Trust33

hahaha.Lmao@ commission. All i wanted to know was what colour it was and then all you had to say was go and get it done at his shop and rave on about how good of a job he does and what a great price he gives. Honestly i dont think that some1 who runs their own business will give u a commission.They would only give you a discount for the work in return for the publicity you would give the company.

I think you should ask jolinator.He knows a bloke from the uk,i think,that has an absolute shit load of complete videos. If you cant get jolinator i will look for the guy myself for you.I think i have his email address at home. Im at tafe so i cant really look it up for you yet.But atm jolinator is your best bet.

Hks gt-rs,Hks gt2535,Hks 2530,garrett 2835 internal gate 400hp,hi-flow stock turbo. Look at this. rb25 all dyno results go here and have a look at some of the most frequently asked questions in forced induction. here Please feel free to jump in for me.

What colour blue have you used.it looks great btw.

the search button is your friend

Would drilling and tapping slightly thicker cradle bolts make the rb30 cradle any stronger? the tourqe that is avaliable from the rb30/26 as compared to the rb26 motor is that you will make torque and power earlier on in the rev range so there is no need for it to rev as hard as a rb26. And the rb25 has less capacity and is a step down from the rb26/30 or rb26 all together in terms of the power that is possible with the stock crank and cradle support. I am still a neewbie when it comes building motors,so take it easy.

I think the steel rusts unless it is treated with heat paint prior to using heat tape. I belive the cheap alternative to this was the 1800 degree/c paint.Red will make it spool up quicker

adj fpr $150. Walbro pump $170.Or there abouts. chipped ecu $200 Boost controller $200 $720 max. Then go 4 a intercooler and a dump pipe.

adj fpr $150. Walbro pump $170.Or there abouts. chipped ecu $300-$350 Boost controller $200 $820-$870 max. Then go 4 a intercooler and a dump pipe.

Shop arround and u will see.

You should got to an install by wados HERE it may help you give a few ideas about an install.You will be able to see the intercoolers mounting brackets on the bottom quite easily but the top is harder to see.But as predator said it is easy to build a bracket yo self.. His type of install is entirely based on a budget diy build,and,is a great guide to an install. HTH..

bleed valve set at 10 psi,pod filter/high flow pannel filter with cold air feed if you can, walbro pump,perhaps a rising rate regulator,re tuned ecu.that should set u back $1000 dollars. Then i would go to free up your stock dump pipe with a aftermarket item,intercooler kits are next to nothing these days,and then a better boost controller turbo smart etc. You should save your pennies and get a intercooler with the upgrade and a turbosmart 2 stage boost controller.Less than another $1000 and you could run more boost. HTH..

So is it a carbon cleaner???

Thats fully sick.where do i sign for a ride.

As cubes said.:werd: For a mobile fix it guy to come out to your house you to get it out i think it is about $30-$40 a stud.But you also have to take off all of the surrounding components so it is easy for him to work on you r car.But you will still probably have to pay for labour.I.e Take off your turbo,manifold and anything eles that is assosiated with being a hinderence for access to the affected stud/studs. I paid $275 for 3 studs in the head and 3 in the exhaust pipe flange. Imo buy yourself an ''easy out'' drill bit and get it out yourself. Here is the phone number of the guy who did mine. THREAD AND WELD MOBILE SERVICE:0418-246-531 I forgot to add that also included a tapping of new studs aswell.

So what will be your next car then?

That to me makes sence.The earth wire on the z32 being a 12v ground.And the air signal ground on the s2.

I have done some tests with the help of cubes.And i have determined that,In order of the afm flow,that wire number; 1.12v 2.Air signal ground 3.signal wire @ 1.4v What we have to find out is it safe to run the Z32's 12v feed to the ground and why.Can i get some help from others on this question please. Thnx cubes & zoom

Yeah sometims the tracktor sound indicates a blown exhaust gasket. You say it is in peices/falling to bits.

Wont know untill some1 can get a pic of the r33 s2 afm 3 pin out wire colours. email me at [email protected]

I have the same queries.I have sent cubes a pm to see if i can get an answer. Untill i read the thread by cubes i was undr the impression that i had a s1 motor. Luky for me i didnt go and get any parts for a s1 and realise that they would not fit. What are the identifying traits of a s1 engine compared to a series 2?

So you recon a second handbrake could be intergrated into the car totally dissmissing the cable handbrake when i dont need it. Are the drifters of the forum experiencing any problems with their cable handbrake.B4,during and after drifting? I.e.Excesive stretch,not enuf bite as what you need.

I to would like to know.Then can a mod throw it in the how to section as this is a regularly asked qustion.

Woot.

Keep us updated.