Trust33

Come on.LOL.GIAR(giv it a rest)..There is no resrtriction on the type of car able to run in drift comp's,So you are never going to loose the bogan ute's from the sport period

:werd: Just for the record,i think,the australian drift scene would be much better if we all got behind it instead of bagging it,and especially it's drivers.Respect their skiil and commitment. There are pontiac gto's in d1 usa mixing it up with the best jap cars,australia should be no different. The only reason that japan doesnt have any cars like ours are because they dont have holden/gm in their country.And im sure given the chance some1 would take the opportunity to drift one in d1 japan.

free bump these are tight air filters,they allow massive ammounts of air flow because of the mesh mouth at the front.

I found some video of the viva garage r32 doing some drift go to this link to the download page. download page right click on the links and save as. To find it just look for my post in the thread page.

Heya i found some aussie drift on ls1 forums,dont know what comp it's from.But it includes the cappa drift ute with robbie bolger driving vs viva garage r32 gts-t nice,a rotor doing a burnout,some in car footage in the cappa ute vs r32.And also silvia vs ute. Does anyone know what shop owns the silvia? cappa ute in car http://members.austarmetro.com.au/~ls1edit...robbieincar.mpg cappa ute vs silvia drift car http://members.austarmetro.com.au/~ls1edit...germarkrun1.mpg cappa ute vs silvia drift car http://members.austarmetro.com.au/~ls1edit...germarkrun2.mpg cappa ute vs viva garage r32 gts-t www.gobbie.net/ls1/capaute1.wmv cappa ute vs viva garage r32 gts-t www.gobbie.net/ls1/capaute2.wmv rota burnout www.gobbie.net/ls1/Rotorburn.wmv cappa ute in car http://members.austarmetro.com.au/~ls1edit.../final1run1.mpg cappa ute in car http://members.austarmetro.com.au/~ls1edit.../final1run2.mpg

Hi mate you have pm.

Could be ball joints.jack up the front again and see if there if any free motion/rattlilng by shaking the wheels with a side to side up and down motion.And if the movement feels like it is more than what should be it could be a problem. I know when i took my suzuki swift gti when i had i back in the day to have it blue slipped,I was knocked back on ball joints.

Ive seen what looked like r33 stockies or s-14 on a mazda eunos.And have seen the same thing on a commo at the shops.

Yeah there is one i found in brizvegas at banzai motorsport www.banzaimotorsports.com.au but it doesnt have a price listed for it.

Would they road register a tube frame front end car.

Hey wasnt there a new law regarding ebay and how they had to help their customers who have been ripped off by giving them a pay out up to a maximum of $1500.I heard about it on the news but i diddnt listen to the whole story.

happy happy joy joy.cams would really light up the rears. So how muchh have you allready spent on the motor?This question is optional.

This thread is only going to turn out like the last 1.

Because there is too much power for a manual gearbox to transplant to the ground,usually,in the lower gears.So a stall converter is added to give the car maximum power where it is most needed.And the other plus would be no changing of the gears just smooth glide.Meaning not as much time lost shifting and loosing revs etc...

Yeah make sure that the rack is securely bolted down. Get it up on a hoist where you can have a clearer look at it. Get back to us with your info as well.

Internal. So ultimate internal gated turbo for rb25 and 250rwkw.kewl.

Oh no get a pager alarm that'l give you a warning next time...Just lucky tha t it was insured.

ahh then no i cant say anything not that i could anyway

So what roy is saying could be right and loosing that sort of rpm would cause you to loose power in the next gear,and would have more of a detrimental affect on power than i thought. But when does peak tourqe come in?Usually it is b4 the peak rwkw.Though that close to the peak rwkw you may be way out of your peak tourqe band anyway.

So the z32 made allot of difference with tuning it.kewl

Hmm if you look at my dyno in this thread you will notice,when compareing your old dyno 185rwkw,that from 80kph is even,100kph is 10kw more to me,120kph is 30kw more to me,140kph is even,160kph is even.The red line was the old 160rwkw power figure. I was running stock turbo,pfc,stock cast dump with cat back zorst,Badly slipping clutch,gtr pump,adj fpr,small front mount and an ebc also had 17's with 255 rears and even tried stock 16's with 235's rears and it made no difference in times or top end. When i took it to eastern creek back in the day it ran a 14.7 boosted with stock computer @ 160rwkw. Then went back with the current tune 182.0rwkw and pulled a 14.2 @ 99mph with a dodgey slipping clutch that i had to baby off the line to get it going It was like i was taking off at the lights on the street. What im getting at is the pfc made a hell of a difference to my time.A 1/2 a second is a great improvement.now coupled with a clutch to boot i am confident of a mid to high 13 sec time slip @100+mph. Get a pfc and see the difference that it makes to your current tune.As you can see in my dyno there is an average of 15-20rwkw throughout the entire before and after. Though seen as though u allready have 198atw it may not be such a dramatic difference in power.Try to keep the revs in the power band.And when you feel the power drop off it means that you have left the power band so you hsould have shifted a few hundred rpms earlier. May i suggest what ppl have been saying to do is soften up the rear end for the drag strip and let it squat more off the line. In addition i would shift earlier than 6800rpm as you can see that in your dyno the power drops at 6800rpm try about 6300-400rpm. And for launches Your dyno graph shows a big jump in power from 5000-5400rpm try to aim a launch a bit earlier than 5000rpm so when it takes off you dont go directly into uncontrolable wheelspin.So when you do make it to that peak in your launch your momentum/inertia will have been to great for the power to overrun you with wheelspin and should give you a nice power change into second.

Hmm if you look at my dyno in this thread you will notice,when compareing your old dyno 185rwkw,that from 80kph is even,100kph is 10kw more to me,120kph is 30kw more to me,140kph is even,160kph is even.The red line was the old 160rwkw power figure. I was running stock turbo,pfc,stock cast dump with cat back zorst,Badly slipping clutch,gtr pump,adj fpr,small front mount and an ebc also had 17's with 255 rears and even tried stock 16's with 235's rears and it made no difference in times or top end. When i took it to eastern creek back in the day it ran a 14.7 boosted with stock computer @ 160rwkw. Then went back with the current tune 182.0rwkw and pulled a 14.2 @ 99mph with a dodgey slipping clutch that i had to baby off the line to get it going It was like i was taking off at the lights on the street. What im getting at is the pfc made a hell of a difference to my time.A 1/2 a second is a great improvement.now coupled with a clutch to boot i am confident of a mid to high 13 sec time slip @100+mph. Get a pfc and see the difference that it makes to your current tune.As you can see in my dyno there is an average of 15-20rwkw throughout the entire before and after. Though seen as though u allready have 198atw it may not be such a dramatic difference in power.Try to keep the revs in the power band.And when you feel the power drop off it means that you have left the power band so you hsould have shifted a few hundred rpms earlier. May i suggest what ppl have been saying to do is soften up the rear end for the drag strip and let it squat more off the line.

Are there any links for us to follow so we can read about it?

Gl.

Whats the cost of an na r34 anyway.