Bobjones

Yeah was a good night... I did not run due to too many people running high pressure in low profile tyres and wondering why it was slippery... Cam did a 13.15 at about 107 I think My engine builder did one run as he drove from Redcliffe and was annoyed at the time to line up...its always busy the meet after Winternats.. His quiet as a mouse XD ute did 11.87...unsure of trap speed.

I will be there, white R33, plates 911 G** Also will be with and driving a Black Evo 8. I posted in the events but no one responded

Search in the QLD section this has been covered...over and over and over and over

There is a book and a list, call the safety cert place and they should be able to help you out

Hell yeah... what else is in the junk box...

This stuff is DAMN good... I bought some while in the states a couple of months ago, and now I won't use anything else...not even my Gold Class... To get such a gloss and relfection from a white (as is mine) and like the 32 above, it really does take a good wax... I actually rate this above Autoglym and all those expensive ones...

Picture may help...

I might rock up...pitty about the no dyno...

Quickfit Yerongpilly, ask for Jason Tell him Neill sent you!!!

:werd:

Pics of the dump pipe back zorst. Also will you separate dump/front/cat...???

Glad to see its sorted Gordo, Seems I will be getting the 040 instead of the Walbro... I think it may be an idea to send them a letter and pictures of the offending pump, cause that really is inexcuseable!!!

Well put and more truth than I have seen in a while.

Scan the book and send it!!! As for the LCD, I thought these were legal as long as they were not as bright as the factory gauges, as in obstructing view

Point taken, I have never run AFM's before...always a MAP, this is of course with iron big blocks with blowers and turbos I just don't like the fact that something else has to be plumbed in along the line. I was merely asking for peoples opinions. The other fact is that the AFM is not COMPLETELY accurate otherwise with excellent tuning the PFC should eliminate backfiring. Its good to hear all these cars running low numbers with AFM's...however that is all good and well but that proves nothing. They would run the same power and numbers with a properly tuned MAP sensor ECU... And last time I checked, I never wanted to run a 9...or a 10...or even an 11. Alot of the time ECU choice is a decision made taking into consideration many factors, and pulling ya pud with figures about other cars has SFA to do with the question at hand. Also tuning the af maps more precisely with an AFM isntead of a MAP is like comparing apples with oranges. That is a load of you know what in its self. Find a good tuner and the results will speak for themselves. Good luck to the bloke who has the start up idle problem, I am sure Matty at PITS will be able to help. Was talking to a good performance friend who was with him the other day and he said that its a relatively easy fix.

Possible causes may be dirty AAC valve, AFM may have crap on it... Do a quick search on Stalling and it will come up. This problem is often caused by running overly oiled pod filters or general dirt and dust.

Would anyone recommend these over the PFC...??? I want to get rid of the AFM, and have heard mixed responses about the wolf which uses a MAF... Also the idle problem is common, as someone mentioned Mercury or Matty at PITS will be able to help

I was actually wondering how the majic cat worked...it just looked like mesh...and now I know... Was going to get a catco when money came up...and now I definitely will

Search is your friend... Tick for Charlies, Chapman and Chapman

Will be on the lookout, I see that people are posting this on other forums which is good to see!!! Hope it all works out and the castrate the bastards!!!

pic to neill.reilly at pitcherqld.com.au thanks

I get the car back Friday so next week I should be out...fingers crossed

Is the front pipe from the dump to the cat or the turbo to the cat?? More pictures of the above??

I was about to say a collapsed ring in #3, then I read that you had it back up... Unsure how you can "unstick" a sticky valve when jiggling the ignitor...but hey. As for the low compression test, yes a stuck open valve WILL give a lower compression reading, a leak down test shoudl then be done to find out why. As for why it now has compression of 120psi, I have NFI, sometimes they stick but I would be running a flush through it, RB20's have hydraulic lifters and as such it might be the cause the the stuck valve...I am only assuming cause I cannot hear it nor look at it...

Probably...I know mine has in the last 6 months...then again that was partly due to me not being in the country... And besides, it takes AGES to get all the dirt off from under the car