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hardsteppa

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Everything posted by hardsteppa

  1. mine does the same thing, quite loud, with no difference in how much the fan slips on the clutch. From reading threads about this on other forums, my understanding is the design of the nissan fan incorporates trying to minimize noise as well as move air volume, whereas the gktech fan is designed for moving maximum air and reducing drag, and not much concern given to the noise factor. Something about the tapering out to a thinner point at the tip of the fan, greatly reducing drag at higher rpm. Ass-dyno tells me it 'feels' better at higher rpm, but yeah quite roar-y driving around in traffic esp when cold.
  2. i don't know that's possible; my experience is they either fit without mods and the pad doesn't fit perfectly on the disc, or you need to do some modding to fit.
  3. i consider the loud exhaust a road-safety measure, kind of like an early warning system. Car coming, get the hell out the way. Being in a car when I can't even hear if it's idling/on makes me physically nauseous.
  4. still available, and i'm strapped for ca$h...don't be shy with the interest now..
  5. still available, and i'm strapped for ca$h...don't be shy with the interest now..
  6. arrived today, very quick postage. Looks good, seems fairly good construction/materials, not throwaway plastic junk. Will give it a crack on weekend.
  7. that's funny, i usually have the police telling me to put my clothes back on wonder what happens with the forms received though, so one person fills out a form saying you're hooning, and then what, you're charged? or flagged on the system, etc? I don't "hoon" but do drive a car with a louder than stock exhaust and nice rims, the way some people look at the car even just driving along normally it's like i've got my foot to the floor producing 40 metres of smoke. Driving at 10k ph through a wide open carpark and some guy goes 'slow down dickhead' wtf, I don' think it will go any slower without being parked mate. And that's my concern with this, that some people's ill-informed perceptions will result in people being penalised or at very least have un-needed trouble created for them.
  8. I do not approve.... you could have alot of fun filling out the forms though...
  9. Was in same boat, using motul 10w40 and couldn't find it anymore. Switched to penrite 10w40 which is everywhere and about $10 cheaper. Much happier with it and wouldn't swap back.
  10. instructions/tutorials on their site go into a bit of detail about this, making sure you start with steering wheel centred and both tierod ends having the same amount of thread showing, then making even adjustments to both sides, to get it as even as possible and not favoring one side.
  11. looks like a nice piece of kit. More on the pricey side...trackace one has fricken' laser beams though
  12. cool, thanks for the suggestion on the caster gtsboy, I was wondering about the effect of binding/tension on the rest of the components for this. I was thinking about using a plumb-bob down the centre of the wheel to measure before and after change (maybe even using a degree wheel on the string vs wheel centreline afterwards) to get an idea of the amount of degree change?
  13. haha you don't mess about do you straight into the purchase! Yeah but fair enough, for that price big deal hey, I will do the same next payday I think.
  14. true it's fairly basic, doing only toe, but then priced accordingly too. I have a magnetic spirit level with a 360 deg adjustable dial gauge that I was planning on using for adjusting camber, and dial indicator/bumpsteer gauge for the traction rod adjustment. Really hadn't come up with any ideas for the caster measuring as yet though, apart from pushing it as far as I can until there's no further clearance lol. None of it really needs to be *that* accurate, it's more just to give me a feel for changing what each aspect of alignment does and to get a better understanding of it overall, so that when I do take it in for the alignment I've got a better idea of what settings will suit my driving, but not putting up with shocking toe alignment in the interim. Although reading sydneykid's old posts, the bumpsteer/rear traction arm adjustment can be very time consuming so would like to get that as accurate as possible. The rear bumpsteer is also the biggest problem i can feel with the car at the moment, and the reason for me embarking on the whole adjustable arm/learning about alignment caper. Question on the rear camber though, from searching here it seems like skylines don't like alot of negative camber on the rear, is this more a straight line traction thing, or leads to less traction when corning too?
  15. anyone had any experience with these http://www.trackace.co.uk/ laser-pointer home wheel alignment tool? Have alot of good reviews online and fairly cheap at $140aud. Not intending to be in place of a full 4-wheel alignment by a professional shop, but I have just bought Hardrace castor/camber/traction arms and I'd like to learn more about the change that each arm makes, and difference in feel it gives....don't want to go to a shop to get a wheel alignment constantly during my learning process though, so was looking at using one of these instead. Anyone with experience or thoughts on these? thanks
  16. can you stop talking about stuff you don't have first-hand experience with please? I'm always open to people's ideas and opinions but your self-righteousness really gets old. FFS, the caliper fitted onto the disc, your post above has nothing to do with what I asked the guy above with his brake pad fitment. When I overlaid the 324mm disc with the 296mm disc, the change in profile pretty much perfectly matched the area that needed to be taken out of the caliper....all part of checking for myself what needed to be done and if it was a good idea to go ahead with or not.
  17. Ok...before I did it, I was of the same opinion, no way in hell am I grinding my calipers. Automatic reaction that I think everyone has when they hear those words. While it is a pita to do it, having done it now I would find it extremely unlikely nissan designed the caliper to such fine tolerances that the minute amount that comes off is enough to make or break them. I could be wrong, sure, but it does seem unlikely. that's interesting, could you confirm how the pad sits on the disc, as in, any overhang? Whilst exchanging emails with gktech their position was cos of the diameter change from 296>324 disc, it wouldn't fit into the caliper and still have the pad fit completely on the disc, it would have overhang in the middle of the outer edge, hence the need to remove a little at the ends of the caliper and allow the pad to sit on the edge of the disc rather than hanging over it.
  18. it is a small amount of material being removed in a non load bearing section; what is your reasoning for that?
  19. hey Dan, you're right, it is a fair bit of stuffing around grinding/test fitting, grinding more, took me a few hours to get done too. When I had taken out a fair bit and it looked like fitting, i spraypainted over the grinded area and then ran it again, so could see where the disc was actually still rubbing, as otherwise it's very hard to see on what spot it's still hitting and otherwise will just end up grinding away at sections that don't need it. Even after fitting, under heavy braking the slight amount of flex would see the caliper push onto the disc again and give a grinding sound, so another slight trim was needed but no trouble since then. Sucks about hitting the bolt tube but shouldn't really matter from a function point of view i would think? I didn't hit mine but looking at the photo, would say it would only be hair-thickness of metal left before breaking through.
  20. haha. I had a few emails back and forth with them about this.... To grind mine, i took the calipers off, did the main part pushing them up against a bench grinder to take out the bulk of it, then used a carbide burr to get the harder to reach bits, then a metal file to smooth it out. Not sure about dremel grinding wheels but one of these works a treat http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chieftain-Carbide-Burr-Double-Cut-SL-2-/151175368194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2332c10e02 these rip the shit out of anything, don't need much pressure on the aluminum caliper, just skim across the surface to get nice n even. Why keep the dust shields btw? they just get in the way and trap heat IMO, but up to you of course..
  21. Yeah thats not right mate, will email u some details tomorrow
  22. Ok cool, in brisbane here. Justjap sell the hardrace stuff.
  23. Whereabouts are you mate? U will need a press to get them out/in (i have one). Have to say if i was doing it again - and i am- i would - and will - buy the hardrace rubberbush adjustable ones (leaving me with a set of stock rods with superpro bushes fitted, for sale...just sayin' )
  24. 25% off anything and everything, this weekend. That's *this* weekend. Buy now, be happy
  25. Superb saturday savings, 25% off everything this weekend
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