Not sure if I will again. There are marks on the balancer. Which one should I be using and what do I line it up with. In terms of marking the CAS before removing, am I just marking an outline of the case relative to the timing belt cover?

Can someone tell me the right 3-Bond to use. I'm going to be attempting this tomorrow. Would rather not undo the cams. I know it's dangerous and could snap the cams. But has anyone taken off the front cam caps to ad sealant without snapping the cams?

Very accurate. I'm buying the kit off a mate.It took him more than a month to get his stuff.So I'll just buy it off him. Have you guys checked to verify that VCT is engaging?

Interested to know from anyone who has used the TLG VCT kit posted here. It seems like it would work but I’m very sceptical. Maybe someone could explain how they think this would address the oil problem. It has an alloy block that removes the VCT solenoid from the head and relocates it to the right hand side of the engine, right under the oil pressure sender unit. So the oil supply to the alloy block is Tee'd from the oil pressure sender. Then it goes from the alloy block to the original location for the VCT solenoid. My question is how does this trigger the normal operation of the VCT gear. What stops the oil flowing back into the engine block if there is too much resistance on the supply side. It seems like the external oil feed has been used quite a bit but from the search I’ve done. I cannot see how the VCT is activated using this method. Also noticed that the VCT solenoid had a second o ring the bore on the TLG doesn't seem to be using this.

Good stuff, I had 500kw as a target but I'm not fixated on it. It looks quite responsive too. Was that turbo maxed out?

There are a number of ways to do it pretty much shit I learnt at uni. But anyone is very much capable of working it out. When I get home tonight I'll post here how it's done. It's pretty much similar to sizing a pump. The matchbot link is here. I do realise this isn't a Borg Warner thread. http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/78GY1U

I was referring to the Borg Warner Airwecks S300 series or the new s320.They cheaper than the EFR series but there is a huge turbine to comp selection. Using the matchbot see below. From the matchbot I should have above 17psi of boost by 3000rpm and full 26psi by 4500rpm.

RB25/30 Neo. E85 or Pump.

I'm torn between HTA3582 BorgWarner 8374 and PT6262. 25/30 built looking for 450-500kws. Has anyone got a compressor map for the HTA3582?

I was worried the harmonics won't be similar for the 34gtt won't match the RB30. I guess the question I should ask is what are the engine harmonics for an RB30. Could those settings be transferred to a 34 balancer that has provisions for the pulleys I need?

I had the images saved on my PC will PM you when I get them

I've hunting for one of these for a while. Might even try sourcing one from Japan

WTB:Low mount HKS Manifold for RB25. Or GTRS manifold. Pm me for price.

Would be nice to find a balancer where I can keep everything.