hardsteppa

All items located in Cairns 4870, and are plus postage - express, registered, standard, whatever you want, to anywhere needed. First up - brand new adjustable cam gear to suit RB engines. Steel outer ring for durability, aluminium inner. Came as a set of 2, I only used one on exhaust side. Has hi tensile bolts and washers already fitted, so good to go. Have used mine for about 5 months now and works a treat, set to the recommended 2 deg retard and good gain everywhere, quicker spool. $45 for this. Next, brand new genuine SFS silicone top radiator hose. This was an extra they had put in by mistake when I bought my set, which is why there's no bottom hose as well. After $25 for it. 70mm ID SFS silicon joiner, 70mm aluminium joiner, 76mm aluminium joiner, 2 1/2>3 inch reducer (or increaser, whichever way u look at it). All brand new, although the reducer has been stored in the garage for quite a while through a few moves so is slightly scuffed. $5 each or $15 the lot. as-new Turbosmart Kompact BOV, bolt on for Skylines. Used for less than a week (thought my stock one was leaking but turns out they're designed to lol). Prefer to keep a stock looking engine bay so have put old one back on. Paid $190 for it, with receipt available for warranty, original box and Turbosmart sticker . After $140. stock series 2 R33 coilpacks. 107,000k's on them, all working fine at time of removal, no misfires or issues. Changed for splitfires when I did recent major service. $40 the lot. Check profile page for feedback from previous buyers, I value my reputation as a seller - feel free to PM me with any questions or offers on items listed

translation is (refer to my numbers on safc2 sheet) 1) It's something about additional rate to the normal air/fuel ratio upon use of Power intake. 2) The example of setting when in use of Normal air cleaner 3) The example of setting when in use Power intake 4) Additional rate to the normal air/fuel ratio upon use of Apex Power intake. When use "Apex Power intake," the shape of "air cleaner" changes, so there will be a gap of air/fuel ratio from the pure condition (?) This setting rate is for giving correction to pure air/fuel ratio in order to make best of the performance of the Apex Power intake. 5) The example of setting when in use of Normal cleaner. This is the example of the controlled rate, the case of being more powerful than when pure condition by using Normal air cleaner. 6) The example of setting when in use Apex Power intake. This is the example of the controlled rate, the case of being more powerful than when pure condition by using Apex Power intake. 7) Graphs of air/fuel ratio in each conditions of settings. safc2 graph marked.pdf

do you have the page from the safc2 manual showing the suggested settings? It has a suggested tune on it too but I wouldn't advise using it. I think there is still a copy or link to it that I posted in the "japan" section here while I was trying to get it translated ( i now have it translated lol, from a japanese girl at work)

damn straight. My safc2 cost me $200. I get sick of reading "safc is crap, throw it away". Of course they will not work anywhere near as well as a full tuneable ecu but not everyone needs or wants that. They are a signal bender as ppl keep saying and if all you want to do is bend the signal a little to optimize bolt-ons or stock tune then that is what they are made for. And as for the OP saying he wants to get a wideband and have a go at the tuning himself, I think that is a great idea - safc2 is a simple unit so would be a great base to try tuning, as long as keeping in mind the whole change of ign timing thing. I'd be very interested to hear how you go with it mate, keen to try it myself, just trying to justify wideband/datalogger cost.

damn u got better eyesight than me homie, couldn't imagine being able to see tiny air bubbles coming out from that far away

yeah but you would still need to be at the caliper watching it, not in the car pushing pedal. Might just wait and get a helper

I just fitted BR series to an R33gtst last week, went for the 8/6 spring rate on the advice of Justjap (was going to go 6/4). Roads are pretty bumpy up here and 8/6 is fine, not radically different to stock. 6/4 would have been too soft IMO. Have dampers set 10 clicks from soft, so 1/3 of full firmness. Also have whiteline swaybars front and rear, might just be me but I still find it has a bit of body roll - eg my ST185 GT4 has similar setup, Tein superstreets and whiteline swaybars, and that has wayyy less body roll, very flat thru corners, so was a little disappointed with the R33 in that regard. But for $1300 delivered the bc's seem great value, ride is probably perfect for street, as in firm but not too harsh. Would need firmer for track, I would imagine..

oh and installing new nismo braided lines so there will be ALOT of air to get rid of lol.

thanks for that. My main concern was how would you know when all air is out if you can't see it? Would prefer the 2 person method so I can see what's coming out but my better half is away at moment.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Bleeding-Tool-1-man-bleeder-EBC-Ferodo-Brembo-/160560674522?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25622976da anyone tried this? I think it's the same thing as speed-bleeders, which I've heard work well. Make it alot easier to do for not much money if they do work...

