hardsteppa

So i've had this a few times now, most recently the last couple of days. S2 R33 rb25det automatique', mostly stock- fmic, exhaust, 3deg retard on cam gear, iridium plugs in whatever stock range is, 6 or something,& tomei fuel pump. Not really been driving the car at all except to and from work in peak hour for the last week, alot of idling time and light throttle. Car started running and idling like ass, coughing/spluttering like it had lung-aids or something. Boost gauge drops from idling around -81 to -65 whenever this happens. I'm madly checking for vac leaks, misfiring coils, faulty cas, afm, oxy etc, can't find anything. So I take it out and cain the crap out of it tonight with a few full throttle runs and basically giving it a bit on an extended drive, and what do you know, back to pulling -81 at idle and running much better.I'm putting it down to fouled plugs or maybe injectors overdue for a clean....So this is what the rb25's love, a good bit of throttle, none of this touchy feely treat me gently shite?

still available. Can also include a dvd copy of "full metal jacket" if "Bloodhands" isn't your cup o tea

Forget a spare steering wheel, I just make sure I remove the engine every time I park the car. But seriously, hope it gets sorted out for the OP.

awesome looking kit mate, best of luck with the sale. If I wasn't jobless and broke and didn't own an auto and it didn't have a big-ass dent in the side I would definitely go for this. Just out of curiousity what's that 4-way joiner in the bottom middle of the pic for, the one that's sitting on the pack of hose clamps?

Brissy northside FTW lol. Since my brush with a pole, I envy those with such clean cars....

pm'ed.

ok $200 and I'll throw in a free dvd, the epic 80's kickboxing flick "Bloodhands", starring some guy you've never heard of...

Have an apexi SAFC 2 for sale, it's the black screen/white lettering version. Bought it off a forum member here a while back and wired it in but never got around to getting it tuned. Unit is in good order and comes with the wiring harness but no stand, pretty sure I've got the user manual and wiring diagram around still somewhere or they can be downloaded from apexi site easy enough. Unit in good working order as shown in pic (scuse the mobile phone crappiness quality) - it does have a velcro patch on the back of the unit, and a 5mm scuff line across the left hand side of the screen, and some very small scuffs on the right hand side, but does not affect the visibility of the screen, cosmetic only. $220, plus $10 express post anywhere in Aus, or pickup from Brisbane.

jst found another thread which has a couple of suggestions but stil keen to hear of any recommendations.

Hey all Can anyone recommend somewhere on northside Brisbane to get guard rolling done? Had asked a couple of local panel shops but they said not something they did....

sold..

and by $150, I mean I am desperate to sell and will take any offers. ****some offers may be refused.

did I say $175?? cause I meant $150.

Turbo on my R33 blew a while back, not sure what is wrong but appears to be blown/damaged bearings. Did not make any smoke, just alot of noise (sounded like a circular saw under the bonnet), and both compressor and turbine wheels still intact as per photos, minimal shaft play in any direction, not contacting housing at all on either end. Shaft still turns by hand but has a flat spot and will not spin freely....so not sure what it is but is undamaged otherwise, would suit rebuild. After $175 plus postage cost for it, or pickup available in Brisbane.

Set of front and rear brake lines to suit R33 GTST and R34 GTT for sale. Bought them ages back but never got around to installing, and having a clearout so out they go. Genuine Nismo item, and total quality finish to them, end fittings are same as stock items so a perfect fit. Paid $250 for them from this place http://www.ebay.com....=item2eacddd603 after $220 plus $10 express posted to anywhere in Aus. Located in Brisbane for pickup if wanted. BRAND NEW NEVER INSTALLED still in box with warranty card etc.

and the inside of my car smells like shit after I took a dump on the passenger seat.

thanks for the offer Kudos, I have ordered from you before and your service and prices is top-rated and quite precise, I would not feel bad being taken by you in the shower if we were in prison together. Just that I am now unemployed and trying to do this shizz as cheap as possible as I have no work, although I was thinking of advertising as a transporter if anyone wants any cargo moved...no questions asked or answered. and to the other dude, I know i should be able to get that from a bolt shop right? and it was doing my head in, everyone saying nahh mate, don't have any....I'm like why you holding out with the copper, just give it up dude, bring it in with my sizes n shit. Seriously wouldn't mechanics n that being needing copper washers on a daily basis, and in more than just 6 prepacked imperial sizes, come on get with the metric system. So would like to know where the copper washer warehouse is that I am completely unaware of. But I have taken certain liberties with a quiet friday night and the paper gasket I cut out, and pulled out the high temp copper gasket goo and smeared a thin coat of it over the paper gasket I carefully constructed and have it hanging up to dry. Booyah in the morning I have a heat proofed gasket ready to go.

Yo. in the process of changing turbos (stock), need a couple of pointers pls. The turbo drain gasket, would it be ok to cut another out of ACL oil joiner gasket paper, or does it need to be some special gasket material to handle the high temps I'm guessing it will cop due to being on the turbo? as in, paper is probably going to overheat and catch alight and burn my car to the ground which is not what i'm after. Also where the hell do u buy copper washers from? Went to a few auto and bolt stores, and could only find those crappy prepacked ones that were all wrong sizes. Nissan wanted 36 bucks for SIX copper washers (get the farrrrk out)...

pm'ed u.

mine is series 2 and had an anti-roll bar fitted as standard. First I've heard of them as Not being standard.

Hey dudes recently started working on my ST185 again after it sitting in garage for 18 months. All good now but the avcr screen is blank, just buttons are lit. Have heard this is either earthing (checked connections, ok) or dead screen. It was flickering when first turned on but now just blank each time. Would like to try plug it it to someone's harness if anyone else is using one? I'm in Northgate here. thanks

lol gold...the chicks dig it rough

. It won't, I believe this part is under mild pressure at idle. Pull a vac line off after the throttle plate and see if the idle changes. u sure it's not just the boost controller solenoid clicking away, they can be pretty loud.

need a new ignition coil for my ST185, was looking at these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAD-Quality-Ignition-coil-Toyota-Celica-GT4-MR2-3SGTE-Soarer-V8-Supra-JZA80-/110767423404?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ca40bfac brand is CAD, anyone ever heard of them, know much about quality of them? Couldn't find too much info on the googelator about them

so, is anyone that's posted actually an engine rebuilder or qualified mechanic? Reason being, it was actually a mechanic from a well known and respected tuning workshop that recommended this as a way of removing carbon deposits from an engine we were having trouble with (and no, he did not have a spare engine there he was trying to sell). It is putting water through an engine so I'm not surprised about some of the comments lol, but I have seen it work firsthand and done it several times in different engines, and never had any engine trouble afterwards, no water in oil, nothing. Small amounts being the key, not a gardenhose or firehose, although I admire the enthusiasm there