fastjetjockey

Naww man, the beans have been spilled! Expect police! Hahaha. Well... It is a Krispy Kreme, so we could expect police even if we hadn't divulged meet time and location... lol.

If it's your coilpacks that are buggered, you should try and replace those yourself. Coilpack replacement is not a standard activity during your 100 000 km service. So to put it in at a workshop and have them figure out the the problem and to source a replacement is going to cost you a motsa! As a general rule, try and put your car into a shop in as good a condition as possible, to save you money. I'm getting my 100 000k service done on my 34 next week. I'm doing the fluids, filters and plugs myself. But letting them do the seals, bearings and belts. You get your car back faster and save more money that way. All the while learning more about that thing you love... Have a look in the for sale section for some OEM coilpacks. I remember seeing some a couple of days ago for a 34 that were going for $200! Failing that, another good rule to follow with imports is if something breaks, replace it with aftermarket. So read up on one of the countless threads about Yellow Jackets vs Splitfire and make a decision. You'll come of much better further down the track!

I'm interested too! Got nothing to do tonight, just meandering around my place in Camperdown. Keep this thread up to date, I'll be watching...

Good luck finding a Mighty Boy. Pretty rare in fact. Not too many for sale every time my mates and I have checked. We wanted one for a project car too. They look schmick when they're all JDMed up!

You, two mates, 3x 2-way radios, 3x car bras and a decent camera. What an adventure!! I drove my ex-girlfriend back home to Broome at the end of last year from Brisbane; It was a pretty amazing drive! Took 5 easy days,on some pretty questionable roads, in an '07 Mazda 3. If you've got the time to spare, I would recommend seeing the guts of your country. The other option was to put the car on a train, I think it worked out to around ~$800. I think if you can find a way, the train is going to be the cheapest option. Even if you get it to Sydney then drive it north.

He's either honest. Or sitting in someone elses 33 with is iPhone out. Both are funny.

I was gonna say, what if your competitors' V8 had any amount of money sunk into it? It's a pretty steep uphill battle!

I put the back of my Silvia into a gutter once. It basically just bent control arms. I shopped around for second hand parts, rebushed them and it wasn't too expensive. I would advise you to jack your car up, take the wheels off and just have a close-up inspection at what could be bent. Also check where they join the chassis, that there are no tears in the metal. If you're not confident or can't see anything bent, take it to a pro.

I used to race some pretty worked Peugeots both on the track and in motorkhana/khanacross. Them being a front wheel drive was never an issue. In fact, on the skidpan I preferred it; Skull dragging through a handbraked turn is wicked fun! Let's face it kids. It's the end of an era. With pollies forcing global warming down our necks, and the impending depletion of fossil fuels. Makers pulling out of motorsport, investing R&D into future fuel sources and reducing our footprint on the planet through the cars that they make. Car manufacturers are of course going to proceed to create cars that the majority of us will buy; A-B Ecoboxes. As sad as it is to say, we're the last couple of generations to be driving anything of the sort. 100 years from now they'll all be trying to figure out how to add coils to their electric motors, or stabilise their hydrogen injection : / or something... lol. But it's not all doom and gloom. Think yourself lucky to have been born in this tiny window that all of this stuff has come about. Keep having fun in your cars and remember that they aren't making any more, so try not to wrap yours around a pole so that J Lenno and Roger Farah's offspring have something to add to their inherited collections...Lucky pricks.

Fuel pump fuse - pull it. You can also put a switch in your fuel pump circuit, in your boot. Keep it hidden and it should do the trick.

Drove 18kms of Parramatta Rd alongside a home spray jobbed black 32 gtst, with a night kids sticker on quarter window. Hai2u!

Hey guys, I've got something that's bothering me somewhat. I wouldn't say it's an issue or a problem, but I would just like to know what it could be. Whenever I engage first gear after coming to a stop or whilst rolling, shifting to neutral and then back into first there's a slight clunk when I settle the shifter into the first position, before I release the clutch. Hard or soft shifts, it's always there. I can replicate the sound over and over by just clutching in, shifting to neutral and releasing the clutch, then clutching in and shifting into first. It will only do it when I clutch to neutral and back again, not if I hold the clutch in and repeatedly shift in and out of first. Doesn't do it with any other gear. It's no so much a sound as it is a vibration or single clunk that you can feel through the body of the car. Any thoughts guys? Thicker oil? lol I have to admit, gearboxes are the field in which I am least knowledgable...

^ I'd rather my oil have all the black crap than the contacting surfaces inside my motor. What oil did you use before your change? I'm about to start my maintenance regime on my newly acquired, fairly stock 34Gt-t. Kicking off with it's 100k service. I'm thinking of using Royal Purple 10w40 for my first stint, after a flush with a cheapy. But I have also been considering Motul 4100. Decisions decisions! My mate ran RP in his 34 and had nothing but good things to say, plus you read the odd thing here and there. Not too many negative things are said about RP, if at all. But if anyone wants to suggest to me otherwise, go ahead!

