hardsteppa

"You'll end up paying more in time, materials and labour to get custom adapters made, and you might still have difficulty with the fit. UAS are $350, GKTech can't be that far away, chances are getting your own made up will take a couple of weeks anyway." fair call indeed, have enough projects to keep me going for a while yet, and looking forward to the GKtech adapters having bought a few of their other products, so thinking I might just hold off for a while anyway. however...?? ahh man I expected more from you GTSboy, like some input of real-world experiences or in-depth knowledge, not just "it's just not kosher" and "it's poor form"....you've let me down!! What about " the increased leverage from the larger diameter disc will exert far great force on the mounting bolts and using spacers instead of a solid fixing point will have more flex which could break mounting bolts or throw caliper out of alignment".....or, "the hub and disc spin at high speeds, if the calipers are not aligned correctly on the adapter this may lead to uneven wear and warpage" I've had a 10mm plate steel bracket/aluminium spacer brake kit on my Celica for over 10 years with out any issues, it's been checked over by a top race workshop in Melb and ok'ed and then checked by an engineer and mod-plate cert'ed in Brissy, so I know this style is fine, although a CNC machined piece is preferable, same as a high quality billet caliper is preferable over 2 pieces bolted together (as in, like the stock R33 caliper).

fitted today. Great kit for $299, no fitment issues. Some pics for those considering comparison to stock clean the hub ready for new disc check hub runout - all good fit caliper adapters fit disc, check runout - all good put caliper back on, nice fit, all done (don't forget to put your wheel back on)

On mine i had to wire and fit an air temp sensor, was for a different car though. Used the Delco sensor, can email u the values to calibrate if u end up using it.

pm'ed

Nah son, theyre like several hundreds of dollars's. Rather put in a bit of time and effort and make my own, for that kind of money

I know right/ trying to figure out if it just sounds like a shit idea, or actually is. If they're good enough to use as shims though( and they are, I've had a top-notch company in melb do this when fitting big-brake kit to my other car) then is it an issue to use them en-masse. My concern with using trying to machine something to fit, is getting it exactly even, which will require the work of a company with specialist equipment, whereas the washers will be an even surface. Will probably use another piece of the 10mm plate and then shim with washers as needed, but once again, fire away with feedback or suggestions.

got to say, I look forward to your posts GTSBoy, you're certainly a learned fellow. Just posted something in the braking section I'd like your thoughts and input on, if you care to do so. Re above "But if you watched a boost gauge connected to the inlet tract (rather than the plenum) during such an event and you will see the pressure fall a long way below the boost pressure it was running at. That only occurs because the air goes out through the hole." agreed, this being the point of a BOV to release pressure. "The air has to come from everywhere and will flow from the furthest points towards the hole." if you looked at a smoke test though, wouldn't you see it start to flow through from the area immediately located from the source of the escape route (BOV)? So if you put it as close to the compressor as possible (with the BOV intended to prevent reversion and damage to the compressor) it would reduce pressure in this area first thus preventing reversion and damage to turbo. I don't claim to have done the research and testing to make this theory foolproof by any means; as we all know from doing basic modifications from day one of owning a turbo car, OEM specs can be improved upon and you got to wonder how much convenience and budgets play a part in R&D and the mass-marketed final product.

so while I love the look of the GKTech adaptors, there's me not exactly being known for my patience, so have decided to make my own adapters to run the 324mm GTR discs. What could possibly go wrong, I know..... anyway, have sourced some 10mm plate steel, got carbide burrs, grinders, tap/die sets etc and a plan in mind. Be curious to hear from anyone else that's made their own or been involved with it, and any suggestions inputs etc. I think the hardest part is going to be getting the spacers right and making sure they're the right height and machined dead-flat. Thinking of using washers stacked to the right height, once they're under tension between caliper and bracket there shouldn't be any flex, but open to feedback and ideas......?

"air that was previously flowing towards the TB does in fact have to turn around and flow the other way in order to decrease the pressure in the tract." I put it forward, there's no need for the air to reverse and flow the other way. Consider this - throttle shuts, airflow into engine stops as throttle plate has now blocked path. Compressor still spinning and pumping air into piping which is now not flowing. BOV located straight after compressor on intercooler piping lets this air out rather than pressure building and pushing against compressor. So the airflow would be effectively stopped, pressure remains the same, and any incoming air would continue to flow the same way, just be diverted straight out the BOV rather than continuing through towards the engine. Get back on throttle and more boost pressure is already there as it hadn't been depressurised in front of throttle plate. To be honest i think the difference between putting it just before throttle, or just after compressor, would be sweet F.A, in most cases, but it makes sense to me to put it in front of compressor. For another reason, when no longer being driven by the turbine (under closed throttle) the compressor will slow down alot more trying to drive air through the intercooler rather than allowing it to vent out straight away before passing through the I/C. Obviously this is based on zero hours of research and development by me and I'm sure auto manufacturers might have given it at least a few hours testing.....

r34 smic and tyres sold, other items still available.

r34 smic sold.

hard to believe I know, but these are still available. Special today only, buy any item and go into the draw to win a free hat. Buy any 2 items and I'll rig the draw so you win the hat...

sold.

