Bobjones

Rob Bliss...I will leave my comments there... Jack Beedhams at Redcliffe is the only place I will get my car done these days... Otherwise CES make an excellent dump/front pipe and have other high quality (and of course the cost comes with it) systems.

Not a good one... I will be doing the 12km...entering with Suncorp as the missus works for them... Work may be entering a team (Pitcher Partners...free plug) but have you ever seen a bunch of FIT accountants.... :headbang:

mechanical boost is more accruate and responsive as despite the tube being at a distance, the line has a constant pressure. Whereas the electronic measures at intervals and then transmits the data from the sensor to the guage itself. Some electronic ones are good, however I cannot justify $300-$400 for an electronic boost gauge compared to a mechanical when it does the same job. For other uses I would go electronic, such as oil pressure (sometimes it can be beneficial for a mechanical as well in some applications), water temp, oil temp as these do not move in a huge hurry...

Spotted a YELLOW R33 series 2 at Hardley Normal Aspley thursday night...parked of course Plate ???84. I was in the Fasta Pasta having dinner as I did not want to go via Aspley as I am now back to the line the only car...too many tools racing on Gympie Road...

Most gauges in domestic cars should be electric, therefore reducing the risk of exposure to unwanted stuff like hot oil... Most performance cars in the states and drag racing use mechanical, with such items as fuel mounted externally under ANDRA regs etc. The best responsive gauges I have found are mechancial especially with regard to boost. I have always run mechancial in other cars but external mounted, otherwise run full sweep electric (I like Autometre sorry). Most Jap ones are electric for the reason that they install them inside the ****pit!!!

Shane, I think I spotted you the other week...along Beams road can't remember when. There is also a series 1 white that parks at Zillmere station. No one has spotted me on the Northside, I am bloody Aspley I know white is common...I am soooo gonna drive around heaps now.... Neill

Don't use heat risitant Sikaflex...use the regular one otherwise it will be a bitch to remove without melting your front bar... Also another idea that I have used before is wire fly screen from Bunnings, the plastic stuff would most likely not be strong enough!!!!

Damn you lookin old...Nivea for Men might help!! Happy Birthday Bro!!!

Spotted last night an R31 with RB20 conversion...along Gympie road sounded nice and spoke to the guy as he was heading to Maccas Aspley (I live near there I was on my way home from indoor cricket). Good to see the R31's making a coomeback!!! Damn I need to stop running stock boost...

I am out tonight sorry, sick as a dog...well as sick as a dog woul dbe if he was sick...

Yep... And after the rebuild and still running in I was using it (after running in oil) Motul Turbolight as it is semi. Now cause of the moly rings I go full synthetic, Pennzoil as I get it almost for free and its the shiz, better than when I used Mobil 1 etc. Oh and use the search this subject has the most threads on it I reckon :soap:

IMACULA8 how long ago was this set sent to you... I have only seen PAR sets in a WRX and not PPG, so I will ask around some more, but the ones we have used in skylines and the sets in silvias have been faultless. the WRX box also allows easy install of dog enagagement compared to other boxes due to the design...even though the output and input shafts are weaker than a druggos arm...

Before rebuild, I would start it wait for some oil pressure let it idle for about 30 seconds, stuff the neighbours and drive like nanna off boost until the temp gauge reached normal and oil pressure dropped down to where is normally is warm, thus allowing the box to warm up also. After the rebuild: Now with moly rings etc and tight clearances and the high oil pressure, I let it warm up in the garage for atleast 2min then drive like nanna always watching oil pressure and temp as these are the best indicators when its cold.

I have used both the ppg and the PAR gearsets, the PPG full set in a skyline and the PAR 1-4 gear set in a WRX both with dog engagement. I think people are looking at two very different aspect here, whether the engagement is harsh or the gears are standing up to the power. Harsh changes will result in breakages, there is always an upper limit of anything, dog engagement allows flat enaggement with less risk of give and additional strain on the gear sets. The gear set themselves then also comes into question, including the metallergical treatment that they have under gone and the design of the teeth. Everything is a compromise, and you need to get a box for the application, a dog box will be driveable on the street, but not really in traffic... Also the Series 3 GTR boxes are still prone to breakage in third, I have seen one do it after hearing that the series 1 it replaced was weak. The fact is the gear changes were the killer and as it was still using synchomesh this was placing additional strain on the box and gear sets. I would also like to hear the reason behind saying PPG are crap...

Mate smick looking car...but your price is very high, no offense but have a look around the rest of the forum. Good luck with the sale

Hmmm is that complianced seems a bit low... If not then I would be checking it with somewhere that knows skylines, RACQ are like blind people in the dark at times...

Is it a clunking or wearing sound. I would pull the belt off and inspect the idler and tensioner, they should spin freely with no sound. I am unsure from not hearing it so I am stabbing in the dark...though with a little torch

Nice, just need the blue wheel nuts and it would be smokin!!!

CT18 is fine as long as you wash and rinse I use Gold Class cause I am a snob.... And with the TXT new Meguirs polish I use Wash and wax and the whale has never been shinier...

I have had one bad experience with Motul Turbolight, but that was used as running in oil for chome moly rings...so horses for courses. Standard rings turbolight should be excellent...I still am not a fan of Penrite... Using Pennzoil full synth at the moment...absolutely perfect...

Are these all delivery or can we pick up a R33 GTST for $940???

Yeah I have heaps of video but no computer with firewire... I sat in the granstand on the other side most of the night as I was constantly walking back down into the line to talk to people...and warm up...

Nice work...pitty you got the only run where Cam missed the start...hahahaha That silvia was damn quick...makes me want to gte a loan...but no... I was actually parked beside all the evo guys... WRXKILLA what were you in???

So SK your saying that at idle the standard FPR is running 36-38psi.... EDIT: on a RB25det????

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