jazza08

Cam gears are sold Anyone for top suspension at a cheap price??

E-Boost 2 is the best boost controller ive ever seen

I remember i had oil in the boost controller lines once and it was soooo laggy, cleaned them out and it came on full boost around 1000rpm quicker!

No worries Lyell, just msg me when you want to buy and ill let you know if i still have them. Looks like a mate wants to take the lot of suspension as he noticed the price quickly lol Price's aren't negotiable peeps, items are brand new remember. Castor kit comes with 2 rods and 2 bushes, any questions you can ask SK as its from his group buy, ive just taken abit off the price as i dont need them! Pm sent in regards to the catch can.

I left you a PM Patrik. Nobody wants some cheap brand new suspension bits?? They came from Sydney Kid's group buy but i have never fitted them! Save yourself some money

40rwkw = 53rwhp, which is a hell of alot different in the same car! Alot easier to tyre fry with near 300rwhp in a 32 gtst than 240ish thats for sure, 2nd gear tyre fryin is abit over-rated. Traction is much better trust me! Things like tyre choices/condition and suspension are going to influence wheel spin too don't forget

Hey peeps Decided to sell my car, so have no use for these bits, all whiteline gear is brand new. Arospeed Adjustable Cam Gears (suit rb20/25/26) - SOLD Whiteline front camber kit (KCA336) - $250 Whiteline rear camber kit (KCA347) - $125 Whiteline caster kit (KCA331) - $125 Whiteline subframe alignment (KCA349) - $100 Can take the whole lot of suspension for $500 ($100 off) otherwise prices aren't negotiable for individual items and don't include postage. I also have a heap of spare parts off my rb20 replaced due to my upgrades on the car, standard injectors, standard fuel pump, standard afm, standard piping, one rear hub, standard intake (from filter to turbo), some coils, a catch-can (with or without breather), standard stater motor and also a standard rb20 turbo with a bearing problem (whinges on anythin about 10psi). Feel free to call me on 0407476022 or reply on here on PM me! Thanks all

If you wanted to do burnouts and nothing else then maybe buy the HSV... lol Ive driven the Porsche Boxster S and all i can say is it has no balls what so ever. The above v8 would sh*t on it in a straight line(not in anything else). Brakes, pretty damn good, handling very good, interior is really nice and exterior they look fairly good but what i couldn't understand is driving a porsche and bein able to be chopped by a normal Ford/Holden v8. They are over-priced and under-powered in my opinion!

My car blows alittle bit of white smoke but this is due to a small leak in the oil seal on the turbo! Never did it before the turbo and i cbf takin it off to replace the seal just for a small bit of white smoke after you hammer it hard! Might not be that big of a problem, as has been said SK knows his stuff and blown head gasket is fairly simple to to detect

I disagree, i get no heat when i stick my hand in that area what so ever (tiny bit if you thrash the hell outta it off the IC pipe), the radiator heat runs behind that, it is where the factory cooler would sit and even has the cuts in the wheel arch behind it to keep airflowing through I have had no problems with water, and to be honest i find the temp of the day doesn't really change how the car drives like it used to sitting up near the motor. I used to get abit more lag or abit less power down low, now its much smoother n almost always the same. Induction noise is much much louder and it looks sh*t hot when you open the engine bay. I may even chuck it on the dyno and see if it makes any more power for a test! I wouldn't guess it would make much more, but maybe 5-10 rwhp max. It was more about the motor gettin heatsoaked in summer as i notice its startin to get hot and this has really helped. You will ALWAYS have ambient air blowin onto it even at 5kms an hour as its in a direct flow area rather than sittin around in an engine bay. Personally i think either will do the job just aslong as the pod has a good source of air flow and is blocked from heat, that thing under the headlight isn't really any good

Ive had the filter get abit wet from a rainy day and had no drama's. The induction noise is much louder, performance i wouldn't think i gained much as at the end of the day the air has to travel through the turbo then intercooler where it actually gets cooled, i did it more for piece of mind that the motor isn't gettin heat soaked when im just sittin there in summer!

Anythin above 15psi the bov will leak and not do its job! My changes are so much smoother with a decent bov + plumback section set up, mind you i do run 20psi through a bigger turbo which is producin alot more air-flow than the stocker would! If you are runnin 1+ bar id change it even on stock turbo...

Its abit more expensive but i never get any hot air into the turbo this way...

Ill post mine up later for ya too champ Its abit different and not the best for wet weather (although i havn't had any problems in the wet)

Sold

I have a blown 32 turbo, makes no diff when your gettin it hi-flowed anyway, pm me if u want it

i have all of it, pm me if you want to come pick it up champ.

Also interested

Well he obviously has NO idea really because to make that power with that lag is fkn stupid anyway, the weight differences between a R33 and R32 ARE noticeable, id know there is both cars sitting in my driveway, the 32 is much more nimble but the 33s motor means you don't notice it much in a straight line. The injector deal for $50 sounds incredibly cheap, if you can make em work then for your reasons i agree with what your doing. I have done most of the bolt on mods, turbo with gate, injectors, pump, cooler/zorst, boost controller etc etc Makes 300hp @ rears with full boost (20psi) by 3900rpm which is plenty fine for the street, to tune it i simply got the ecu rom'd and remapped! My mate has the EXACT same mods on his rb25, ie same turbo + supporting mods inc injectors etc and makes 324rwhp on about 18psi and full boost by 3100rpm... is it worth spendin 5k+ to get everything set up properly on an rb25 for 24rwhp more and 800rpm less lag? Yes it makes more torque down low but i can't justify the expense unless you are going for 400+ hp, then the rb20 is just no good and you should look at a built rb25 or rb26

Im not bagging you at all, just don't waste your money on those injectors, ull need a re-tune and they won't make any more power, ive seen rb20 injectors flow 280rwhp and you won't even make that with a standard rb25 turbo on 1bar ++ of boost... Save your money on the injectors For the amount ive paid for 300rwhp outta the rb20 i would have a pretty much standard rb25, so i disagree on it bein a waste of time but rb25 is an awsome upgrade in an r32 thats for sure!

You can't put 34 injectors in an rb20 unless they are GTR and why you'd bother if your gettin a stock r33/34 turbo i don't know... waste of time. For the boost issue, get yourself a decent actuator (HKS etc) with a 14psi spring and it will give the boost controller nothing to do Or even an rb25 one at 10psi and the boost controller should be able to make up and hold the extra 4psi no problems, if your tryin to make an average boost controller make the actuator do 100% more ie double what its supposed to of course you'll have some problems! Upgrading the actuator would be the easiest way to get what you want i think

Come'on peeps someones gotta ave one??? Prefer blue if possible

Bumpo

id like pictures anyway hahahaa

Hey peeps Basically im not looking to pay the $400+ new price tag for a Stealth FX bov. The $200-350ish range on the forums 2nd hand is much more appealing. Anyone have one of these for sale? The guy i had agreed to buy one off seems to of gone somewhere and i cant contact him lol Please reply here, PM me or email me on [email protected] Looking to purchase now Thanks all Jaz