hardsteppa

all right, fine... $50 for injectors....sheesh

cam gear sold.

dump pipe sold.

ummmm....you've still got to find the car first..... so how do you override it? as it's not something that's wired in that you can bypass, it *is* the ecu. It stops the car from running, nothing to do with changing settings.

in my other car, I have a wolf 3d v4 ecu...you can set a 4 digit pin via the hand controller that shuts off the injectors and ignition in the ecu. And since the car no longer runs at all on a stock ecu, the only way you could steal it would be to tow it. Don't understand why this isn't a more common feature on aftermarket ecu's?

that does look really cool, and having just had the laptop out using ECUtalk, it got me thinking, if all you want to do is use it to run an OBD interface - you can get basic netbooks for like $99 on ebay brand new, just run one of those in the car using the obd-usb cable....would also be able to have datascan, calumsult, conzult, repair manual etc right there on the netbook as well....much cheaper and neater than buying 14 different gauges.

yeah its on 9psi at moment, might bump it up a little more

oh ok, but a good pad overall you reckon for the price, or not really?

Intima SR's?

rather than start a new topic.....will do a stone-age bump. Having a small issue with mine, which is keeping the boost at 12psi in the mid-range revs. Seems to be that if I increase either set or gain, it will cause boost to go well over 12psi once you hit the higher revs, but boost is only 10-11 psi in the 3500-5000rpm range. This is for a hiflow stock turbo on r32 actuator.

went nuts with the 1.5 metres of earth lead that I bought. No power increase and didn't help my idle, but feels smoother in general driving. $14 and 1/2 hour spent, whatever....

lol i just noticed if u misspell CONSULT as CONS.L.U.T it comes up as conbroad minded person

checked with timing light with TPS disconnected, and confirmed as 15deg on CONSULT/ECUtalk

i should also point out, timing is erratic only with TPS connected. When unplugged it idles at a steady 15deg, but jumps around once plugged in, TPS voltage readings are fine though and steady, not jumping about. Have tried another CAS and same result.

well, maybe....only $$$ paid closes the deal for me. Had someone else ask about that too, should be no more than $30 boxed and posted but will find out exat costs on Mon if y'all want to pm me your postcodes so I can get some prices n whatnot.

hmmm....others will prob say otherwise....but on my car...with a hiflow turbo, stock ecu, fmic, exhaust cam retarded, full 3in exhaust, no boost controller just r32 10psi actuator, it would make pretty much.....10psi...... however, boost does come on much better with an electronic boost controller.

yep, standard ecu. It's been reset many times since this first started happening, hasn't helped. Pulled cas off this morning, felt ok, maybe slight roughness of bearing but not much. Can hear a bit of rumbling sound from that area while the car is idling though. LOl i know 0-10 is not right that's why I mentioned it. Timing is set to 15deg though, and showed as this when first started yesterday, sits on that when the car is running right too...it's just the issue is getting more and more frequent. Also noted when out driving yesterday, when coming down in revs back to idle, it occasionally locks on a steady 20deg which makes it idle at around 1200rpm. A blip on the throttle brings this back down to a more normal idle, although with erratic 0-10deg timing.

I have alot of faith in Australia Post my friend . Let's make this deal happen.

...definitely suits this, as that's what my car is too, and I put mine on exhaust cam.

Clearout time again. All items in Brisbane, can post, pickup, or maybe deliver if you're not too far. Stainless split dump pipe and mild steel 3in front pipe with o2 sensor bung. Good cond, all welds intact. Good n cheap at $60 6x stock r33 gtst 370cc injectors. Bought them off a member here a while back with the intention of getting them cleaned so I could just do a swap with mine one weekend, but ended up having the car off the road for a while and got mine done so never used these. $60 the lot Brand new adjustable cam gear. Got a set of 2 off ebay but only used 1. This is the good kind with the outer steel gear not aluminium. proven (on both of my cars) to give noticeably quicker spool and no loss of power or driveability. $45 - never used. R34 series 3 Garrett metal not nylon compressor wheel, ceramic rear, OP6 turbine housing turbo. $300 R33 series 2 stock turbo, no shaft play, comp and turbine intact, but bearing blown or flatspotted, shaft still spins but clicks, needs rebuild. Good to send in as exchange so you can still drive around in meantime. $60 for you my friend. R34 side mount intercooler, good as the day it came out of the factory but with the normal scrapes etc of being on a car since it did come out of the factory. In other words, still in good nic with no real damage. $70. No pics as it's in my other garage but can send a pic if needed. R33 side mount intercooler, vgc. $20. Same deal, in other garage at moment but can get pics if needed.

Been chasing an intermittent idle issue now for a while, and just got an ECUtalk lead and software for the laptop... Set it up in the car, found ignition timing was showing a solid 15deg at startup, but after about a minute or so running, timing started jumping around constantly between 0-10 deg on idle. Everything else was reading pretty steady apart from O2 voltage which i think is supposed to jump around between 0-1v and it was, so normal? Ignition timing held pretty steady when high in the revs apart from the occasional blip of a couple of degrees either way, but back to jumping all over the place between 0-10 as soon as the throttle is let off and back to idle. So is this pretty conclusive then, that the CAS is rooted? Or could it be just indicating something else to be checked, before I go spend a fair chunk of cash on a new CAS?

So in trying to track down my intermittent idle issue on my R33 gtst, I noticed that the exhaust manifold ground lead looks pretty old and frayed. I know 2 things about wiring, one that a good ground is important and the other is I know pretty much nothing else about wiring...so was going to run some ground leads from the block to chassis...could someone point me in the right direction of the best sort of wire to use, and best points to do it from? Like I said don't know alot about it, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

mine too from what i recall, although something about 7 psi under some conditions. When I did the grounding mod, didn't do sh*t for me, still ran the same. Autometer are not a rubbish brand.If it's sitting dead on 0 when car is off, it's prob calibrated correctly.

hey GTSBoy, your postage was highly detailed and it sounds like you know your shizzle on where the dumpipizzle is concerned. What are your thoughts on this slice of exhaust action? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOG-NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB20-RB25-R32-R33-R34-EXHAUST-TURBO-DUMP-FRONT-PIPE-/130709924344?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6eeb29f8 It would appear to match your specific criteria mentioned - spilt pipes, seperator, merged much later in the pipe, at a smooth flowing angle, and flaring out in a cone-type shape as much as possible in the space available. Good price too. Granted I am sure it would be made of incredibly low grade s/steel, but from a design point of view?

hey I'm just in the process of making my own metal intake - what's the reason for not just using mandrel bends? is there any, or you just loooove welding lol?