jazza08

I have another set of these that were used for 200kms sitting in my room! Happy to sell for the same price, the ones in my room have been gapped to 0.8mm also. $75 posted anywhere in Aus

Don't put iridiums in your skylines peeps unless your content with stock turbo n not too much boost otherwise they can cause problems and mis-fire... platinums or copper plugs are the only way to go if you want some decent hp, i found that out after 2 sets of iridiums lol!

btw where do you buy nismo thermos from n approx how much are they?

Ok this is what i was talking about, taken from Perth street mag, even though its a v8 the principles of a cooler motor/parts should apply to all engines. "With new themostat in place, the engine typically runs 10 degrees cooler but still remains within the acceptable bounds for the standard PCM (above 70 degrees). The standard themo opens at 93deg and is fully open at 105deg. The new thermo starts to open at 80deg and is fully open by 87deg. As a result the enginer runs a higher ignition advance, normally between 5 to 7deg more than normal. At cruise rpm this additional timing is noticeable in the seat of the pants, giving snappier accel and throttle response. With the thermo fitted to a BA GT the peak power result at the wheels rose 3kW but the real story lies in the torque curve which was reaised across the majority of the rev range, with a peak gain of 100N at the wheels" This is where i read this and got the idea from! Nismo offer a lower temp thermostat for skylines, obviously Nissan must think that its some sort of gain?

Ive seen just under 400rwhp last (and still going) on a standard rb25 for quiet sometime! If the tune is right and you treat it properly your target is no problems for the motor, wether or not your turbo will do it you'll have to find out! As mentioned regular oil changes keep your motor happy hehe

Hey peeps, I found there to be alot of oil in the intercooler itself and the pipes... i was wondering what can cause this! I had my catch can set up incorrectly before and it seemed to flood nearly everything with oil as it had no breather lines so the pressure forced oil all over the place (boost controller line, turbo oil seal, exhaust and seems to be the intercooler aswell! Ive been told the best way to clean it is to use kerosene as it will disolve the oil and then just clean each and every pipe one by by and make sure they are dry before putting them back. Would the catch can incorrectly hooked up be the reason behind this? Obviously it seemed to happen when the catch can was incorrectly installed and the car was driven. Anyone got any tips on cleaning out the intercooler or is there a DIY site/thread on it? Thanks all, guess my saturday is pretty well booked out all mornin/arvo lol Jaz

Put your car on the dyno cold and expect things to blow up as they aren't at operating temp... ill go have a look abit later through some of the speed/hpi n any other mags i have to see where i read it coz i cant remember off the top of my head! 30 degree thermo's would obvioulsy create problems with the parts running too cold which they aren't suited for, however a few degree's lower i read wasnt such a bad thing. Who knows ill report back some findings i could be way off lol

Please pm me if you want info bro.

I think its called JR or JIC kit peeps. Its not a BN kit...

I did have blown gaskets but i do suspect its a bearing problem still! The car now has a GCG hi-flowed rb25 turbs on it. Thanks for the bump its still available if anyone wants it

I think 50 might be abit low, but by keeping core engine temps lower the parts operate at a lower temp and will last longer and perform better. Ill have a look later but what i saw was something along those lines! It wasnt a MAJOR drop in oil temp like 30 degrees like you mentioned tho dude, more like low-mid 70s i think! Im sure someone with abit more knowledge could input on this if they had a read...

Sorry my bad, thats water temp that sits just under 80 degrees not oil temp, oil temp is slightly higher as ud expect, sorry i got confused for a sec hehe If you don't agree with running oil slightly cooler being an advantage thats your opinion, the magazine i read obviously feels differently, personally i don't care either way lol!

Of course it sounds louder than the std skyline, what im trying to say is driving it around on the street its louder than you'd expect it to be! Or so i think after having mine fitted anyway lol

Just for reference the R33 gtst in the driveway sits at 79 degrees all day everyday regardless of stop/start or highway driving. It moves around 2-3 degrees when you give it some for a while... Is the rb20 different? Would of thought it'd be a good idea to get a thermostat and set the oil temp abit lower (say mid to low 70s) will make the engine run cooler and make abit more power too (or so i read in speed lol)

Well different ppl have diff opinions, if a cop hears it your 100% screwed for a defect! That video doesn't seem to show how loud it is, although its different with different cars/motors of course. I love a nice exhaust note but the screamer is abit much for me personally, ill have a flange put on it and plumb it back for street use and disconnect it if i go to the drags or track days or want some noise on the street occasionally, best of both worlds lol!

If you want noise get a screamer pipe!! To be honest im getting my external gate's (turbosmart 38mm on rb20) screamer pipe plumbed back into the exhaust, its just too loud for street use.... good for track days though. It doesn't increase spooling noise you only hear a screamer when the wastegate comes fully open on full boost.

He's not askin to get rid of it? More is this normal, yes flutter can be normal and many ppl think its fully sik, personally i just like it lol

I got a call today that said they did find a 1.3mm restrictor in the oil line... so unfortunatly its back to square one. There is some oil in the intercooler piping from when the catch can set up was without a breather which is being cleaned out now however that its been suggested once again its the turbo seal. Once the car is dyno tuned if its still smoking after a week or so i will get it taken off (for about the 3rd time!!!) and have the turbo pulled apart and replace the oil seal on it as they told me the turbo appears to look good from the outside but you can't know unless you open it up. I was so excited aswell lol

For those who have watched the thread, The turbo was taken off today and had no restrictor on the turbo's oil line so it was flooding the b/bearings with oil hints the smoke in the exhaust. So fingers crossed a restrictor on the turbo stops the oil smoke, will find out either tomorrow or monday

No doubt it could be but it will boost and get someone out of trouble, or more likely be great for a hi-flow job which is what i was going to do myself before i found one to buy instead!

I thought ud learnt John... god don't do that hahaha If the system has no breather as that catch can doesnt make sure its plumbed back into the intake or has a breather somewhere in the system!!

bashing the cas is not recommended unless you want ping hehehe

Just for reference here is pictures of the catch can, the smoke has nothing to do with this set up. I ran the car with the old set up and it produced more smoke, then ran it without anything on the head and it reduced smoke, with this in place its the same as with nothing on the head (ie no restrictions)! Plz not outlets are all blocked except lines to catch can which is why i needed a breather in the system

Compression is 150 even across all 6 cylinders as of 3 weeks ago. The old turbo had a problem with the bearing so yes thats why i changed it! As i said i had zero problems (smoke wise, bearing on old turbs was rather loud lol) before this turbo went on, the new catch can deals fine with ne blow by the engine may have. The turbo was bought from someone i trust and is very well known on the forums which is why im not convinced its somethin to do with the actual turbo itself, plus by looking at it and checking shaft play the turbo appears to be near new. I am having the oil lines looked at, the one to the turbo to check if it has a restriction piece in it and to make sure the oil return to the sump is not blocked and all is hooked up correctly, as i said the person who did it told me they knew what they were doing but now it appears they're abit iffy on some issues... it was probably installed incorrectly

Its nothing to do with the motor as it started when the new turbo was installed by a mate who im starting to think didn't know what he was doing... i asked about the oil restrictor in the turbo line and he wasn't too sure what i was talking about, maybe the turbos b/bearings are being flooded by oil! Will find it out tomorrow/friday when the turbo's taken off and the lines are checked. GCG quoted me around $550 for a new oil seal in the turbo, more money lol