HR32GTS 4DOOR

The ratios are different, the GTST diff has a longer ratio. Also the stock diff if a viscous diff which pretty much all of them are worn out and will just single peg all day long. you could shim it to lock it a bit more. there is a thread in the DIY section about it people have had good results

Location?

Usually when a battery has been completely flattened a few times, you won't be able to pull as many amps through it even if it has 12 or so volts. my old battery which was rooted wouldn't start the car at 12 volts the new one will start it at 10.

+1 when you try and start it do the terminals get really hot. take the terminals off the battery, you will probably find they are corroded on the inside if so clean them or get new ones.

yeah rota make wheels in pretty much any size and they are soooo cheap. my mate has grids on his ma61 supra with an NA 2j looks real nice

yeah its just opinion really, i don't think may people would notice anyway. what are the offsets on those rota grids? didn't think they looked that good on a 32, but now iv seen them i kinda wan't

I think that model Came with an RB25DE probs why you have the single pot sliders on the front

Love it looks great, but a bit funny with the flared out front and standard rear. you can get some wide body kit for the rear of these. someone on here is in the process of doing it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/398169-mohsens-wide-body-r32-sedan-buildsemi-restoration/

If You are looking at the blue plate in the engine bay that says 1998 that is how big your engine is, ie 1998cc or 2l ie RB20. I don't think there is any date on the car. well there isn't on mine.. just grab some callipers and rotors from a 33

Yeah you could probably get it to work.......... For about 10 min

And I thought an RB20DE was slow imagine an r32 with a CA18i apparently 67KW........

The main things really if you don't want to be defected are the visuals. If you keep your height at a reasonable level, don't have wheels that are too big. Just the simple things really and keep the noise at a minimum. Your best bet is trying not to get pulled over in the first place as most cops don't know what they are looking at and will just defect you for anything as they aren't mechanics. If you keep your engine bay looking stock, not too much chrome, braided oil lines etc that will help. that being said it is kind of hard to hide a big gt30 if you are after a bit more poke.

sorry was thinking of r32 rb25 head which didn't have vct

Mine isn't a whirring noise is more like a crunch crunch crunch I still haven't bothered to check what this actually is yet. Been meaning to take the box off to check

Not sure about the crank but I would assume they are. The block may be different depending if it is a series 2 or 1 r33 block since the 33 S1 didn't have vct the oil galley will be different to the 34 head

Honestly then if you have that money to spend don't buy a skyline, get something like an integra or something like that, Much better value for money. I made the mistake of buying a non turbz r32 and its slow...

Hey Dude just letting you know just posting a problem like with with little description is a way to just get flamed. More info would be good if you would like help but if you aren't too good with cars just take it to a mechanic.

Are you on your Ps?

Yeah If you want more power there is no point going to an RB26 just go 25det will make pretty much same power and will be much much cheeper

Yeah my rb20 will get to 100 in second even with the short NA diff. Ur spedo may be out if your not getting too 100

Wait I just read your post again. You don't have a stock ecu which limits at 6900 on an rb25. The limit on the e-manage is probably set at 6900

Yes

Is the warning light on all the time? At first mine just flashed when the HICAS F*****d up then stayed on but flashed about twice a second.

Hey all, As you all know HICAS is a pain in the ass when it comes to reliability. The other night I was driving my R32 through the hills when I had a whole mess of HICAS issues. I had very heavy steering, It would steer the arse out unexpectedly and bang and jolt around corners. So I thought woo time to get a lock bar. Then later on i noticed the voltage meter on my dash was showing lower than usual at about 10 volts and yes my alternator was stuffed. So i went down to Upull it, got my self an alternator off an RB30 and bolted it on and works well. So I drove her around the block to see what the 4WS would do.... Nothing, no warning light no heavy steering and no unexpected arse movement. This got me thinking after reeding a few threads on what other people are experiencing with their problems, Maybe some peoples problems are caused by a bad alternator. OR bad power getting to the solenoids or whatever actuates the HICAS. So maybe if your HICAS is playing up. Have a look at the power and ground connections for your HICAS this may be where your problem lies. Hope this helps someone.

Have A look through here. Its pretty over the top but it gives you a dam good idea of what to look for. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/