HR32GTS 4DOOR

It doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me. More like lifter noise. Probably since the car has been sitting for so long the lifters are gummed up and there isn't the right amount of oil in the hydraulic lifters. You can take them out, take them appart and clean them then re assemble with some oil in them. there is a thread on here in the DIY section of how to do it.

So what would be the difference between that new 21U highflow and an SS1PU in the stock compressor housing like Birds? Same compressor wheel is it not? the results look almost identical. just this new one makes a bit more top end

Tao what do you think this would make on 98 internally gated? Around the 280kw mark?

Yeah Im fairly sure they do just the twin plate has a softer pedal feel. Although you aren't really supposed to ride them since the plates will wear unevenly. Also depends on what kind of friction plate cause you can get sprung or solid centre, cushioned or solid puk, organic or ceramic etc

I have a solid ceramic twin plate in my 32 daily, It's not not as bad as people say, but it is a pain to drive in car parks... the ones with slopes and what not. Out in the twisties it's much better than my old organic clutch. but this is probably due to the flywheel being like 3 kg lighter If I were to choose again I would go one of those NPC organic single plates that everyone raves about.

It's most likely the fact that you have non standard injectors with a factory ECU

Ok so the injectors are most likely bigger than factory. If you can afford it, get a tuneable ecu and take it to a good tuner, they should be able to sort it out. Cheaper option would be to grab some standard injectors and swap them out. Can you pull one injector out and tell us the numbers on it and the colour? Or take a photo.

No it shouldn't be there, but I don't know if it would make your motor run bad or not. This is for the injector plugs. http://www.jdmlegion.com/Projects/R32%20Skyline%20GTSt/RB25-conversion-Stage-16---Wiring-the-injectors-491fdbae-99d1-4448-a9cb-1b785054da59

Yeah get yourself an rb25 injector loom, cut off the plugs and solder them onto the rb20 loom. then with the VCT run a wire from pin 113 to the ground of the VCT solenoid (the ecu grounds the solenoid) then run a wire from a switched +12V source to the other pin. Make sure you test which pin on the solenoid is ground and power or it wont work. The plug for the VCT is the same used on an N15 pulsar with VCT so they are pretty easy to find. All other plugs SHOULD be the same unless someone has tampered with it. Also two wires on the ecu need to be swapped around. Pin 112 and 114 need to be swapped. These are the injector trigger for 4 and 6.

Yeah what I ment

If you really want to replace the loom. Get another RB20 loom, switch over the injector pugs and put in another wire and plug for the VCT. Alos use the rb20 ignighter. All other plugs are the same if its a S1 engine.

you can also use rb25 s1 coilpacks they are the same. its just easiest to use the rb20 loom cause everything for the body is already done. you also need to get the injector plugs for the 25 and cut the old ones off the 20 loom and solder the 25 ones on cause they are different.

Use Rb20 harness igniter and coilpacks, then wire up an extra wire for the VCT. series 2 ecu should work, but if it doesn't just grab a series 1 OR The much much better solution. Use Rb20det ecu with nistune and get it tuned.

OK thanks heaps scotty

Ok so my brother and I were going to do a turbo conversion to his swift GTI, Pretty much bought everything for it but ended up deciding not to do it. But anyway we now have this turbo and all we were told that it is a Garrett T28 but not anything more. It came off another swift GTI with a manifold, got it really cheap. So can anyone tell me what turbo this is?

Are you sure it turbo to start with mate? It has 4 stud hubs and those rear rotors look a bit small, but its hard to tell from the pic. Do me a favor and have a look behind the plenum next to the AAC valve and tell me if there is a nipple for a vacuum line if it doesn't it was probably never turbo.

May be fuel pump related. I had a problem where it was running lean and the power would be on off on off like the waves you have described. Just a suggestion

i find they are pretty useless under any car that isn't a 4wd, but yeah they are cheep as from supercheep

Yeah 350hp can be done with an rb30et................

Yeah I orded them the day they came on sale so I didn't have to wait

Yeah I just got them online, good service too answered all my questions http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-braided-brake-lines-front-rear-set-intro-price.html

Even better, bigger rotors

Whole Car. They are made by HEL then branded as GKtech

Could get 32mm rotors to fit, but then may as well just buy a big brake kit anyway

GKtech Do braided lines for $119 I have a set they are well made and adr approved. And as said before they do the calliper spacers for $99