Bobjones

Dan, you weren't rude bro...I HAVE NFI...there is no much contradicting info re turbo's that I am just over it...I know what I want. I want a turbo that will have good response for street and occassional strip, probably a 0.63 rear housing, internal gate, bolt on no changes to any lines as they are all new... Car is a R33GTST, rebuilt...only want to run a MAX of 14psi when i get an PFC and front mount and larger fuel pump. So that means T3 flange, I have seen good results from the HKS 2830 from some people, but the efficiency curve according to my calcs in better suited to an RB20, where as the 2835 is better suited to the 25... What is 400-450 in kw...I don't want a monster that comes on boost hard I want something reasonably responsive which aint gonna happen with a 1.06 rear housing...

Thats cool, Have tools, will travel.... Seems R34 GTR's are easy to come by, hell I have 5...but I have to live in them cause I have a huge debt I also have no life cause I actually run around claiming I own everything, did you know I own one side of the Storey Bridge, I will sell it to you for 1 R34 GTR in silver... I have not heard this much :bullshit: for a long time.... :tool:

No F@#%in Idea I was looking at the horsepowerinabox one with the internal gate I am REALLY after a direct bolt on similar to the HKS2835 I think...or maybe the HKS2830 (I may have these wrong as I have NFI...)

Where in QLD are you...????

I am going to Capalaba.................

I also want to know is the GT30 with internal gate 0.63 comparable to say a HKS2830...or do I have NFI...

10 pages!!!

I even think the editor was taking the piss out of him... I would have expected something similar in Street Commodores, another fantastic publication...not Some people's been edumacated good they had...

Is the 040 intank??? Its pretty easy to install, I have read the DIY for the 981 is this similar???

If I have the car back i will attempt to get there.,..if work does not keep me like usual...worked 16 hours yesterdayt...just over it...

W.W. Shockabsorbers Geebung, done alot of work for me in the past. Bit past where you are though and Strut Reconditioners i have heard do a good job also.

Where is Brisbane are you...Aspley by any chance...

I have seen someone at the server put two bottles of oil into his Audi, I just could not sit there and let him try and start it... He felt like suck a dick, but hey better than chewing a motor cause of stupidity...

Get it machined, The fly wheel is designed at a certain weight for counterbalance in the engine...it will rev better but you will loose torque as the reciprocating mass has declined. Oh and I only have the HD full organic clutch, I do drive in traffic so any heavier and I think it would be a bitch...

Ring around... Try Quickfit at Yerongpilly, ask for Jason, and tel him I sent you. Unsure how cheap he can get 20's though...

Methanol is used in drag set-ups as it will makes ya eyes water from the fumes. The fact is that most methanol set-ups on road cars are not 100% methanol (read this is for the strip only not for street use). Basically Methanol lowers the intake temps and increases ron levels so more boost can be run without the problems of detonation. The system has to be set up correctly and not just "added to the tank". Its not an octane booster so don't even think of it like that. Most people run an additional injector or two from a fuel cell, separate lines and pump. I have seen a couple set up on N/A and turbo cars and have run effectively assisting in bring down 1/4 times and boosting top end power. At the end of the day unless you have experience in fitting a system the cost will exceed the benefit. Stick to VP race fuels as listed above if you need increased octane. To reduce inlet temops the CO2 systems work extremely well, I prefer to use only externally on intercoolers as this has worked the best from what I have seen from properly tuned cars!!

Hmmm I like the stock looking exhaust manifold... Stock bottom end I have HIGH doubts...especially the boost level through that turbo would see Mr Rings packing up and going home...not to mention Mr Piston melting like the wicked witch of the west... Trick cooler though, not cheap so the budget would not be small...

Matt, So it was you that blew up at the start line last night. Sorry to here bro, but I would be going forgies. I wish I did now, however I am not making the line a fast car...its a whale at that is the way it will stay... Cheers Neill

Is that Evo 8 GTR_Cam... I would have come but have to work out at Warwick...

If you cannot manage 5 I will make an effort seeing as I am now back in Brisbane. The missus will be coming so no room for Navigators sorry Will post a pic soon...its a white R33

Sorry I checked mine last night and they are in fact Heat rating 6 not 5... Obviously the 5 would be too hot...

Tool award...WTF...that was pure INDIVIDUALISM!!! Nice work!!

I use Quickfit at Yerongpilly... They do the 4, they also do alot of Club work incl scrutineering and suspension set up so they know what they are doing, well the 1 bloke I let do it does!!! Ask for Jason if that is your side of town. I drive from Aspley to there to get it done...

Dammit wrong state... Free Bump as this is a decent price

Sprung centres provide additional give when applying the clutch the take up point. They are used to distribute the frictional force and thus reduce the vibration through the clutch pedal. Solid centres should be used for performance applications such as V8 supercars. However, most do not have a 600hp car. Therefore, the additional clamping pressure from the pressure plate more effectively uses the existing frictional properties of the sprung centre clutch without the additional forces that would occur with a solid centre. In addition, the solid centre clutches also place addtional strain on driveline compenents, mainly input shafts to gearboxes and alternatively output. Therefore, in a street driven vehicle having a solid centre will not only make it extremely hard to drive but also place additional and unwanted strain on gearboxes that are not designed to take a solid centre. Therefore, a compromise, as in all things, is upgraded friction material such as kevlar etc etc , sprung centres and additional clamping pressure from pressure plates. Hope that answers the question... Cheers Neill