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HR32GTS 4DOOR

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Everything posted by HR32GTS 4DOOR

  1. I thought school holidays weren't for a few weeks.
  2. Also back to the point you made about it being a bit laggy. I had a problem once where the stock waste gate actuator was not preloaded enough making it open slightly when not on boost. Made a ticking noise similar to what you were describing. Had me stumped for ages, changed all the gaskets around the turbo and still the ticking noise. Finally checked the actuator, noticed it wasn't preloaded properly, took it off, bent it a little and bam fixed my lag and that mysterious ticking noise .
  3. You obviously have no idea about how an engine works. You cram more boost into an engine but if your timing retarded as R&R makes it, you will make no power. Come back here when you actually have some input into this thread.
  4. 9 pound on a stock ecu series 1 r33 can cause it to go R&R stock is 7 above about 4000 rpm. With a small boost leak it can cause it to R&R and going by what he is saying. Sounds bad and goes nowhere it seems like this is the case. Aslo he will make more power with the lower boost as the ecu will actually run some decent timing as aposed to more boost where it will just pull it all and feel like a piece of play dough.
  5. Have one of these on mine with just a high flow cat and no other mufflers. Even with it open is not really that loud would prefer it louder. With it closed its really quiet, but is down on a lot of power.
  6. I'm not sure but I would assume when you valve is powered (ie when the ecu thinks its cold enough to need it) the valve would be open, so when its appart it would be closed as its not powered. The needing throttle to start can be caused by a few things like vacuum leaks, fuel pump not priming properly etc. If it needs throttle to start when the car is warm then this is not your problem.
  7. Dude come on Leave the guy alone. He is willing to try something different and put it up here for us to see. Im keeping my opinions on this to myself and im actually keen to see what this does as its different to the usual rb25 with a gt3076 etc we get on here.
  8. Haha sweet good to hear man
  9. I have an rb25 starter on my rb25 with an rb20 gearbox so Id say they are interchangeable since its the gearbox that it bolts to not the engine and the sandwich plate for an rb20 box is the same for a 25 box. Also they look identical. FYI I have a starter off a 1993 ford festiva in the shed, the bolt pattern and the gear is the same just the solenoid is in a different spot.
  10. Ok if it idles at the same rpm there is either something wrong with the valve or it isn't being switched by the ecu (more so a wiring problem) unfortunately I don't know how to test the valve to see if it works. Could check if there is continuity between ecu out and the plug for the valve (will have to look up a pin out diagram for the ecu to find which pin) this will tell you if it is a wiring problem or something else. Could also try another valve, I doubt it would be very expensive from a wrecker
  11. It could be, but its pretty simple so it's not all that likely wiring could be stuffed also. when you start your car for the first time does the idle sit a little higher than when warm like at 1500-2000 rpm? or does it just idle at same rpm as when warm?
  12. Ahhk, this is the problem I had. Fixed it by cleaning this. As you can see it had a lot of oil in it.
  13. Its under the plenum and above the oil filter. Idle would not really be changed if you didn't have one unless it's just been removed and the vacuum lines were just left there.
  14. Sounds like It may be running lean, can be caused by a few things. For example when I bought my curent engine, there was a mix up with the plenums put on it and I got an NA one with NA injectors in it. Surprisingly the Motor still ran smooth (was surprised it ran at all) so took me ages to find what my lack of power was caused by. But anyway that caused my turbo to glow red with just moderate load. So morral to the story, check everything related to the fuelling system. P.S. surprisingly I don't have 6 cracked pistons from the running lean from the balls injectors
  15. Have you checked your timing? Could be that it is heaps retarded and blowing out the burning fuel through the turbo
  16. It's like you were waiting to say that, Also that's an awesome result be keen to see how it lasts in the long run though
  17. This It fixes EVERYTHING!!!
  18. Looking at your previous results, to me it pointed out intake restriction (as in anything in the tract before the engine) with your boost being increased without detonation, but not making anymore power. that inlet cam being that far out looks like what is causing that restriction. Looks like you will be enjoying the fruit to come.
  19. It's good you are sorting your setup out Hanaldo, Hopefully you can crank some more power out of that turbo.
  20. Check you tightened up the bottom timing belt cover properly, otherwise it will bang on the balancer and sound like you did something horribly wrong. I did this a while ago and it sounded similar to this
  21. That is a 20 box, spedo sender is in the wrong spot to be a 25. On a 25 box the bottom of the bell housing doesn't curve up like the one in your photo, it sits flat.
  22. Not entirely true, You can rebuild it but is a lot of work for minimal gain. If your curious have a look at post 154 in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/164288-diydiff-shimming-for-r33-gtst/page-8?hl=%20shim But as above don't shim it, it's dumb and doesn't actually make the LSD part of the diff better. it just puts more pressure on the spider gears in he middle causing it to lock. If its a street car, just grab yourself an r34 Helical. if skids get a mechanical.
  23. So do they do this just to embarras themselves?
  24. Daily Drive my HCR32 with a twin plate and coilovers. Don't really care on how much fuel it uses. I wouldn't want to drive anything else.
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