just got a set of the BR's for my r33gtst. Quality/finish of them looks good. I was EXTREMELY sceptical of the 8/6 spring rate, as the tein superstreets in my ST185 Celica were rated much softer (can't remember exact rates, they are on tein site somewhere) and are stiff as hell, but I dunno, maybe BC use a different way of measuring their 8/6 rate lol, cause they definitely aren't harsh. I would put the feel of them about 20% stiffer than the stock suspension I had, with the damper adjustment 7 clicks from full softness on the BC's. So I've found them definitely streetable. Was going to get 6/4 spring rate but was cautioned against it by salesperson, and glad I didn't, would have been too soft.

ok - not that I should have to explain myself, but, I do alot of very short trips for work, driving around 45 secs here, 60 secs there, which is hard on the battery to get charged properly....and running things that draw extra current like elect boost controller and safc drain the battery even more. So would like to be able to turn them off for daily driving where I don't need more power, and just run them for when I am going for a "real" drive. That clear it up for everybody?? As said in the original post, I'm just after help and opinions on how to wire a divert for the afm signal, as the on/off part is easy enough to sort

well no, it's, I want to be able to run it when I choose. I think an safc2 suits my modest tuning goals quite well.

fitted an safc2 recently and had some trouble with it, would like to wire in a switch so it can be turned off and return to the afm wiring going straight to ecu, without having to pull apart kick panel and wiring every time. Was thinking of an on-off-on toggle switch to divert the afm signal, have it run either straight to ecu or via the safc2 at the flick of a switch. Just wanted to know which would be the best way to do it for the safc side. Would I divert the signal before it goes to safc and have the return constantly spliced, or divert the return and have the ingoing signal constantly spliced? I'm thinking divert the return signal, so the signal altered by the safc doesn't actually do anything. But not that up with wiring so open to opinions and suggestions on the best way to do it?

excellent to hear R31Nismoid, so the cheaper slotted would be just as good you reckon? the others are more but look alot hotter lol have done the fluid change, and running TRW pads at moment which seem ok? no brake shudder but definitely bumpy/minor grooving on disc surface. Not wanting to spend any money on the current discs though, would prefer to put it towards newies. Thanks for the tip, up in Cairns though, unless they do shipping...?

Hey skyliners Noob question but how do you know when discs are worn out? If you don't have anything to measure thickness that is. Mine have a bit of lip on the edge of the disc....car has done 110,000k's, I've had it for the last 9,000 of them, not sure if they've ever been replaced? Does braking performance start to go downhill, or what, when discs have reached min thickness? I was looking at these for replacement, seem to be a good price from what I have seen. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-GTS-t-R33-R34-Front-RDA-Disc-Rotors-/110724245641?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2446644268996712129 anyone have any opinions on them, or know anywhere that does a better price? car is 100% street too btw, no track use

lol, gold

also any chance of some pics of the actual ones you're selling?

give you $800 for the coilovers and a winning smile......I'm negotiable on the smile lol.

nicely . What are the rates?

rb20 actuator is good, but not the same as a boost controller...being a spring diaphragm, boost comes on too gradually...for me anyway, no boost "hit". If you really want to hide it, how about a dummy setup. leave stock boost solenoid in place, block inside the line with a vut bolt/plug, and tee lines off underneath that run to your boost controller. If someone really wants to find it they wil, but that would be a way to look stock

I think you could be onto something there. Definitely no ecu error codes when checking via consult connector.

ok - have found the car alarm might have something to do with it. When it has immobilised after 40 secs it was doing the tripping thing; when disarmed the safc comes on normally. So got it started and running. *But* found the check engine light coming on randomly once I started driving - stays on, then starts flashing, then quick flashes, long flashes, all over the place - doesn't seem to be in any order or code. So, bridged the consult plug to check for error codes, and nothing, just the 55 all clear flash. Car seems to drive alright but the fact the engine light keeps coming on and flashing can't be good.....plus a strong smell of melting plastic a few times too.

I have triple checked all connections, all were soldered securely. Checked I had tapped into the right pins, and all ok. This is seriously annoying. I'm not running anything else off the ecu - could the load of the safc be too much, causing it to keep tripping off?

just fitted an safc2 to my s2 r33, and no go. Trialled it when i had just wired in the power and earth and it fired up fine...did the rest of the wiring and the ecu just kept clicking and safc kept restarting......caused by the squarish solenoid in behind the ecu, you can feel it clicking. Disconnected the afm wire and joined them back to bypass the safc, it fired up fine. Set all the settings in the safc, turned it off, went upstairs for a bit.......came back down and now it won't fire up at all, just keeps clicking/restarting??? cut all wires bar the ground and power, and still clicking. At a loss, cause I soldered all the joins, no way they have come loose?? anyone have any suggestions?