hardsteppa

thanks for replies. Not that keen on doing any upgrade work to the box, or removing it from the car...would be happy to replace some bushes if worthwhile but otherwise it will go into "too hard" basket...for a daily driver I will just put up with it!

so winding up on the suspension work now, and thinking about the slush/lag of the stock auto box on the r33 gtst...would I be wasting my time fitting stiffer engine and transmission mounts and poly diff bushings in an effort to improve the throttle response of the auto box? Or is it just, it's an old auto, it's not going to be very responsive ever...Not looking to do a manual conversion but if anyone's fitted stiffer bushes/mountings and found it was worthwhile, would be interested to hear... thanks

what about this badbwoy right here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NASHIN-345mm-FRONT-BRAKE-ROTOR-DISC-UPGRADE-KIT-SKYLINE-/130919209312?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7b649960

i was under the impression they made a few different types, with an option for the r33 gtstst>gtr as per OP...although the design didn't look as good.

I've gone with Roadsafe rod ends from Bursons. Have their tie-rod ends on the car, seem fine to me. No listing for R33 gtst, only R34, but specs seemed to be the same...fingers crossed. Also went with Hardrace control arm bushes, about $45 cheaper than SuperPro. Think I might be out of luck with the pressing them out/in though, might be time to buy one of the $199 Supercheap Auto 6-ton presses....will probably end up doing the rear bushes anyway, so might come in handy.

No disrespect to the OP "coming from the man himself Jeremy Clarkson" Clarkson is far from the man....rather, an egotistical twat. Used to find him entertaining, now more, annnoying as f*ck. Can't see myself ever being able to afford one, but price bracket vs what you get? R35 = amazing. Not to mention the priceless street cred than Porche' etc will never buy IMO.

Thanks very much for the tips. Re rod ends, pairs on ebay for the $65 mark, any thoughts on these for fitment and quality?

hey all, just got the verdict today, couple of things needed on the front end. Car is r33 gtst. Have searched but not found info, only references to it. To replace the rack end (inner tie rod) as I understand it you need to remove outer tie rod end and rack boot, then rack end should just be able to be unscrewed from the rack with 2 spanners? is that right, or more to it? Also the lower control arm bushes; they need to be chiselled (like my abs) or flame-grilled out, or drilled? and then new bushes pressed in? I used a vice to press in new bushes when I did the upper control arm camber bushes, so hopefully this would do for lower, or will it need an actual press to do it? Part number i was looking at is superpro spf1483K thanks for any relevant inputs's

fpr and gauge pod sold...

looks like fpr sold, rest still avail...

Bought this adjustable fuel pressure regulator while doing trying to track down an issue on my car. Turns out the regulator wasn't the problem, so have put the old one back on since i don't need adjustable...or a new one. It has done exactly 7k's (just enough time to install along with fuel pressure gauge, go for a drive trying a lower and then higher fuel pressure), so effectively brand new, as you can see in the pics. Is a bolt-on type for the rb25, not the universal type, fits a few Nissan engines as a quick google search will tell. Will post anywhere in Oz for $130 Also have an Autometer 2inch gauge pod that's been in my shed for about 11 years, but still in as-new condition. Made from black powder-coated steel. $15 posted anywhere also still have a set of 6 stock rb25 purple/grey injectors in the shed, $50 the set.

on R33 the tray has cutouts for engine oil, radiator drain, imagine R34 would be same? So no need to be removing it for every little thing.

i see it begins again...

Yes.

yeah just a one-way valve going into crankcase somewhere, don't know where it is on gtr's sorry. Should hold boost one way, and not the other. Mine rattled when take off and shaken, and wouldn't seal against pressure properly.

do gtr's have pcv's? on gtst's the pcv should stop the crankcase getting pressurised by boost when doing this test. Pressurising crankcase will cause dipstick to pop out. First time i was doing this test, was getting leaking from loose/faulty pcv, no further leaking from there after i replaced with new one. this is with sort that i used http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-UNIVERSAL-TURBO-BOOST-LEAK-TESTER-Tests-any-turbo-with-a-2-comp-inlet-/140922559674?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20cfa39cba goes over front of compressor house. not that expensive, gauge makes it easy to see if leaking from somewhere, just plug in a compressor to the nipple and fire her up.

yeah my level of mods is incredibly pissweak but not going to dick around with 2nd hand 15 y.o regulators, would rather buy new.

i would have thought block off one turbo and pressurize via the other one, but never done twin turbos before, only single..

ok well if anyone else is ever wanting to know, apparently they are the same, just branded differently.

still waiting for fuel pressure gauge to arrive but crimped the fuel return hose last night to increase pressure, and idle picked up back to normal sort of level...so would say fuel regulator not holding pressure properly, anything else this could be?

Hey to follow on from my other topic about possible stuffed fuel pressure regulator, just researching but couldn't find too much info - is there much or any difference between the Nismo and Apexi adjustable fuel pressure regs for the rb25? They look to be the same to me, direct fit and same specs. Not that I need an adjustable reg, but the new price is not much, cheaper than a stock one from Ni$$an.....

BOV is plumbed back into intake, not atmo. Stock ecu but usual, fmic, exhaust, cam gear, custom metal pipe/pod intake. Have pressure tested in the past and no leaking under boost. Thinking more about regulator may be stuffed, as Tomei fuel pump which used to make a higher pitched sound when priming sounds a little lower (working against less pressure?) Have ordered a fuel pressure gauge so will fit that and see what is. New fuel filter didn't make any difference.

so, progress of sorts I guess...turns out I have been chasing a ghost with this throttle on/off switch. After playing round with it more last night, set the throttle to 0.48v when closed, still wasn't reading as "closed" though. Unplugged tps, revved, plugged back in, and now showed as throttle closed, and reading 0.48v still. Sweet. Still have an idle issue though, runs ok then slowly idles lower/shitter 'till sputtering away at 550rpm. AAC, afm readings were all in spec as per nissan workshop manual; did notice though that the 02 voltage goes down to 0.2v and sits there very evenly when it did this though, which I believe shows it running lean? Plugs are all very evenly colored so don't think it's any one injector playing up, and they were all reco'd less than 3000k's ago. So thinking it is either blocked fuel filter causing flow to drop at idle, or faulty fuel reg....Any thoughts?

thank you for your suggestions, I do appreciate it. All of the above have previously been done apart from using a multimeter to set the tps, I did that via consult. As mentioned in the original post I can see on EcuTalk (consult) gauges that the open/closed throttle switch is not reading right, and showing as open, even though the throttle is closed, whenever I try to set the TPS to 0.45 volts. This to me would seem to be the issue, the ecu sees that the throttle is open and so would not be controlling idle like it would do with a closed throttle. That's what I'm trying to figure out, why it's doing that. Will clean the throttle body again on the weekend, throttle plate might be sticking open slightly? although doubtful, it seemed pretty securely closed when checked it previously

i haven't no, because I believe the issue is caused by something not switching right (as in, something that relies on the open/closed throttle switch that doesn't seem to be operating correctly). When my car wasn't having this issue it was idling perfectly so don't want to go adjusting the idle to compensate for an error, if that makes sense...