My critique on episode 2 would be that there was no commentary, or aural information being delivered in the latter half of the video. Even just some basic stats and info pulled off the net for those certain events would be bangin! I work in Film and TV, and if you guys ever head up to Brisbane (even Sydney or Melbourne) and want some lighting or gripping hookups for a shoot, I'd be glad to come on board; It's rather boring working on the odd freeby job for film students when it's not relevant to my interests lol Keep pumping it out guys, it's fun to watch! And it's great to see you're having fun with it too!

Put your dicky little Ronald Macdonald wheel on, and take your busted one to a tyre place. They will most likely be able to plug it if it's a clean hole. Worlds cheaper than purchasing 2 new tyres. Like around 25 bucks.

I bought my R34 GTT with a JJR 3" dump pipe, high flow cat and a Fujitsubo (JASMA approved) 3" exhaust. The car sounds very quiet on idle, but when you put your foot down it sounds like a bit of a jet fighter, lol. I'm very happy with it. I don't like putting around down and sounding like it's got a 4" straight through with a punched out cat. But I do like being able to sound like I'm driving a mildly-modded performance street car when I want to. Comparing it to my mates R34 which had a standard dump pipe, but high-flow cat and an HKS 3" exhaust. That car was much louder than mine. We did pull out all the baffling though. But it was really throaty beforehand... In my old S13 I had a Kakimoto exhaust. That made my car sound like an absolute pig when you got up it! It idled pretty loud though. They seem to be pretty screamy exhausts from my experience. So, based on my experience, I'd go a Fujitsubo for performing driveability, HKS for a bit more roar and throaty idle, and Kakimoto for what sounds like a straight-though jet-exhaust!

I'd imagine that the same rule applies to strut braces as applies to wheels and hubs... It's the hubs on a car that support the cars weight, not the studs. The torque of the lug nuts/bolts hold the wheel to the hub and it's actually friction that keeps the wheels in place. The old Physics 101 - Normal force times the coefficient of friction. The normal force is the force applied by the torque of the bolts/lugs and the coefficient of friction is characteristic of the two mating surfaces.. Studs are not designed for any lateral force to be applied to them - they tend to bend or snap. So, apply this to your situation with the strut brace, and how it mates to the top of the strut towers. Having any height between the two mating surfaces, as determined by the washers in your case, cannot be too good a thing. It just adds leverage to the system. Possibly resulting in flex in the studs on your coilovers/struts, or depending on the tensile of said studs weakening or breakage! I would try to find a way to get the strut brace plate as close to the strut tower as possible. Now, for an anecdote - I bought a strut brace for my S13 way back when. It didn't fit, just as you describe in your case. However, I just tightened the shit outta it until it warped the plate down to the strut tower. Happy days.

Mystery, most kits come with the little 8 or 10mm o-rings to put in the gallery joins between the two halves. So if you get a kit that has them, you should pull em apart - 100% fresh! With regard to torqueing them up, I just tightened until it 'felt right' haha. No dramas. But if you want, check that workshop manual stated above. They'll be in there. I got my kits off of a seller on nissansilvia.com, I'll dig him up when I get home to my PC for you.

Mate it's fairly simple. I rebuilt a pair of fronts for my S13. Ordered the rubbers kit online, and stuck it all in between the two freshly-painted halves. Just remember how you take it apart, and take care not to damage your o-rings or scuff/scratch your pistons.

Battery seems dead mate. Check fluid levels etc do you battery maintenance! If plates are exposed, it's time for a new battery. Since alternators don't usually just go overnight, my money's on the battery. But run a multimeter over the whole lot. The ticking could very well be your injectors themselves. So nothing to worry about there. I remember driving Brisbane to Melbourne for work. S13 was running healthy-as. Was there for a week, and I went to wash it at a car wash on a busy Saturday. Turned the car off to wait in the queue. It wouldn't start again! No warning whatsoever! Battery just spat out 3 or 4 lame cranks before throwing in the towel.

Yeah mate, chuck a meter across your alternator and see what voltage it's putting out. Should be between 13 and 15 volts for normal charge. If it's below that it could be your whole alternator (brushes etc) or just your voltage stabilizer (which is like a $70 part).

Spotted a silver 33 (GTR, or just kitted. Couldn't tell through shoddy rear-vision mirrors) on Parramatta Rd outside RPA. Hi!

If I need something bigger than my cut-down-office-water-cooler-bottle oil drip tray, then I've had too much to drink and shouldn't be under a car. Wanna know what keeps my garage floor clean? Skill. lol

He played chicken with his gate remote. Gay-assed rims too BTW.

Hey mate. It's my understanding that when you have a larger gap, and an ignition source that is able to strongly bridge that gap, your fuel will burn much more efficiently and completely. Whether or not the car is able to guage this, and reduce the amout of fuel needed to supply that same amount of power I don't know. But you will be burning your fuel better, and less will be ejected from the combustion chamber unburnt.