mods pls delete *this* thread, pics in other one...thanks

mods pls delete one thread thanks

Garage clearout today and found a few things not needed. Check seller feedback, and feel free to pm the dudes that bought my stuff, no dodgy deals here. first up, Aeroflow liquid filled efi fuel pressure gauge. Bought this when I briefly tried the nismo FPR (now sold and another happy customer on here) so it's not had much use (less than 1 month on car) and in VGC. Comes ready to go with brass fittings as pictured, all you got to do is cut and clamp your fuel supply hose onto the barb fittings as pictured. $50 posted anywhere in Oz next, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate for stock R33/r34 turbo as found here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Adjustable-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-R33-/281163573117? This was only on car for about 2 weeks and vgc, some minor markings on actuator shaft from grabbing it with pliers to hook it on/off flapper and end of shaft was cut by about 5mm as was too long to fit over flapper arm properly. Now - they say 11.8psi wastegate, I found it *did* start to move at around 12psi when testing with air compressor, but realistically with hiflow turbo was holding boost more around 14-15 psi and I kept hitting fuel cut, so went back to r32 10psi actuator. Other than that fitment and quality of product is fine, pretty solid actually. After $60 posted anywhere in Oz Trust/greddy panel filter for stock R33 (plus R34 and others) airbox. VGC, and due to fibre construction is cleanable with vacuum and compressed air. Still with box as pictured. $40 posted anywhere in Oz Apexi avcr boost controller. Now- screen doesn't work, flickers occasionally and flashes on startup. Guy who repairs vacuum flourescent displays like old-skool checkout registers etc told me easy enough to repair but I never got around to it, feel free to make your own enquiry though. Unit itself still works fine, just can't see display at moment. Comes with all cables, map sensor, boost valve as pictured (greddy boost valve in photo, apexi one still on car, will swap over for sale). $120 posted anywhere in Oz. all items located in Brisbane but can deliver locally or post anywhere. Also still have the R34 sidemount intercooler, R33 engine mounts, Toyo proxes tyres for sale as per other posts, at very reasonable prices.

Garage clearout today and found a few things not needed. Check seller feedback, and feel free to pm the dudes that bought my stuff, no dodgy deals here. first up, Aeroflow liquid filled efi fuel pressure gauge. Bought this when I briefly tried the nismo FPR (now sold and another happy customer on here) so it's not had much use (less than 1 month on car) and in VGC. Comes ready to go with brass fittings as pictured, all you got to do is cut and clamp your fuel supply hose onto the barb fittings as pictured. $50 posted anywhere in Oz next, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate for stock R33/r34 turbo as found here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Adjustable-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-R33-/281163573117? This was only on car for about 2 weeks and vgc, some minor markings on actuator shaft from grabbing it with pliers to hook it on/off flapper and end of shaft was cut by about 5mm as was too long to fit over flapper arm properly. Now - they say 11.8psi wastegate, I found it *did* start to move at around 12psi when testing with air compressor, but realistically with hiflow turbo was holding boost more around 14-15 psi and I kept hitting fuel cut, so went back to r32 10psi actuator. Other than that fitment and quality of product is fine, pretty solid actually. After $60 posted anywhere in Oz Trust/greddy panel filter for stock R33 (plus R34 and others) airbox. VGC, and due to fibre construction is cleanable with vacuum and compressed air. Still with box as pictured. $40 posted anywhere in Oz Apexi avcr boost controller. Now- screen doesn't work, flickers occasionally and flashes on startup. Guy who repairs vacuum flourescent displays like old-skool checkout registers etc told me easy enough to repair but I never got around to it, feel free to make your own enquiry though. Unit itself still works fine, just can't see display at moment. Comes with all cables, map sensor, boost valve as pictured (greddy boost valve in photo, apexi one still on car, will swap over for sale). $120 posted anywhere in Oz. all items located in Brisbane but can deliver locally or post anywhere. Also still have the R34 sidemount intercooler, R33 engine mounts, Toyo proxes tyres for sale as per other posts, at very reasonable prices.

tha's cool, thanks. I know about safc lowering afm signal, guess i was thinking along lines of, could still be in r&r part of map but lean out a little, but will leave it to the tuner lol.

i do the same test from time to time, and haven't had that noise....just sounds like a leak to me. What's the pressure gauge doing, going down? After I replaced the leaking PCV valve mine holds pressure pretty well, no rapid drop or sound of leak like that. Other option would be to try getting can of party smoke and filling air compressor with it, then pressurising and seeing if any colored smoke coming out anywhere..?

have bought an safc neo after some discussion with a tuner in the area.The Neo has a fairly extensive control for Honda's VTEC and since as I understand it VCT triggers at a set rpm via activation of a solenoid, could the VTEC control be used for VCT instead? Reading the manual it sounds like it could but anyone else tried it or know much about the finer points of VTEC and VCT workings to shed any info on this? Also, everyone's always throwing it about that safc's are rubbish because of the ignition timing advancing when leaning out the afr, but...with the stock ecu going into rich and retard at higher boost levels, wouldn't this be a good thing (to a point)? As in, otherwise sure you would be tuning to a better afr but the timing would still be retarded....But with it working as it does, you would be tuning the afr's and also bringing the ign timing back up (because it had been retarded under R &R)

Sure do, stock suspension with struts less than 3 months old. Whereaboutx are u? Bris here

It improves the handling, therefore an upgrade. I found the difference in vibration noticeable but stiff sh&t, most performance upgrades come at a price and its certainly liveable. Agreed , well worth it for the low co$t.

price is fine, I just want the damn things made if it takes a group buy to do that i"m in

$60 to the lucky drifter....$15 a tyre, its a deal its a steal....

alright fine, your offer of $60.00 is accepted....Wait that's like $14.99 a tyre...goddamn that's cheap...