Bobjones

I will be there!!! Not in my car though, will be crewing for Evo Cam in the Evo VIII. Obviously will be there both days!!!

Bellmouth or Split...PICS would help...

Now I have seen everything... Wonder what times it would run....

As I said it depends on the build of the motor, R31Nismoid I am sure you did that on the advise of the builder?? I have also run engines in on the dyno, but usually with two oil changes atleast, assists the process. I have also seen 15K plus builds go up in smoke on a dyno run in.... There are alot of factors that need to be considered, by merely saying hey mine was done on the dyno and its fine after 10,000km's does not prove a damn thing...sorry

Alright this is what my engine builder told me and is also what my dad and his mates (one who is 3 time National Pro Stock champ who built his own engines) has confirmed. Note: This will vary from engine to engine, ring type to ring type and application to application. Engine: RB25DET, Chrome-Moly rings and forged pistons (Venolia) unsure of exact clearances but pretty tight as on cold it will generate 4-6kgm2 below 3000rpm when cold on 5-40 Pennzoil full syn. Run in procedure: First 100km, use proper full mineral run in oil, vary revs keep loads up do not exceed 3,000rpm, ie keep it off boost as this helps the bed in and reduces the change of bore glaze. During this time I also disconnected the turbo timer just in case. The hone on the bores was also reasonably rough/deep compared to stock hone as we were using the moly rings. Drop oil and change filter First 100-1000km's repeat process above. 1001km - 3000km - this step is not really necessary, however depending on clearances, tollerances ring squish etc may be helpful in an exellent bed in and further reduces the chance of blow buy and poor piston bore bedding. Drop oil and change filter. Another option is semi-synthetic, something like Motul 4100 turbolight 10-40 would be ideal if using standard rings or non-moly ones. 3000km, at this time I went for a semi-synthetic at this stage however, if you have done this between the 1001 and 3000km range then go to a full synthetic or maintain the usual oil changes on the semi. Depends on the engine builder's recommendations. 3001-5000km, changed to full synthetic Pennzoil 5-40 (I think it may be 5-50) upon recommendation from the engine builder. All cylinders have compression within a range of 5-7psi difference depending on gauge, perfectly bedded in and runs like an absolute dream!! The additional point I want to make is... IF YOU ENGINE BUILDER CANNOT RECOMMEND A RUN IN PROCESS, FIND ANOTHER ENGINE BUILDER!!!!!!! On another note, street engines have always been run in a longer process than a race engine, these or often done on the dyno but involve just as many oil changes!!!

the Gaydah has just gone WAAAAAAAAAYYYY off the scale...

Ummmm yeah good luck with that one...

Pred I got some Redline ones years ago for a 350 Chev, still have one lying around maybe, I will check the size, you can cut them down for different needs... they had them at Autobarn (old Bumpa-T-Bumpa...yes I am old) Will check tonight and get back to you!!!

Yep sounds like syncros, get them done as this is the cause of many a gearbox failure, as when the syncros go they normally take gear teeth with them, especially at full noise!!! I would also check your Slave Cylinder which is located on the side of the gearbox, looks like a lever arm and a small rubber boot.

I am guessing this is an estimate only, for fitment, tuning and service, you are supplying how much of the above???

Apparently I have nothing... EDIT: No now I have a turbo...yay for me

My series 2 also all 4 light up!!!!

I have had a similar problem in that I lost charge with the interior light on...ended up being a bad earth at the battery well so it seems at this stage....

I had my engine rebuilt at Peninsula Mechanical Repairs. They have normal mechanical, but also an inhouse engine rebuilder and diff and gearbox specialist. They also do alot of 4wD work as well. They have built quite a few engines including RB30ET's etc etc They do send some work to a specialist machinist if required who comes highly recommended by alot of the guys in Redcliffe. Name escapes me at the moment.

Was it white and the plates were not personalised....

Also... www.onlineconversion.com Enjoy!!!!!

Awesome plugs... Make sure you get the right heat rating for your location and application. I am running 5's from memory, gapped to 1.1 as I only have stock boost...

OMG... I will have to definitely see this in action when its done!!! good luck with it John and will see it out and about, Cam has talked it up soo much...!!! Now it will exceed all expectations!!!

Happy Birthday Erin... 21 I presume!!!!!!!!!!

Use the standard torque settings, they are made stronger but do not require additional tension. You can confirm this with ARP themselves.

Was this car at Willowbank a couple of weeks ago???

Spotted Maroon Series 1 driving through the complex at Aspley early this morning....

Qld 500.....

All this torque of injectors blah blah... Have you checked the oil sender unit as this seems to be part of the problems. As for the rattling it could by the hydraulic lifters. Use caution when using an oil flush as I have seen some cause oil starvation and piston rings collapsing. Run a full sythetic, Motul Turbolight is a semi, I would recommend using this for the flush only, then go for something like the Pennzoil Full Synthetic or Mobil 1 or even Shell Helix. Also after the flush run another lot of oil through it before putting the final through. Sounds pedantic but may save a rebuild. The only reason for the gauge not ready when warm may be that when the oil warms up it gets thinner and for some reason the pressure sensor is not reading properly. this is a common problem I would be getting an after market gauge preferably mechanical to test the actual pressure, not these these are dangerous and should not be installed in cabin and thus only be used under the bonnet in the garage or where ever you are working.

I might consider it, but ONO to $1,250 is a bit much considering new they are less from Nengun...